If you remove the PAIR valve cover vent tube and cap the cover, do you even need to put the PAIR reed back in? Will

 

If you remove all of the tubing and cap the PAIR reed cover, do you even need to put the reed back in? Would it suffice to put the cover back on with some gasket maker on it?

 

If you leave the reed in, you leave what's been designed to prevent hot exhaust gas from escaping. When I disabled PAIR I wanted the plumbing off too for carb work clearance. I used a pair (no pun intended )of blocker plates available from forum member superdutyd. I think they were $5 or so delivered. He machines these with a tiny indentation where the screw sticks out from the reed valve so you just bolt these in place where the original covers were. It not only lets the reed valve serve it's intended purpse, it removes a (now) useless pipe opening and looks neater.

 

Hi,
I flipped the reeds on mine today and it would not idle and missed at higher RPM . Did I miss something ? Flipped them back and it runS GREAT ALTHOUGH POPS ON DECELERATION.Was I supposed to cap or plug any fittings ?

 

I dunno. I didn't flip mine. I left them as they were but replaced the covers with blocker plates from superdutyd. My bike runs fine with no misses nor popping on decel.

 

I don't think you read ALL the instructions.....

 

I reread and you are correct that I did not flip the reed to hold it closed .
I just reinstalled on the oter side and thought that was proper. Thanks ,today I will try again.

 

Just did the PAIR removal on my bike. Thanks to superdutyd for the block off plates! The black looks good on the cylinder heads. Much easier to access the carb now.

 

I flipped mine and still get popping with my Staintune exhaust. It doesn't seem to be as loud or as often, but it still happens

 

Well the next step would be to turn the pilot screws out 1\2 a turn as the popping now sounds like it is caused by a lean condition.

 

what do you do with the small hose that comes from the carb to the pair system.
does that get closed off or rerouted.

 

Per the "Obsessive Compulsive" Addendum steps 4 and 5, remove from carbs and plug with rubber cap.

 

got it,thanks.some how that didnt register in the brain lol
doing a tear down and just making sure i get it right the first time.
thanks again.

 

So if i got this right, i would need a small rubber cap to block off the T of the front cylinder that goes to the PAIR valve, and 2 bigger caps to block the aluminum covers of the reed valves(or buy block off plates) am i correct? And also, i leave the oil breathers and the 2 other breathers that come from the carbs, right?

 

Great Info, thanks. Now, my question; To do a proper clean up, the breather hoses from the valve covers to the PAIR system were removed, so I will need a quantity of (4) 3/4" vacuum/block off caps, one for each valve cover, and 2 for the bottom of the lower airbox, right? Just making sure it is proper to cap off the valve covers. I take it they have other means of breathing?

Thanks for the info, hope someone reads this.

Terry

 

OK, feel stupid now! I believe I answered my own question, by further investigation. I removed to many things!! The white plastic box it the airbox that connects to the hoses running to the valve covers is how the valve covers are vented, so have reinstalled said parts.

Thanks for all the great info here on the site. You really can get an answer to all most anything about our bikes here!!!

Terry

 

Thank you for the great write up and photos! It was a snap, I am one of those who took it all out and installed cover plates over the reed valves. That is the one area left a little vague to me, I realized it was the metal piece that had to be turned over to hold the reed valve closed rather than turning over the whole assembly, that won't work as it only fits one way. The photos were very helpful. That boost joint is cheap but shipping is not. Also, that boost joint likes just over finger tight. I broke it the first time not knowing that it couldn't take even snugging down. Finger tight and then 1/32 turn. I think I know why some think the PAIR removal makes their bike faster, it's the sound. The bike does sound a little different after getting rid of that valve, (more volume in the air box)? I'm not too sure about idle, (I do think idle sounds better), but the bike does sound different without the gurgling and popping and that makes it seem more aggressive or something. Same bike but it now sounds mean or something. Thanks again for the write up! It's a lot easier than it sounds.

 

Hey storm,

Mine is Australian, and it does make the popping noise a LOT on decel. but i have not opened the airbox on this one yet to take a look. I can let you know if you like. I'll be looking soon.

 

Anybody elses bike take forever to warm up after this mod?