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bi-xenon lamp fitment?

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Old 06-19-2011 | 06:40 PM
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bi-xenon lamp fitment?

is fitment a word?

i got a cheap ebay bi-xenon hid kit. did dry run outside light housing and it worked flawlessly. unfortunately i could not fit the new bulb. the fairing stay is too close to the back of the bulb.

does anyone have experience with this? is there a trick to it?
Old 06-19-2011 | 07:07 PM
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going to have to take the body off.its the only way to safely put it in.
becarefull with this light,for its not designed for the light out put,the light wil be broken up.could blind other people coming towards you.
Old 06-19-2011 | 07:45 PM
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i won't be taking the fairing off, that is too much work!
Old 06-19-2011 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by finepooch
i won't be taking the fairing off, that is too much work!
Really? it's not hard to remove the fairing. I can have mine off in under 10 mins without really trying.
Old 06-19-2011 | 09:05 PM
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its the only way to get it in,the upper stay is in the way.the oem bulb will go in and out no problem.
you wont even have to take the body all the way off.just got to unbolt and move the body forward a inch or so.
Old 06-19-2011 | 11:04 PM
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how is this done ? taking the body off. as i am going to change the bulb my self.

what color hid are you going with? im debating on 8,000k or a blueish 10,000k
Old 06-20-2011 | 06:46 PM
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maybe i will check into this fairing removal, movement.

i got a bi-xenon 4300k. it seems to work well.

will the fairing fit back in? is the back of the bi-xenon bulb too long? will it bump into the fairing stay?

Last edited by finepooch; 06-20-2011 at 06:56 PM.
Old 06-20-2011 | 07:04 PM
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it should go back with plenty of room,i dont see why not.once its back it will just be snug fit.
Old 06-20-2011 | 07:29 PM
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ok, i will check this out further when i get a chance.
Old 06-20-2011 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ckoscin
how is this done ? taking the body off. as i am going to change the bulb my self.

what color hid are you going with? im debating on 8,000k or a blueish 10,000k
Take the mirrors off, remove the 4 allen head fasteners on the sides and then remove the 2 plastic rivets on the underside. Slide the fairing forward a touch and remove the turn signal wires, the headlight & running light connectors and off it comes
Old 06-20-2011 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ckoscin
how is this done ? taking the body off. as i am going to change the bulb my self.

what color hid are you going with? im debating on 8,000k or a blueish 10,000k
Just throwing it out there... do a little research on this site on the effectiveness of putting an HID bulb in a stock housing... may not be the direction that you want to go.
Old 06-21-2011 | 10:04 AM
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Take pics of where you place your ballast. I was staring at my cieling thinking about this last night. Fairings come off very easily as described above. Getting them on alone is a tiny bit more challenging. I have not yet seen a shawk with the lower plastic clips in. on my bike the stay and the hole on the fairings are not even close to being aligned. I would like to see a properly connected one.
Old 06-21-2011 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by geekonamotorcycle
Take pics of where you place your ballast. I was staring at my cieling thinking about this last night. Fairings come off very easily as described above. Getting them on alone is a tiny bit more challenging. I have not yet seen a shawk with the lower plastic clips in. on my bike the stay and the hole on the fairings are not even close to being aligned. I would like to see a properly connected one.
I'll go take pictures when I have a chance..... mine are in even with relocated radiators

If they are not in the lower part of the fairing can flap around at speed.
Old 06-21-2011 | 04:35 PM
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I stuck my ballast in the fake intake and mounted it with screws and silicone. I figure the extra air should help keep everything cool. If your to lazy to pop the fairing off don't install a bi-xenon because you obviously aren't willing to do it correctly and safely.
Old 06-21-2011 | 05:53 PM
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your arm twisting motivated me to take a second look. fairing removal was even easier than you describe. i am embarassed that i stated "too much work" above. see, i listen.

i undid the mirrors, bolts, and rivets. i only had to slide the fairing ahead a couple inches to make the bulb fit. i did not even have to unplug any wires. piece of cake.

i temporarily fit the bulb and wired it up. it worked very well. i hit the high beam switch and up the beam went. high, low. high, low. high, low. there is a very distinct difference between the low and high. i did that a few times and i was happy. i disconnected the temp wiring and buttoned the fairing back up.

hopefully my neighbour will help me finish the job when he gets home from out of town. i'll get him to splice in extentions so the hot lead will reach the battery. he's fussy so i hope he'll arrange the ballast, relay, and the wiring. i briefly looked inside the fairing and saw a few potential spaces to hide everything.
Old 06-23-2011 | 10:20 AM
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HEllo all, like others have said..... just changing the light will not get you the lighting you want. the look maybe but for oncoming traffic it is all broken up. GO the liitle bit more expensive route and buy the whole kit. MAny have used this site and if you call or e mail them what you need it for they know exactly what you need..... www.theretrofitsource.com i ordered mine a while back and other have used this set up and you will get the look you want with the correct lighting without (in most cases) blinding the other drivers!

Last edited by lucas_chanel; 06-23-2011 at 10:22 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 06-23-2011 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
Really? it's not hard to remove the fairing. I can have mine off in under 10 mins without really trying.

it is 10 bolts simple
Old 06-26-2011 | 05:58 PM
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it is done. it works like a charm. i have got to say that i am impressed with how easy the install is and how well the kit works.

i mounted the ballast and relay in the fake ram air tunnelon the right side. everything fit nicely, and snug enough that it should not rattle around.
Attached Thumbnails bi-xenon lamp fitment?-img00375-20110626-2034-resize.jpg   bi-xenon lamp fitment?-img00374-20110626-2034-resize.jpg   bi-xenon lamp fitment?-img00372-20110626-2030-resize.jpg   bi-xenon lamp fitment?-img00371-20110626-2030-resize.jpg   bi-xenon lamp fitment?-img00367-20110626-1951-resize.jpg  

Old 06-26-2011 | 06:02 PM
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i took video too but can it be uploaded to the forum?
Attached Thumbnails bi-xenon lamp fitment?-img00364-20110626-1921-resize.jpg   bi-xenon lamp fitment?-img00363-20110626-1921-resize.jpg   bi-xenon lamp fitment?-img00368-20110626-2026-resize.jpg  
Old 06-27-2011 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by finepooch
it is done. it works like a charm. i have got to say that i am impressed with how easy the install is and how well the kit works.

i mounted the ballast and relay in the fake ram air tunnelon the right side. everything fit nicely, and snug enough that it should not rattle around.
pretty cool. the beast runs hot, though.

-f
Old 06-28-2011 | 05:18 PM
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if beast means the bulb, i read that hids operate at a lower temp, but i dunno. if my headlight housing starts smoking i will let you know
Old 06-28-2011 | 05:42 PM
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you should take a picture of it on low beam so we can see the cut off. and you are going to re aim it correctly right.
Old 06-29-2011 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by spladle160
you should take a picture of it on low beam so we can see the cut off. and you are going to re aim it correctly right.
post #18, pics 2 and 4 are low beam.

i may re-aim if cars flash me at night. there may be no need to because the light source is supposed to be designed to be in the same position as the filament in the halogens. i know some of you are intent that the beam pattern is thrown off with hids in a halogen assembly but it was not with my rc51, and may not be on the hawk. one other blurring(pun) factor is that i lowered the bike for my lady, and that may have thrown the aim off. so, we'll never know for sure.
Old 06-29-2011 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by finepooch
if beast means the bulb, i read that hids operate at a lower temp, but i dunno. if my headlight housing starts smoking i will let you know
by beast, i meant the bike... specifically the motor. that 'fake ram-air' on the right that you're blocking is not a fake ram-air. it is part of the cooling system. it helps route air onto the right radiator. i'd expect your bike will run hotter at speed because of this. just an observation. i still really like your ultra-bright light. and you gotta put the ballast somewhere.

--fred
Old 06-29-2011 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by fred
by beast, i meant the bike... specifically the motor. that 'fake ram-air' on the right that you're blocking is not a fake ram-air. it is part of the cooling system. it helps route air onto the right radiator. i'd expect your bike will run hotter at speed because of this. just an observation. i still really like your ultra-bright light. and you gotta put the ballast somewhere.

--fred
ok, gotcha! i will watch the temp gauge. thanks for the tip.
Old 06-29-2011 | 08:00 PM
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it doesnt look that bad at all,it doesnt seem to be broken up like others i have seen.
which kit did you buy off of ebay,if you have a link,post it.im curious which one this is.
Old 06-29-2011 | 08:12 PM
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the seller was as-gold
treated me pretty good
Old 07-02-2011 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by spladle160
and you are going to re aim it correctly right.
last night i was on the lonesome tch(trans canada highway) #2 here in nb. pitch back and nothing else on the road. high beam was only lighting up the tops of the trees along side the highway. low beam lit the road better. it is a divided highway so no oncoming traffic, but the cars i passed did not flash me. i have lowered the light and i plan to check it again tonight.

Originally Posted by fred
by beast, i meant the bike... specifically the motor. that 'fake ram-air' on the right that you're blocking is not a fake ram-air. it is part of the cooling system. it helps route air onto the right radiator. i'd expect your bike will run hotter at speed because of this. just an observation. i still really like your ultra-bright light. and you gotta put the ballast somewhere.

--fred
i watched the temp gauge during my 700km run yesterday. the needle was always in the colder section of the gauge. the air temp got up to 24c, and i was doing sustained high speed, i mean 200kmh+, for long distances. the only test i did not come across is stop and go traffic, which is when temps get out of hand. i did take a look a that tunnel. it doesn't bring air into the rad, it goes above the rad. the air for the rad comes from inside the fairing.
Old 07-02-2011 | 09:32 PM
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update, i pointed the housing properly. my bets are that i will not get the "turn off your high beams" flash. time will tell.
Old 07-02-2011 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by finepooch
last night i was on the lonesome tch(trans canada highway) #2 here in nb. pitch back and nothing else on the road. high beam was only lighting up the tops of the trees along side the highway. low beam lit the road better. it is a divided highway so no oncoming traffic, but the cars i passed did not flash me. i have lowered the light and i plan to check it again tonight.

<snip> the only test i did not come across is stop and go traffic, which is when temps get out of hand. i did take a look a that tunnel. it doesn't bring air into the rad, it goes above the rad. the air for the rad comes from inside the fairing.
you're right. the tunnel passes over the top of the radiator. why so much plastic? maybe just for structural stiffness of cowl.... your ballast doesn't adversely affect cooling at speed. i was wrong about that.

stop and go traffic in hot weather will give any VTR fan a workout.

--fred



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