The price on them is kinda silly... I think It would come out to about 2-3$ in parts including a "custom" ecthed PCB and the resin...

Altough I'm not sure if it's really cost effective to send em across the pond... If I send them as a normal letter (a cardboard envelope) it's 8 USD in stamps...

I have all the parts needed for a few more so If you really want to, I can make one for you? Just PM an adress if you are interested...



Brian A: Yes, born and raised in Sweden, by swedish parents... It's part of our educational system... Everybody starts learning English & German from 4'th grade in school... Altough I'm kind of odd, I opted to learn Italian as an extra course... And then since my girlfriend is of swedish/polish descent and my brothers wife is swedish/bosnian, I can also hold a normal conversation in those languages...

That and I taugh myself Gaelic one summer when I fell in love with a scottish girl... 7 languages and counting so I guess I'm a statistic anomaly...

 

Tweety
that is one of the more clever things I've seen and thanks for the write up. Should be very useful. I know nothing about electronics - I think I can follow the instructions though and should be fun trying.
bill

 

i want to buy one ...

 

Wow. Awesome.

 

Really cool. I think we need a project manager of sourts. Someone to build one here in the states using parts obtained at a common supplier (internet preferably) and put together a parts list. I think the instructions are clear enough. If there was a complete list of parts that could be ordered from one source, we could all by them have our own nifty little voltage warning system. If I undertake the venture I will be sure to document it.

 

Gimme a weblink for a suitable parts supplier and I'll knock of a partslist in a few minutes...

RadioShack apparently doesn't have zenerdiodes... ? would Digi-Key work?

For parts see first post...

You need the most basic and obvious tools... A soldering iron and some tin... A set of small pliers, a knife or scissor is basicly what you need... Having more or better tools might make it easier, but isn't necessary...

 

Your list neglects to list the resistors. Why is that?

I am bummed I wasn't more patient to wait for your reply. I couldn't deal with browsing through Digi-key (Mouser was a little easier) web site, so I ran over to the local electronics supplier. It cost me 20 bucks, and I don't have an enclosure yet. I had to buy 20 of one of the transistors because they didn't have a smaller package. I also had to get 2 ZDs and an assortment of LEDs. The parts are far less expensive on-line, but there may be ordering minimums and shipping charges to deal with, so it may be a wash. My buddy is going to show me how to solder such small connections, and hopefully I will have it together and operational next week. If I have spares, and I order some other stuff, maybe I can put some kits together and send them to people who want to give it a shot.

 

Just for kicks, here is what I paid at a local electronics shop for the items needed. Also added a cross reference to a few parts

470 resistor - .29
18k resistor - .29
4k7 resistor - .29
1k5 resistor - .29
560 resistor - .29
Stripboard - 5.95 (4x3)
Transistor BC547 (BC547-ND) or (NTE123) - 2.34
Transistor BC557 (BC547-ND) or (NTE159) - 2.34
Zener diode 11V (1N4741AFSTR-ND) or (NTE5020A 1/2w) or (NTE5074A 1w) - .78 (for 2)
Yellow LED 3 mm - .39
Red LED 3 mm - .39

-----------
7/9/07
With not being able to make this work myself, I've resolved to creat a simple circuit that seems to be doing the job as well. Albeit less complicated. See diagram below. I've built one that seems to be working as intended. The LED on the resistor basically tells you that you have battery. The LED on the 12v zener diode tells you that you are getting charge over 12v. The LED on the 13v zener diode tells you that you are getting charge over 13v. The LED on the 14v zener diode tells you that you are getting charge over 14v. You are basically going to have LED's on all the time though. You should be getting all LED's on except for the LED on the 14v zener, unless you are getting overcharge. You could possibly just have the LED's on 13 and 14v zeners, for a minimalist meter. My small electronics skill are very minimal, but this design seems to be working when I put it on the bike.

Someone point out any flaws if seen. Cost would be around $5 for the neccessary components. I can give the exact part #'s if there is interest also.

 

Um... well the only reason for not listing the resistors is that I'm stupid... and a bit lazy... I figured everybody could find them at the same online supplier...

Updated... included part no for the resistors...

All items are selected to be possible to buy 1 of each apart from the resistors as it's cheaper to buy 10 each...
(You can buy 1 each with different part no...)

 

A quick soldering tip!

Use a suitable soldering iron and tin (with flux core) and put the tip to both the component leg and the copper track heating both... count to 3 and dab the tin shortly... remove both tin and soldertip... if you need to "fix" your solder wait atleast the count of 5 before re-applying heat otherwise you overheat the component...

If the tin only sticks to one surface you have only heated that... make sure to get contact with both surfaces with the tip...

Make sure to keep the tip clean... a wet sponge or wet toiletpaper is a good way... Also make sure to use as little solder as possible... adding more after the first dab doesn't help, it only makes it worse, only reheat and reshape with the solder tip...

 

OK, I gave it a go last night, and thought I would give my experiences so that anybody giving it a shot on their own doesn't encounter the same issues. Tweety, it appears that the #5 resistor and the yellow LED are in the wrong spots on your board layout diagram. I actually made the mistake in assuming that was a 9 x 9 board (the picture is of a 9 x 8) and got some of the components lined up wrong. When I went to change them I discovered that things didn't connect the way the wiring diagram shows. I came to the conclusion (granted, I don't know electronic circuit design so I had to make some basic assumptions) that the wiring diagram is correct, but the resistor and LED were just swapped on the board layout. Also, I assume that the red dot on the bottom row indicates that the trace must be cut or stopped so as not to connect the diode and R3 to R5 and the yellow LED.
The soldering was actually easier than I thought. It really helps to have the proper tools and materials for the job. The de-soldering wasn't so bad either. Make sure you have soldering wick, or some other de-soldering tool in case you mess something up. I ultimately de-soldered the entire board and will try again today.

Tweety, let me know if these mistakes I pointed out make sense or if I am looking at it wrong.

 

Alright, I have gone through the steps and the darn thing is not working correctly. I have adjustable power supply that I am using to test it, and can't seem to make it work as designed. The first thing I found is that the layout drawing depicts the transistors in a position that was incorrect for the transistors I bought, so care must be taken that each leg is connecting to the correct components. After messing with it, I could get the red light to turn on at the diode's rated level, but I can't get the yellow light to turn on. Prior to discovering the issue with the transistor orientation, both light would turn on and stay on all the way to 20+ volts. I may have a bad component or an incorrect component as I purchased my parts at a local electronics store and the items were cross referenced. Has anyone else tried this yet? Tweety, is it possible that something else is going on in the circuit?

 

Are the LEDs connected correctly? They have a polarity. If they are installed backwards they act as a diode and will not light up.

 

Everything was connected according to Tweety's diagram. As I previously posted, I found that the diagram had a couple of mistakes. I am actually wondering if the circuit has been assembled by anyone else and tested. If the circuit works as intended and drawn, I may have a bad component, or a questionable solder joint. I did however assemble this with a former "Fiber-Optic circuit board test engineer" who is professionaly certified in soldering much smaller circuit boards than this, and the trouble shooting was being done by our electrical engineer at the office. Of course he says, "what you could do,...(insert super nerdy electro-techno speak here)" . The LED orientation is a good point. In fact I question the schematic's indicated orientation for all of the components. The transistors had to be turned around, so I am wondering what else needs to be turned around. As far as I can GUESS, the wiring diagram is more correct than the board layout drawing.

Tweety....Are you out there? Do you have any suggestions for me? My current status is: Both lights would come on at 2volts and stay on to above 18v. I then found that the orientation of the transistors was wrong and turned them around. Now the yellow light will come on at the Zener voltage (I tried it with a 6v and a 12v and both worked), but the red light never turns on.

 

If the LEDs come on at all they are installed correctly. THAT, I know. Not much else I can help you with though. I'll try to print this out and ask some of the nerdier guys at work about it on Monday.

 

With not being able to make this work myself, I've resolved to creat a simple circuit that seems to be doing the job as well. Albeit less complicated. See diagram below. I've built one that seems to be working as intended. The LED on the resistor basically tells you that you have battery. The LED on the 12v zener diode tells you that you are getting charge over 12v. The LED on the 13v zener diode tells you that you are getting charge over 13v. The LED on the 14v zener diode tells you that you are getting charge over 14v. You are basically going to have LED's on all the time though. You should be getting all LED's on except for the LED on the 14v zener, unless you are getting overcharge. You could possibly just have the LED's on 13 and 14v zeners, for a minimalist meter. My small electronics skill are very minimal, but this design seems to be working when I put it on the bike.

Someone point out any flaws if seen. Cost would be around $5 for the neccessary components. I can give the exact part #'s if there is interest also.

Not trying to hijack here, but giving an alternative along the same lines of the original post.

 

I'm out here!!! Sorry!!! I completely spaced on this thread!

The diagram is 100% correct, double and triple checked...!

Buton the image the yellow diode was drawn with the wrong orientation...
The resistor 5 is in the correct position as it's not important weather it's before or after the diode as long as the diode is oriented correctly. Sorry about that one!

I think that if you swap the pins on the yellow diode your circuit should work... Can't say for sure tho as you say that you may have other transistors? If the parts nr are the same, the orientation of them should match my image (now that it is corrected), otherwise tell me wich you have and I'll figure out how to connect them for you...

BTW... if I space out again, give me a poke with a big stick!!! (PM!) Or have Greg haul me back here by my ear...

 

No hijacking needed... It's all about the same topic and the goal is to get it working... And with me off dreaming, somebody has to do the work...

BTW I'm guessing any images you had also got lost when the server had a hissy fit... Could you reload them?

 

Does anyone have some images of the indicator lights mounted on your bike?

 

Sure wish I could speak seven languages! Sure wish I could get a girlfriend and then learn her language. Your non-verbal communication skills must be sharp, too!

 

Well... I can speak 4, read/write 3 and mangle 3 more to the point where people understand me... I'm fluid in Swedish, English and Polish and near fluid in Bosnian and I can understand and hold a very basic conversation in Italian, German and Gaelic... Tough I can only pronounce most of it if somewhat imbibed on whiskey... I think most of that language relies on it's speakers having their speech slightly slurred... But I did learn a few good words and phrases from that particular girls grandfather... Most of which would get me in severe problems if repeated in front of a female ...

As for other communication skills... Um... I have managed so far...