KB Article #2 - Single Sided Swingarm Conversion
#1
KB Article #2 - Single Sided Swingarm Conversion
How to install a single-sided swing arm on a VTR1000F
Brian Light: blight_93908@_NOSPAM_yahoo.com
To proceed, you'll need to buy some parts (eBay is a good source, or a local bike wrecker) i.e., a complete 1998 or later VFR800 single-sided swingarm, (the 750 arm will NOT work), arm-axle and nut w/ spacers, drive-hub and cush-drive, sprocket, disc, caliper, wheel, lugs, brake line, and shock linkage plates with bolts. Make SURE the bike was not rear-ended, the rims are true, and the swingarm arm is not cracked or tweaked in any way. That could lead to disaster, so be careful please. If you have to, pay more for a pristine setup...it will save you a lot of pain and suffering further on down the road.
The rear wheel I'm using is a stock '98 VFR wheel, but with a "hub cap"
from a Canadian VFR accessory house...it covers the bolts and looks good
IMHO! I like the squared-off spoke shoulders. There are some VFR wheels out
there that are narrower and don't look as good as this one does (heavily-radiused, curved spokes) I also like the 1991-1993 wheel with the 8 spokes. It's all a matter of taste, cost, and availability really.
The swing-arm swap alone is fairly easy, a bolt-on affair. BUT, there are 5 other (major) modifications required:
1) New rear shock triangular linkage plates (2) must be fabricated to clear the swingarm. (my drawing is available.)
2) A new 'dogbone' connecting-rod must be fabricated to connect the shock linkage lower mount plates to the engine-mounting.
3) The rear (OEM or aftermarket) shock must be moved 1.75" to the left, putting it (unfortunately) directly in the rear header path.
4) The exhaust headers must be modified heavily to clear the new rear shock
location. New headers need to be built generally.
5) Brake line from the stock VTR master cylinder to the VFR caliper must be routed and secured, and second (linked-brake) connection blocked off.
6) Install a longer chain...the awingarm adds about 1.5" to your wheelbase.
7) Go for a nice long ride and look cool!!!!
While the first 3 items were no big deal, the fabrication of a new exhaust system is indeed a LOT of work. I fabricated mine myself, a two into one left-side cannister affair that allowed full, unobstructed view of the rear wheel from the right side. Brake line hookup is relatively easy. Another SSS convert (Daz) ran a braided line through the swingarm. It looks really nice and I may do it myself.
I can provide photos of various steps in my conversion if you would like.
Keep reminding me, as I may forget to reply if I'm busy, which is most of the time unfortunately.
Cheers,
BKL
Brian Light: blight_93908@_NOSPAM_yahoo.com
To proceed, you'll need to buy some parts (eBay is a good source, or a local bike wrecker) i.e., a complete 1998 or later VFR800 single-sided swingarm, (the 750 arm will NOT work), arm-axle and nut w/ spacers, drive-hub and cush-drive, sprocket, disc, caliper, wheel, lugs, brake line, and shock linkage plates with bolts. Make SURE the bike was not rear-ended, the rims are true, and the swingarm arm is not cracked or tweaked in any way. That could lead to disaster, so be careful please. If you have to, pay more for a pristine setup...it will save you a lot of pain and suffering further on down the road.
The rear wheel I'm using is a stock '98 VFR wheel, but with a "hub cap"
from a Canadian VFR accessory house...it covers the bolts and looks good
IMHO! I like the squared-off spoke shoulders. There are some VFR wheels out
there that are narrower and don't look as good as this one does (heavily-radiused, curved spokes) I also like the 1991-1993 wheel with the 8 spokes. It's all a matter of taste, cost, and availability really.
The swing-arm swap alone is fairly easy, a bolt-on affair. BUT, there are 5 other (major) modifications required:
1) New rear shock triangular linkage plates (2) must be fabricated to clear the swingarm. (my drawing is available.)
2) A new 'dogbone' connecting-rod must be fabricated to connect the shock linkage lower mount plates to the engine-mounting.
3) The rear (OEM or aftermarket) shock must be moved 1.75" to the left, putting it (unfortunately) directly in the rear header path.
4) The exhaust headers must be modified heavily to clear the new rear shock
location. New headers need to be built generally.
5) Brake line from the stock VTR master cylinder to the VFR caliper must be routed and secured, and second (linked-brake) connection blocked off.
6) Install a longer chain...the awingarm adds about 1.5" to your wheelbase.
7) Go for a nice long ride and look cool!!!!
While the first 3 items were no big deal, the fabrication of a new exhaust system is indeed a LOT of work. I fabricated mine myself, a two into one left-side cannister affair that allowed full, unobstructed view of the rear wheel from the right side. Brake line hookup is relatively easy. Another SSS convert (Daz) ran a braided line through the swingarm. It looks really nice and I may do it myself.
I can provide photos of various steps in my conversion if you would like.
Keep reminding me, as I may forget to reply if I'm busy, which is most of the time unfortunately.
Cheers,
BKL
#4
Brian,
I noticed from the pics you didn't change the front end much. I see the VFR bars (a mod I've made already), and the fender (?). What did you do there specifically, and how does the SSA version handle (comparitively). I have a HawkGT, with similar chassis mods, and I'm concerned about handling changes.
I'm accumulating parts for my SSA conversion, and ALL help you can give will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy
I noticed from the pics you didn't change the front end much. I see the VFR bars (a mod I've made already), and the fender (?). What did you do there specifically, and how does the SSA version handle (comparitively). I have a HawkGT, with similar chassis mods, and I'm concerned about handling changes.
I'm accumulating parts for my SSA conversion, and ALL help you can give will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Andy
#6
Hi folks...I don't have the bike anymore, but I can answer individual questions if you email me directly at: blight1@comcast.net
I'll try and help if I can!
Cheers,
Brian Light
I'll try and help if I can!
Cheers,
Brian Light
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