2 wire running lights?
#1
2 wire running lights?
I just ordered a set of hotbodies led flush mounts from ebay (for a r1 but some legos and MEK will make a perfect fit and it needs paint anyway) and was wondering if anyone knows of a way to make them running lights as well as turn signals. Also will they definetely need a resistor? anyone have any warnings before I go expirementing with much enthusiasm and little experience?
#2
In order to have signals AND running light you need 3 wires. The resistor for the LED lights keep it from blinking really fast. Be careful when installing them and make sure you know which wire is which, or you'll melt them.
#4
I used Hotbodies taillight power converter. It's normally used to wire in the turn signals to the taillight. I used it the same way... just on the front of the bike. I tucked it under the gauge cluster and zip tied it into place, totally invisible. If Hotbodies doesn't sell them anymore you can use any trailer power convert found in the towing section of any AutoZone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Reese
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...randName=Reese
Last edited by inderocker; 11-11-2009 at 04:12 PM.
#5
Something else - D is diode. If you are lucky backwards gets you nothing. Unlucky and backwards fries em.
#6
yeha i remember popping diodes in electrical engineering classes years ago, was a great time until you ran out, lol.
again going back many years with leds, but how is it that an led is able to produce a different colored light? different voltage?
again going back many years with leds, but how is it that an led is able to produce a different colored light? different voltage?
#7
The basic answer is that they are made differently on the inside, not really a voltage thing. The technical answer is that different photon frequencies produce different colors.
#8
I'd recommend looking up a thread with the wiring schematic posted by hawkrider. (I'd post it but I'm using my phone) Or.... You could bypass that and smoke a set of perfectly new led's like I did.
#9
I wired my 2 wire LEDs for both running and turn. You need a couple resistors in series and a diode to keep your turn signal from becoming hazard flashers. Here is a diagram of what I did. The problem is the LEDs I used are 3 volters, so the value of the resistors would be different than what you would need.
#10
http://www.purdyelectronics.com/pdf/AND2451.pdf
#15
I came up with a few more questions. will more ohms lead to fewer lumens? what's keeping the running light power from keeping the turn signal indicator on the dash on all the time? why not move the other diode to before the connection of the ruuning and turn wires? and what would happen if you used a resistor with a higher watt rating? will they heat up more or are they just capable of dissipating more heat?
#16
Yes, in your case, you could skip the resistor for the turn signal all together to get the full intensity. Since your kit is most likely set for 12 volts, where mine was a 3 volt LED.
Electricity follows the path of least resistance, but if you want, you could add a diode, especially if you take the turn signal resistor out entirely.
You could do that.
The higher watt resistors can dissipate heat better. I tried a one watt resistor for kicks and it got hot reeeaaal quick. 10 watt works well for me.
You will probably want to play with different resistor values for the running lights. Try a couple between 5 and 20 ohm to see what looks good.
what's keeping the running light power from keeping the turn signal indicator on the dash on all the time?
why not move the other diode to before the connection of the ruuning and turn wires?
and what would happen if you used a resistor with a higher watt rating? will they heat up more or are they just capable of dissipating more heat?
You will probably want to play with different resistor values for the running lights. Try a couple between 5 and 20 ohm to see what looks good.
#17
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