My cafe build round II the CX
05-28-2010, 02:44 PM
#152
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lol, thanks for that tweety.
I did insulate it some, I will keep my eye on temps, the exhaust gas disperses quickly so hopefully temps will stay down. It has an aluminum shroud with an 1/8 air gap then a half in thick piece of rubber and a small piece of carpet pad before it hits the battery. Think it will be enough?
I did insulate it some, I will keep my eye on temps, the exhaust gas disperses quickly so hopefully temps will stay down. It has an aluminum shroud with an 1/8 air gap then a half in thick piece of rubber and a small piece of carpet pad before it hits the battery. Think it will be enough?
05-28-2010, 03:19 PM
#153
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Superstock
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Truthfully yes. Do I think it has a safety factor honda would accept.... um, no. But your right It's going to get a ton of airflow so as long as it's not sitting right on the aluminum it should be fine.
06-03-2010, 03:14 PM
#154
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Help please
Been having a tuning nightmare. I have been messing around with jetting. Mind you I know my way around but I am stuck so I am looking for ideas.
The problem:
Low to mid range under acceleration falls flat if I open it up to quickly. If I go slow it will barely rev all the way to redline. These carbs are CV style with the metal slides "VB" designation (Never have liked the design)
What I have tried (Stock Mains are 110 main and 78 secondary)
Mains 115 secondary 78 stock needle height (also with 3 washers)
Mains 115 secondary 85 stock needle height (also with three washers)
Mains 120 secondary 90 stock needle
Mains 125 secondary 94 stock needle
Mains 130 secondary 94 stock needle
Mains 132.5 secondary 94 stock needle (also with 3 washers)
The results. Same issue across the boards but plug fouling was occurring with all mains except for the 115's although I failed to check the 120's. The bike runs the best with the first list of setting above but the problem is still there. It baffles me because I am getting awful close to stock jetting but I have very high flow exhaust and filters. So now I have to decide if it really is jetting or not another issue somewhere. I have tested for vac leaks and have adjusted the valves to spec. Spark plugs clean but I haven't verified they are the right ones. Tips anyone?
The problem:
Low to mid range under acceleration falls flat if I open it up to quickly. If I go slow it will barely rev all the way to redline. These carbs are CV style with the metal slides "VB" designation (Never have liked the design)
What I have tried (Stock Mains are 110 main and 78 secondary)
Mains 115 secondary 78 stock needle height (also with 3 washers)
Mains 115 secondary 85 stock needle height (also with three washers)
Mains 120 secondary 90 stock needle
Mains 125 secondary 94 stock needle
Mains 130 secondary 94 stock needle
Mains 132.5 secondary 94 stock needle (also with 3 washers)
The results. Same issue across the boards but plug fouling was occurring with all mains except for the 115's although I failed to check the 120's. The bike runs the best with the first list of setting above but the problem is still there. It baffles me because I am getting awful close to stock jetting but I have very high flow exhaust and filters. So now I have to decide if it really is jetting or not another issue somewhere. I have tested for vac leaks and have adjusted the valves to spec. Spark plugs clean but I haven't verified they are the right ones. Tips anyone?
06-03-2010, 03:44 PM
#155
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MotoGP
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It may be blasphemy.. but you could weld a washer in the exhaust before the catalytic converter to create some backpressure. (try plugging it partially with something first to see if that helps)
06-03-2010, 03:49 PM
#156
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I have heard of that being done and will try it, but I am not convinced the problem is that. It was doing this when I first bought the bike and I thought it was just dirty carbs. That was when is still was stock. Thanks though I will try it tomorrow and let you know if it does anything.
I also left out that the carbs have been synced.
06-03-2010, 06:46 PM
#157
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Although I've seen the same set-up with K&Ns on many I-4s, I wonder if you're losing flow with your filters, due to negative air pressure. Is the problem there even at low road speeds, under 20mph roll-on, 1st gear from a dead stop? If so, then it's not the filters.
06-03-2010, 07:07 PM
#158
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could you be having a spark problem. It sounds like it exist no matter where you are at, with no chance of getting to redline and fouling of plugs. Points to a weak/retarded ignition (or CV problems?). I guess the thing that tips me off is the light throttle, no redline.
06-03-2010, 07:24 PM
#159
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well it isn't looking good I have been doing reading up and it looks like CDI go like R/r's on superhawks. So buying a used one cost $100 and it would be like buying a used superhawk R/r not finned. Judging by what has been said about symptoms that is what it is looking like. After I thought about it some after work I realized it feel very much like it is dropping a cylinder. My superhawk did that once and it felt the same. I should have realized the feeling sooner. It could still be coils I will test them tomorrow. There also may be a CDI test I can perform. I will research more. A little depressed right now.
06-03-2010, 08:06 PM
#160
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new one here?: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...CX500-CDI-UNIT
06-04-2010, 07:08 AM
#162
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new one here?: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...CX500-CDI-UNIT
There is a company ignitech that I am trying to get into a group buy on the cx forum but I may be too late.
06-04-2010, 10:28 AM
#164
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Okay, a couple comments here, Corn:
- Paint the wheels. Stock they look godawfully bland. You need color, even at this stage. (my opinion)
- The pod filters, looks like the ones I bought off ebay and didn't work for me either. Emgo, right? Be careful of the internal flange where the filter goes on. I don't know much about the carbs on your bike. You have no pics of the mouths of the carbs without the pods. The Mikuni MIK II's on the my Yamaha have air jets at the mouth of the intakes. The cheapo Emgo filters partially or wholly covered some of those holes and it didn't run for ****. I think the slides couldn't open. Took a while to find a set of correct K&Ns for it but now she runs like a champ!
- Carbon fiber look vinyl for the seat, an air gun stapler with the shortest staples you can find, a hair dryer. This is easier than you think. Just stretch, pull, staple, repeat.
Looks great so far. You did an amazing job on the upper triple. Bet that took some time.
- Paint the wheels. Stock they look godawfully bland. You need color, even at this stage. (my opinion)
- The pod filters, looks like the ones I bought off ebay and didn't work for me either. Emgo, right? Be careful of the internal flange where the filter goes on. I don't know much about the carbs on your bike. You have no pics of the mouths of the carbs without the pods. The Mikuni MIK II's on the my Yamaha have air jets at the mouth of the intakes. The cheapo Emgo filters partially or wholly covered some of those holes and it didn't run for ****. I think the slides couldn't open. Took a while to find a set of correct K&Ns for it but now she runs like a champ!
- Carbon fiber look vinyl for the seat, an air gun stapler with the shortest staples you can find, a hair dryer. This is easier than you think. Just stretch, pull, staple, repeat.
Looks great so far. You did an amazing job on the upper triple. Bet that took some time.
06-04-2010, 11:06 AM
#165
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I am attaching a few pics. I did some investigating and the bevel of the rubber end for the filter seems to clear everything, no blockage. In the pic though it looks like it is but that is because its not 3d. Anyways I moved the filters back a little to help just in case. I will try running it a little later.
I really appreciate the ideas guys, I have been going and checking everything you have said. Its good practice and I have been learning more. Stick with me, thanks.
I really appreciate the ideas guys, I have been going and checking everything you have said. Its good practice and I have been learning more. Stick with me, thanks.
06-04-2010, 01:50 PM
#167
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yep done all that the bike runs differently but still drops a cylinder. It runs in various states of tune with jetting and air changes but still exhibits the same problem. I am really convinced it is ignition related now but I am still up for things to double check. I still need to run it today after scooting the air filters back some. Yesterday I tried the less air thing and it ran worse but the cylinder still dropped in relatively the same rpm.
06-05-2010, 11:45 AM
#168
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So I brought the bike to my home garage from work. Almost killed myself on it. I learned from a past experience when a front brake begins to lock pull over immediately which I did this time even though I was a half mile from home. I ran down a local home owner to borrow a pair of vice grips, and I removed the offending units and rode it the half mile home. Last time I didn't stop because I was 200ft from home and that promptly ended in me picking the bike back up. That was a lesson learned the hard way.
On another note, my shop neighbor was evicted by the boss to move up front and be replaced with a different tech. He was an old man I called "Poppy" he was great, always had insight or a joke or two. He had a stove and sometimes we would eat breakfast together and talk politics. He understood the ups and downs of work and enjoyed watching me tinker. My new neighbor I have a feeling likes to make others look bad so he can look better, you all I am sure have met people like that. So the effect is, I probably will have to cool the tinkering during slow times down until things are settled a little more. Plus I have been busy at work so now I am finding more time in the evening. This is why I brought the cx home. Now I just need to ferry my tools home so I can work on the darn thing.
On another note, my shop neighbor was evicted by the boss to move up front and be replaced with a different tech. He was an old man I called "Poppy" he was great, always had insight or a joke or two. He had a stove and sometimes we would eat breakfast together and talk politics. He understood the ups and downs of work and enjoyed watching me tinker. My new neighbor I have a feeling likes to make others look bad so he can look better, you all I am sure have met people like that. So the effect is, I probably will have to cool the tinkering during slow times down until things are settled a little more. Plus I have been busy at work so now I am finding more time in the evening. This is why I brought the cx home. Now I just need to ferry my tools home so I can work on the darn thing.
Last edited by Little_Horse; 06-05-2010 at 11:47 AM.
06-21-2010, 09:54 AM
#169
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Still waiting for the ignition unit. I did however fix the front brake, it is working now. I need to wire in a switch for it though then just the ignition and whatever tuning it needs.
I told my little sister about the bike, she is excited to get her hands on it. She passed her endorsement test a couple of weekends ago and is now like a little kid waiting for Christmas to come. I passed on the link to the build page so she could see the before and after's.
I will probably take a respite from motorcycle projects for a month or two. I need to work on my bus and finish the "Jeep" (Project Bruce). My dad wants me to turn an old Goldwing into a cafe side car rig for him. There are more projects then time I think. I should just retire now so I can just work on the fun things. Who cares about bills and taxes.
I told my little sister about the bike, she is excited to get her hands on it. She passed her endorsement test a couple of weekends ago and is now like a little kid waiting for Christmas to come. I passed on the link to the build page so she could see the before and after's.
I will probably take a respite from motorcycle projects for a month or two. I need to work on my bus and finish the "Jeep" (Project Bruce). My dad wants me to turn an old Goldwing into a cafe side car rig for him. There are more projects then time I think. I should just retire now so I can just work on the fun things. Who cares about bills and taxes.
06-22-2010, 08:24 PM
#170
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Well I test rode it today to see how the suspension would hold up... I lost... the damn air filter it came off when I was riding. I looked like a buffoon going back to retrieve it from the middle of the road. "What the hell a man in a motorcycle helmet is diving for something shiny in the road!" 
The front suspension only has 2 in left before bottoming out the springs are spent. I am looking into progressive brand springs. Oh and it looks like the fluid is watery. So more work to be done before it is ready.
Hot engine air is creeping under the seat causing a seat warming effect that would be welcome on a cold day but during the summer could become uncomfortable. I am not sure how to fix that yet. I will have to try and make a shield to baffle the air away.
Also the exhaust may be warming up the rear tire some
The front suspension only has 2 in left before bottoming out the springs are spent. I am looking into progressive brand springs. Oh and it looks like the fluid is watery. So more work to be done before it is ready.
Hot engine air is creeping under the seat causing a seat warming effect that would be welcome on a cold day but during the summer could become uncomfortable. I am not sure how to fix that yet. I will have to try and make a shield to baffle the air away.
Also the exhaust may be warming up the rear tire some
06-27-2010, 12:58 PM
#172
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SuperBike
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The first 40
So I took her for a 40 mile spin today. If you keep the rpms high the bike fires on two cylinders so it is rideable just not for a beginner. The issue I am having now is that it doesn't want to fire up if you shut it off after it reaches full temp. So I guess I may need to go a bit more lean on the idle mixture but I may hold off because it could still be an ignition box thing. I had to coast it down a hill to start it up out on my ride. I can't just leave this issue be or my sister would have to let it cool down for a couple of hours before getting back on. That isn't going to work.
07-02-2010, 06:12 PM
#174
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SuperBike
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Need extra brain power
The issue:
It won't start back up after it is shut down at full operating temps.
The details:
The starter turns the motor just fine but not even once does a cylinder fire, then after waiting 10 to fifteen minutes it starts right back up just fine idles just fine runs just fine.
The condition of parts:
I haven't checked coils yet
Spark plugs used to be fowled but now with the new ignition they are tan
The bike did this with both the OEM CDI and the new aftermarket CDI
The mixture screws where at 2 turns then at 1 turn and did the same thing.
Any ideas?
It has Pod filters and high flow exhaust
It won't start back up after it is shut down at full operating temps.
The details:
The starter turns the motor just fine but not even once does a cylinder fire, then after waiting 10 to fifteen minutes it starts right back up just fine idles just fine runs just fine.
The condition of parts:
I haven't checked coils yet
Spark plugs used to be fowled but now with the new ignition they are tan
The bike did this with both the OEM CDI and the new aftermarket CDI
The mixture screws where at 2 turns then at 1 turn and did the same thing.
Any ideas?
It has Pod filters and high flow exhaust
07-03-2010, 11:52 AM
#179
2nd mouse gets the cheese
SuperBike
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Well today at full temp I checked for spark and it was great, but it also started up great 
I am thinking the plugs are cleaning up some now that the bike actually fires correctly. More time will tell but for now it was just fine. I am going to clean or replace the plugs go for a good hard ride and test it out again.
I am thinking the plugs are cleaning up some now that the bike actually fires correctly. More time will tell but for now it was just fine. I am going to clean or replace the plugs go for a good hard ride and test it out again.
07-06-2010, 09:26 PM
#180
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Squid
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
mate
it sounds to me like the CDI coils on your stator are on the way out - or at least one of them is !
Its common when they start to fail that it happens when the engine is warm - as the copper gets warmed up and either you get an open circuit or some of the turns start shorting together - reducing the output voltage.
there are two coils - in series, with the centre junction shorted out by a diode at higher RPM to avoid the voltage rising too high.
These coils gererate about 150V - 200V that is used to charge the capacitors in the CDI that get dumped into the coils to generate the spark.
Often this will show up as a flat spot in the 4000 - 5000 rpm range first, then as the voltage starts to drop more it might be weaker on one cylinder causing that not to fire.
There are plenty of CX resources you can consult - choppercharles you know, also check out sheps site and the oz one australiancx.asn.au where I hang out.
The easiest fix for you might be one of the igntech units......
Suggest you measure your stator resistances HOT and COLD and the voltages on the blue and white wires HOT and COLD. No amount of fiddling with the fuel is going to fix a failing stator
Regards
Rayman
it sounds to me like the CDI coils on your stator are on the way out - or at least one of them is !
Its common when they start to fail that it happens when the engine is warm - as the copper gets warmed up and either you get an open circuit or some of the turns start shorting together - reducing the output voltage.
there are two coils - in series, with the centre junction shorted out by a diode at higher RPM to avoid the voltage rising too high.
These coils gererate about 150V - 200V that is used to charge the capacitors in the CDI that get dumped into the coils to generate the spark.
Often this will show up as a flat spot in the 4000 - 5000 rpm range first, then as the voltage starts to drop more it might be weaker on one cylinder causing that not to fire.
There are plenty of CX resources you can consult - choppercharles you know, also check out sheps site and the oz one australiancx.asn.au where I hang out.
The easiest fix for you might be one of the igntech units......
Suggest you measure your stator resistances HOT and COLD and the voltages on the blue and white wires HOT and COLD. No amount of fiddling with the fuel is going to fix a failing stator
Regards
Rayman
