My Build...
10-24-2007 | 06:39 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 379
From: Seattle, WA
My Build...
Well as many of you know I wrecked about a month ago and I figure now is the time to start getting after it. My first order of business is going to be the tank and trying to take the dent out and pretty it up the best that I can. I am thinking some kind of black metal flake...maybe
The dent
Now I am going to try and weld a stud on to the outside of the tank and pull the dent out the best that I can then do body filler from there.
I received some carbon kevlar WMP's from Calitoz and polished them up nice. The only problem is the more I look at the bike the more I want to fashion on a shorty GP style M4 slip on that would normally go on a gix600 or an r6. So I am torn and might let the pipes go. I just like kustom stuff.
the WMP's
I also have a factory jet kit that will be going in...indeed
As for my fairings I would love to keep them but with the cost of parts these days I think I might be up for selling them to fund the project. They were not on when I crashed and they sit in primer.
Well here is the bike as it sits...
parts I am still looking for-
Front fender
Clutch master and perch
Shift Lever
Bar-end with bar internals
Cheers all
-Brian
The dent
Now I am going to try and weld a stud on to the outside of the tank and pull the dent out the best that I can then do body filler from there.
I received some carbon kevlar WMP's from Calitoz and polished them up nice. The only problem is the more I look at the bike the more I want to fashion on a shorty GP style M4 slip on that would normally go on a gix600 or an r6. So I am torn and might let the pipes go. I just like kustom stuff.
the WMP's
I also have a factory jet kit that will be going in...indeed
As for my fairings I would love to keep them but with the cost of parts these days I think I might be up for selling them to fund the project. They were not on when I crashed and they sit in primer.
Well here is the bike as it sits...
parts I am still looking for-
Front fender
Clutch master and perch
Shift Lever
Bar-end with bar internals
Cheers all
-Brian
Last edited by Scumbag; 10-24-2007 at 06:43 PM.
10-24-2007 | 09:02 PM
#4
evil man of nothing
MotoGP
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,493
From: Boynton Beach, FL
10-24-2007 | 11:24 PM
#5
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 113
Crash damage Tank and Fairing Repair
Scumbag - don't drill and pull the tank dent. Take my advice, I'm repairing similar crash damage as we speak. Get fiberglass body filler (not bondo/polyester based crap) easy to work with; excellent adhesion, shapes well, very durable - sand/shape until only very minor surface imperfections or scratches remain and fill those in with 3M Acryl Green - comes in a tube from auto body supply shops, spreads with your fingers like a real thick paint base to fill in minor visible defects. Follow directions re: sandpapering and prime. Be patient, sand slowly while eyballing everything and gradually work your way from 220 grit on the Acryl Green base to a 2000 grit wet sanding on your final coat of paint, you'll be surprised how good it turns out. make sure you rub out with light pressure on rubbing compound, then polishing compound, (wash painted surface between each step) then final buff with carnuba wax and you should have a nice finish if you used quality paint.
Re fairing plastic, I fixed my own. The fairings are ABS plastic and you can buy assorted plastic welding rods at Harbor Freight for about five bucks. Use some C clamps to hold the broken fairing pieces together and carefully using the soldering iron and the ABS plastic welding rods like a solder, melt the ABS rods into the cracks to repair the fairing. If you are patient, and clamp on a thin piece of wood backing, you can melt the ABS to work it into fill in holes, fashion a replacement attachment tab, etc. On the back side of these plastic repairs, I reinforce the "weld" with fiberglass. Wal-mart sells an auto body fiberglass repair kit that's fiberglass matting and liquid fiberglass. Follow the directions, cut and spread 2 pieces of fiberglass matting in opposite directions on the backside of the weld, spread the liquid fiberglass on each layer and they'll dry real sturdy. Sand down the front (painted) side of the plastic repair with 220 grit sand paper, fill in any surface imperfections with Acryl Green, sand and paint. Good luck.
Re fairing plastic, I fixed my own. The fairings are ABS plastic and you can buy assorted plastic welding rods at Harbor Freight for about five bucks. Use some C clamps to hold the broken fairing pieces together and carefully using the soldering iron and the ABS plastic welding rods like a solder, melt the ABS rods into the cracks to repair the fairing. If you are patient, and clamp on a thin piece of wood backing, you can melt the ABS to work it into fill in holes, fashion a replacement attachment tab, etc. On the back side of these plastic repairs, I reinforce the "weld" with fiberglass. Wal-mart sells an auto body fiberglass repair kit that's fiberglass matting and liquid fiberglass. Follow the directions, cut and spread 2 pieces of fiberglass matting in opposite directions on the backside of the weld, spread the liquid fiberglass on each layer and they'll dry real sturdy. Sand down the front (painted) side of the plastic repair with 220 grit sand paper, fill in any surface imperfections with Acryl Green, sand and paint. Good luck.
10-25-2007 | 09:11 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 379
From: Seattle, WA
I will take the cheaper of the two seeing as I am going to be painting it anyway...
so whats it gunna be fellas? haha
oh and here are some pics of the cafe
I have a diffrent exhaust for it but it needs welding...
so whats it gunna be fellas? haha
oh and here are some pics of the cafe
I have a diffrent exhaust for it but it needs welding...
10-28-2007 | 09:02 AM
#11
Member
Squid
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 78
From: Summerfield , Fl.
I used a stud gun to pull dents out of my tank. A good way to evacuate gas fumes from tank is to remove gas cap and sending unit on bottom of tank. Attach a wet / dry vac. on blow to the gas cap area. Tape it in place with duct tape. Turn it on and let it blow for about 45 minutes or so. Tank will be dry and fumes should be gone.
+1 on the KZ, love the old, original, "cafe bikes."
+1 on the KZ, love the old, original, "cafe bikes."
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
