Ok NOrrTH,
I picked up a set of '00 VFR bars from a VFR forum for $40.00!! I'm stoked. I have to get the aftermarket lines now and if I understand your original post (& 102dals) I will probably need the +2" Goodridge lines as these are a little taller than your bars. Please, someone, confirm. They also came with the bar ends but nothing to screw them into. Will the ends from my stock bars work?

TIA,
Chilly

 

Well, I am running with VFR bars (98 or 2k, cant remember right now). I am using the stock lines currently. So, all I had to do was remove the junction point from the lower triple to gain the extra line I needed. I've been riding like this for months now with no problems. So, you should be able to save the money from the braided lines if you want to. But, if you want the braided lines and are not planing og going for the full superbike bar modification then you should not need anything longer than the standard kit length. (I'm not 100% sure since I dont have it....but I'm making and educated guess based on other threads I've read.

I also used the stock weights with the VFR bar inserts. I bought my bars from two different people (e-bay :P). One was brand new...never installed therefore no inserts either. The other appeared to be off a salvage bike as the bar ed weight screw was bent but everthing else was in good shape. I yanked my insert out of the stock VTR clip on and slammed it into the new VFR bar. Installed the stock VTR bar weights and installed them on the bike. Oh yeah, I hacked my fairing before...but I knew this was only an intermediate step to the superbike bar mod. If your not going full superbike..you can most likely get by with shimming the fairing at the mirror mount to avoid any contact issues (you'll see what I'm talking about after install if you don't alrady know).

 

Okay, just some observations (not complaints) to pass on.

Since I have set my VFR bars up I have noticed a few funny things.

1. It really seems harder to turn/lean the bike over. I find that it feels like I am using much more force to do so. I really notice it in long stretched out / weeping turns, not really the tight twisties.

2. The headlight was going out when parking the bike. Well this was really a no brain-er once I was parking my bike and didn't have my earplugs in. I was hitting the starter button when pulling the right bar in tight for parking maneuvering. Important to note is the starter was hitting my tank bag not my tank. So moral of the story is, when your setting up your bars keep in mind not only tank clearance but the other stuff too.

3. Same situation on the left side, hitting the horn! :P Kind of not cool to do when coming home late and alarming the folks next door of your presence! :P

4. The VFR bars are made in such a way that the VTR clutch and front master cylinder prevent the levers from being adjusted lower (more downward). This may be just an issue for me but I found with the new height I wanted my levers facing down more and I cannot unless I use a dremel to hack into the bars. I don't want to do this since I think I will unload them soon anyways! =)

5. I guess this should have been as point 1 or before but... I was able position my bars (after cutting the fairing so I don't know if it would work other wise) so that they do not hit either the fairing or the tank (of course without tank bag).

Over all, I am very glad that I tried it out. Thanks to the guys who figured it all out and passed the knowledge on to us!

 

Thanks Besucher98,
1. So you're just leaving the junction point from the lower triple hang to gain the extra length needed to keep stock lines? That would be great. Braided lines don't quite fit the budget yet , but at least I could proceed with the change over.

2. As far as turning/leaning in, most of my hard driving days are over. I'm too old for that, most of the time. I'll ease my way into that problem as needed since most of my riding is commuting or road trips. Track days and canyon racing are not in my future.

3. I have no problem modding the fairing as someday I may go with the Superbike setup as well. 'Bling just makes it sound so great, how can I resist?:-D

4. Thanks for the heads up on the tank bag. I never had one before on any of my bikes and now can't see not having one.

5. Lastly, you mention adjusting the levers downward. Do you mean tilting them? I'll probably figure this out when I make the change but taking all the questions out are why we're here right?

Thanks again. This site is great. Most everyone's willing to share their info without making you feel like an idiot.

 

Go with the standard length SS lines. +2 are way too long as I found out the hard way.

With regards to tilting downward your clutch lever, your right, it only goes so far without touching. A dremel is an easy fix if it bothers you. Are you a "two finger clutcher" or do you use your whole hand cause it fits me perfect and I'm pretty tall in the saddle.

Another thing for anyone else considering this mod, you do not need to trim the fairing. I didn't and yes the high beam switch hits the bottom of it but only at nearly full lock and there's plenty of flexibility in the fairing so its no prob at all imo.

 

Yeah, if you really like the VFR bar mod, the superbike bar is even more of a good thing. I sold that "kit" a couple of months ago in preparation for selling ol' superbling. I miss that bar kit so much that I started assembling another one to use until I sell the damn bike (just can't seem to place the ad)! I've found another source for the mounts that are cheaper than the moose racing units. They should be in another day or two and I'll post more info and pics then.

Since the VFR bars place you further back but are about the same width as stockers, you have less weight on the front with the same amount of leverage. That's probably why some feel a difference in steering. You will NOT have this issue with superbike bars as they are much wider. I had to trim them some. When I went back to the current stock setup, it felt like I was driving a truck!

FWIW

 

Bling, what mounts did you get?

I bought mine from e-bay. They are for CRF 50 risers. I just dropped the upper triple. Drilled and tapped a center hole and I was good to go. I will take some pic's of the mounting once the brake lines get in.

 

I just installed mine this weekend, and haven't had a chance to ride it yet (no insurance till next week). The solid aluminum bars are very pretty and look nice on the Shawk. I got a complete set with switches, master cylinders, grips, and end weights from Ebay for $27! I had to drill new holes for the throttle and kill switch to line up correctly. I used Russel SS lines in stock length, and the length was just about perfect; the left line could stand to be a tad longer, but it worked out o.k. I do hit the high beam switch on full lock (no big deal since my HB is always on anyway) and the throttle housing also hits under the fairing on full lock. Other than that, the only clearnace issue is the vista cruise hits the tank and locks on at full lock, but it did that with the stock bars too.

 

Hi guys

I'm new to the forum. I'm considering buying a 2002 Superhawk, but I'm concerned about the ergos being a bit too extreme for me. This thread is just what I was looking for, but, here's my dumb question - how do I get the photos that are attached to the thread to display?

Also, any advice on the hawk would be much appreciated.

Thanks

thebeav

 

We had a server crash earlier this year and some of the photos in the threads were disassociated. This may find itself worked out at a later date but for now they are lost. You may contact the thread's originator and ask them to repost the pictures to the thread.

 

Would love photos!!!

Scott

 

+1

Anyone feel like going out and taking some pics? I'd like to see how the look on the VTR.

 

It may take a week or so but we should have some pictures up soon. My understanding is that the locating "spurs" do not match the Superhawk triple and have to ground away. Oh boo! Grinding? yuk!

FYI the Helis don't have pins at all.

While Erik was home he bought VFR bars but got the years wrong. I think they were 2002-04 bars which were too tall for the windshield fairing. He trimmed the fairing slightly and they work perfectly.