Alright, so I read all this stuff about the CCT's and how you should replace them after 30,000 miles to prevent a catastophe. Well, I just bought my first VTR 2000, with 50,000km, so pretty close to 30,000 miles... I worked at a bike shop about 6 years ago, and out of every bike that I rode there, the VTR was my one and only bike that I truly wanted.... But could never afford one while I worked there. Now 6 years later, I finally bought one. I heard a little bit of a clack clack coming from the front cylinder after I got it, and read on here that it would be the CCT. I had a CBR600F3 back then, and had to replace that one, so I knew that it was the problem. So, I ordered two from Honda, got them on Friday, installed the front cylinder one, because the bike shop only had one gasket... Idiots!!! Anyway, got it installed, and when I pulled the locking clip out, I heard a pretty obvious clink.. Thought it was just the tensioner popping out, but for some reason it just didn't sound right. So, I put everything back together again.. clicked the start button, and CLACK!! nice loud CLACK sound... Hmmm... What could that be??? Well... I ended up taking it all apart so that I could check the timing on the cams, which involves literally taking just about everything off, only to find out that I more then likely bent a valve. I am not 100% sure yet, cause I have to attempt to re-time my cams again, but I am pretty sure that is what happened.

The bike ran great... I had no problems... I just got it... Now it is wrecked... So! Anyway.. Moral of my story... If you are attempting yourself to replace your CCT, you may want to take your little timing cap off, and line it up with the "FT" marker, for the front cylinder. this ensures that there is no tension on the cams to turn in any direction, and will prevent this from happening to anyone else. It takes a few seconds to pull that little cap off, and is well worth it!! There is a link to an original Honda service manual on this forum somewhere, and it says nothing about changing the CCT, so this will hopefully help someone.

 

I don't think you bent a valve. I did the same and ended up retiming the front cylinder. It worked out ok. Everything should be fine. Did you try restarting it after you retimed it?

 

Retime the cams and handcrank the engine thru two revolutions.
Set the front cylinder at TDC compression.
Check the valve clearances.
Bent valves won't seat, so you'll have a huge amount of valve lash on the bent valves.
Normal clearances means you didn't bend valves.

~Jeffers

 

Yes, I did try to restart it, but I don't think I timed them perfectly. My manual says to check the rear cylinder to make sure you are starting from the correct point, and even those cams don't line up perfectly. So, I did retime the front cylinder according to that, but they kind of ended up between teeth. At one setting they were too far back, and the next tooth, they seemed too far forward. So, I timed them to what I thought was correct, and put everthing back together. I tried to fire it, and it seemed to be only running on one cylinder, from what I could tell. I could get it to run, but once I let go of the gas it would die. Plus there was a pretty good ticking noise from the front. I haven't had time to tear it apart again. But what I am going to try is tear it all apart, then time the front to match the rear in regards to the cams being either advanced a tooth, or whatever the rear cylinder is. Then try a compression test. If I get nothing, then I am ripping the head off... If I get compression, I will reassemble and go from there. Either way, I was not thinking clearly after I did it, so I don't think that what I did to try and time it correctly the first time, wasn't correct. I have my fingers crossed, but am doubtful. I have found a good friend of mine that runs a racing team here in Calgary. He has a guy that does all his work, and he said that he would redo my head if that is what I needed.

Like I said.. fingers are crossed... So.. Now I wait for some decent weather to tear into it, and find out the damage.. I will keep you all posted!! Thanks for the advice by the way!!

 

So, as to be expected, I did smash my valves. Luckily my piston is okay..... I guess, if you can call that luck. I crushed both intake valves.. Hopefully I didn't scar the seats too badly. But we will see. The parts are on order to replace the valve, head gasket, and everything else needed to take care of it. I never thought I would be attempting to take the head off my bike within one month of owning it... Ah well.. What are you gonna do. It's the beginning of the season, and it is finally warm, and the street cleaners are out an hummin along.. I have to get her back on the road as soon as possible... Anyways, wish me luck getting her back together without causing myself anymore problems.

 

darjm
Junior Member
Squid

Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 3



The following imo is the quickest and safest way I've found to replace the CCT's

(1) Remove seat

(2) Disconnect block connector on end of wiring from fuel tank (located under-seat in front of battery box)

(3) Unbolt fuel tank, turn fuel tap off with 8mm open end spanner and disconnect all hoses noting where each one goes first (use masking tape and write on it if you won't remember) then lift off tank (easier to do when tank is nearly empty)

(4) Remove air filter box lid and air filter, then remove the two air intake trumpets, (noting where each one goes as they are different lengths) cover the intake holes of each carb with a clean rag so nothing can fall in there, next remove the screws holding the air box to the carbs and disconnect the breather hoses then remove the air box itself

(5) Remove the spark plugs and cover holes with clean rags

(6) Remove the two caps from the alternator housing (left-hand side of bike when sitting on it) be very careful removing the center one as it's made of very soft material

(7) Using a socket and tee bar in the center hole of the alternator cover turn the engine over (anti-clockwise) until the timing mark 'RT' lines up with the mark on the alternator cover which can be seen in the 2nd hole of the alternator cover

(8 ) Remove the rear cam cover (it's much easier than the front one) also note models with the pair system will have a metal locating dowel between cylinder head and cam cover, not applicable on UK models

(9) Now looking at the camshafts, the lobes should be facing to-wards each other, if not turn the engine over one full turn (360 degrees) until the 'RT' mark is re-aligned, they should now be facing to-wards each other and the marks RI and RE on the camshaft sprockets should be level with the top part of the cylinder head and will be facing away from each other, you are now ready to remove the rear CCT

(10) Unscrew the small bolt in the end of the rear CCT (beware a small amount of oil will run out) and turn the screw head inside clockwise to fully retract the plunger of the tensioner with a small screwdriver, (Haynes manual show you how to make a simple tool to make life easier) holding the small screwdriver in place undo and remove the tensioner, you can then release the tension slowly (especially if you intend to re-use them) and remove the screwdriver

(11) Clean off mating surfaces, fit new gasket and new CCT, (they come already retracted) once fully tightened up you can release the CCT plunger making sure it unwinds slowly until full tension is released, then remove tensioning tool and re-fit sealing washer and bolt, then re-fit cam cover. REMEMBER TO TAKE THE METAL CAPS OFF THE OLD CCT PLUNGER HEADS AND FIT ONTO THE NEW ONES, AS THE NEW ONES ARE NOT SUPPLIED WITH THEM!!!!!!.

(12) Now turn the engine over anti-clockwise 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns) until the 'FT' mark lines up with the mark on the alternator cover, you are now ready to remove the front CCT using the same procedure as the rear, without the need to remove the front cam cover

(13) Re-fit everything else in the reverse order of removal, I use a little thread lock on the screws that hold the base of the air box to the carbs.

Once you have finished re-fitted the CCT's, before putting it all back together turn over the engine 3 or 4 complete turns using the socket and tee bar (anti-clockwise) just to make sure everything is turning freely before you start the engine!


I hope that info is helpful to you!

(copy and pasted from a currently dead UK forum, i followed these instructions, and had literally no mechanical experience, and it all went fine, but like all DIY repairs, you do so at your own risk!)

 

Sweet! Where can I get a VTR 2000?...lol

Is it a 2000 VTR1000? That is what I have.