Hello,

I would like to suggest a couple of additions to the carb removal/jetting thread that would have saved me a lot of trouble if they had been in there. To summarize, a) I wish it started out with a list of parts you should order in advance, so they can be on their way to you while you contemplate the work, and b) I wish it had warned me that syncing my carbs is nearly impossible without getting an extra fitting and setting up a vacuum hose harness for the sync gauge.

1) The following parts are probably not in stock at your dealer. They cost almost nothing, but they will take a while to get to you - so you might as well order them now:

• Gasket Kits
  • 16010-MBB-640 - "Gasket Set A" for standard carb refresh (not including separation of carbs
  • 16010-HM7-670 - "Gasket Set" - additional gaskets necessary if you really pull the whole thing apart (not needed for normal maintenance)
• Joint boot & washer - aka "carb sync adapter"
  This is the exact same fitting that you already have going from your rear cylinder to your petcock valve. However your bike only has one, and you need two to hook up any sort of carb sync tool *(note, read below)
  • 16214-MB0-000 - JOINT BOOST
  • 90452-323-000 - WASHER (5MM)
• Some extra vacuum hose, plugs, and a T-adapter to build a carb sync harness. Note - I don't even know the specs on these yet, I'm still at this stage. But basically you want to a) put a T-adapter inline with your petcock vacuum hose, b) add a tail to that T with a plug, and c) put in the above fitting from the front cylinder, with some matching hose and its own plug.

My humble opinion is that anybody who is going to open up their carbs should be told from moment one a) you're going to have to sync them, and b) syncing them is hugely time consuming without adding the adapter and a harness of hoses to attach the sync gauge to. Without this, you practically have to undo everything you've done putting the carbs in because the blanking bolt is not accessible. As a result, you have to sync your carbs with your bike in a dismantled state, instead of just "going for a 10 min ride and then hooking up the sync gauge" like the shop manual suggests.

Do others think this is a reasonable idea, and if so, is it possible for someone to open up that thread and add to it?

Thanks!

 

Well... If you use the sync tool recommended by Honda it's a snap to hook it up... The harness is complete and it's very easy too hook up...

If you use another sync tool of good quality it usually comes with adapters of different sizes and should have one for the VTR... Mine had... And I can get a carb synd done in under 10 minutes without having a pre-installed "T" or adapter...

The idea to put a list of parts in there might be nice though as it's true the shop never ever has the stuff you wan't in stock...

 

Well I haven't actually seen the Honda tool, but regardless of the tool, you would need to know in advance to take out that blanking bolt and replace it with an adapter while you have the carbs off. Even the shop manual does not tell you to do that.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the honda tool does not spare you the pain of having to get that blanking bolt out, right?

 

The blanking bolt is a SOB so I would get it off and replace it with the nipple that is the same part as the one in the rear. Then hook a vaccum line to it and run it over to the vacuum line that connects the rear line to the petcock , cut the line splice in a t fitting connect everything up and you are done, sync then is a five minute job. So yes you should get the part ordered way ahead of time so it will be a one time type deal.

 

Took me 10 min just to find the dam bolt, and that was after removing the tank and air box. It was only finger tight.

+1 on the parts list before removal. A bee ate through one of those two little orange foam filters and then was laid to rest on the air filter. Looks like he got sucked onto the filter when I started it up.

Fortunately i had some T's and hose for the quick sync set up, but still need the foam filters.