Welp, here goes.

I got my T-Rex Frame Sliders in/installed today, so I figured I'd get started on a Build Thread for my aftermarket adventures. Most of my work up until this point has been to get the bike in good running condition, i.e. cleaning out the cooling system.

Here's what I have so far in the aftermarket arena:

K&N Air Filter

Manual CCTs from superdutyd. (Love the black anodizing.)

T-Rex Frame Sliders.

I'll have picks tomorrow of the CCTs and Frame Sliders. The air filter will have to wait until I take the tank off, I've got a calculus test this week so it's time enough to upload the pictures and such.

I was planning on cutting the top off the air box; I've heard it kicks up the air flow and it's a routine mod for a Moriwaki stage 1 build. I feel like it's an easy mod and I'd like to get all my air/exhaust mods done before I mess with my tuning. I'm new to carburetors so I'm guessing on procedure here. Thoughts?

And suggestions are always welcome for things for me to get done. I'd prefer things that involve more labor than parts; I'm a college student and money is scarce, but time is plentiful when I don't have upcoming tests.

 

Not sure you should venture down the road of the lidless airbox. Many have tried (including myself, via my tech/tuner) and few have succeeded.....

Here are my suggestions:
1) remove the snorkel and open it up as much as possible (remove the divider and internal foam, smooth over the step inside - use silicone or whatever works)
2) invest in a set of billet velocity stacks (like the ones Dr Honda was offering)
3) get it jetted properly (on dyno preferably)
4) gear it to reflect your use
5) do the shifter mod (ie. reposition arm coming off engine on splines to get it as close to a right angle as possible, this will improve your shifting action)
6) fix the forks (at the very least get it sprung for your weight)
7) once forks are done, shim the shock (will help turn-in and sharpen the handling)
8) RC45 throttle tube (only costs about $15 and gives noticeably quicker throttle action)
9) lightened flywheel

and that is a decent beginning......

 

Negatory, ghostrider. I'd avoid modding the airbox like that.

Here are two general guidelines when messing with the fuel system:

1)If it works for other bikes, that doesn't mean it'll work for the VTR. Most "standard" mods (taking off the airbox, K&N filter, etc) don't work as advertised on our bike. You don't have a stage 1 build, so this makes it even more the case.

2)If you read recommendations, try to find verifiable results. There are a lot of ideas, but shooting blind.

That's just my two cents. Also, read up on 8541Hawk's Carb Setup thread for a good starting point if you haven't yet. I am partial to this thread b/c it worked very well for me.

 

Also, for some cheaper mods, look up "TPS adjustment" and depending on mileage of your bike, you may be due to check your valves clearances.

+1 on shimming the rear. Takes a couple of washers to make your bike handle better!

Good to see you diggin in... I speak from relatively recent experience in that you learn your bike very well when you start working on it.

 

What exactly do you mean by removing the snorkel?

And any idea where to order the billet velocity stacks?

Also, thanks to everyone that's given suggestions thus far. Y'all are great about helping out the new guys and just making all this available knowledge open and keeping guys like me interested in all this.

 

I think if you keep begging hard enough Mik might be coerced into another run. Singularly the most bang for the buck in my last build. The stacks make a huge difference in the performance of an otherwise pretty stock Superhawk. It's true the girl's got lungs - all you gotta do is feed em.

You can search for velocity stacks and get a good look at what others have done. I searched the other performance bike forums before I got on board with Mik's first run. I think I was the last guy in. It's been the best performance mod to the bike to date.

Experienced tuners help. Thanks Tim Tinkersley.

 

The snorkel is the curved rubber inlet, fitted to the front of the airbox lid. It's what makes the airbox lid slightly difficult to pull off.

I'm running a stock filter and unmodded airbox with the carb mods listed below, and my friend who rides a 998 Ducati is impressed with my bike's power.

No doubt there's more power available, if you have the desire to do the work. milstr's bike is probably the best example.

 

There's some stacks here... something tells me they won't be cheap, though:

Hpower - Performance & Diagnostic - Motorcycle

 

Damn you guys have short memories......lol

A&L Motorsports. Superhawk Parts

$130 a pair.....

 

NOTE: This item is back in stock. (sorry for the delay)