After sitting for a couple of months my bike wouldn't idle and ran very ruff at low speeds. I pulled the tank, changed the air filter. The two little filter no longer existed. (looked like they had evaporated). New plugs. All this hoping to get around jetting. Loaded up with SeaFoam and ran it a few times. Better but still not right. Hadn't had a chance to run it again for a couple of weeks. Had to start it using full choke and had to leave it out to keep it running. Again, low speed running very ruff and had to keep blipping to keep it up. On the highway, into the throttle, it's ok. As soon as I let off, it dies. So, I guess it't time for a jet kit. Threads say Factory pro is the one to use. I've read the "How To" for rejetting. I also see the "additional things needed" thread. This one says a carb sync is mandatory if you rejet. Is that necessary?
It's a 98 with 15K miles on it. I've done the rectifier swap and installed Trucks CCT's so I think I can follow instructions for the carbs. So, the bottom line is this; Does it sound like it needs a jet kit? Is the Factory pro kit all inclusive? If I pull the carbs to do the kit, is this forcing me to perform any other tasks? if so, which ones? Sync , TPS.
Thanks for any input.

 

Sounds like you need to pull your carbs and clean up the low speed needles instead of throwing other jets into it. You should be proficient at the TPS adjustment as well as synching the carbs.

 

Forcing? No... other than the sync which ought to be done whenever the carbs are pulled. Mostly the other stuff is recommended cause you're in there anyway.

Do you "need a jet kit"? nope to that too. Sounds like you need to clean carbs. Did it all work to your satisfaction before? If so then forget the kit.

You should get those little filters replaced.

 

Thanks guys. I guess "forced" was a bit much. I meant that if I pulled them to clean or re-jet did it become necessary to have it run right. Yes, up until the time it wasn't being ridden regularly, it ran fine. It does have a set of Two Brothers pipes but I bought it with them. I did replace the little filters. I kind of think the way they disintegrated, may be some of the problem. Is there a best way to clean the needles?

 

Diassemble the carbs , clean all the jets (pilot , main ) . Spray all orifices in the carburetor housing .You can use carb / choke cleaner or brake cleaner . Do not spray anything on the slide / diaphragm assembly as the rubber will swell and lose its shape . Remove the fuel screws counting how many turns out they are and jot this down to remember this for reassembly (they are 2 3/4 turns OEM ) . Also remove the float valves ( do not spray with any cleaners as well) and floats . Clean the entire housing and all the jets , reassemble and you are good . Also there are small o-rings , springs , and washers underneath the fuel screws , they are very small and can be lost very easily . Remove all of this for cleaning (of the housing orifice not these pieces , just set these aside ) and refer to your service manual for proper orientation upon reassembly . The needles shouldnt need cleaning , just inspect them to make sure they are set up correctly and check for any scoring or wear .

 

Also when removing fuel screws turn clockwise counting revolutions till lightly seated . Then remove fuel screws , when reinstalling turn clockwise till lightly seated and turn out the screws to the previous counted revolutions . Also it may be necessary to soak the jets if any are clogged .

 

Not sure exactly what you mean by remove the throttle valves.....

Otherwise the things you need to be careful of are:

The emulsion tubes are different from front to rear, so don't get them mixed up.

Also if it has the stock needles, they are different front to rear also.

The filters coming apart may be causing the slides to stick, so make sure you clean the bodies very well.

 

I actually meant float valve . I stand corrected . Thanks .

 

Thanks for the info. Will I need to replace any of the gaskets? This is mentioned by someone on another thread. He says if you open the carbs the gaskets need to be replaced.

 

Always a good idea to prevent fuel leaks.

 

The float bowl gaskets are reusable, if they are still pliable. I've had mine apart 3 times with the original gaskets. Otherwise they can be ordered for about $13 each at the dealer.

Make sure you soak the pilot (slow) jets in carb spray to dissolve all the crap that plugs them up. Then blow out with more carb spray followed by compressed air.

If you remove the pilot screws, you should clean the tips of them as well.

Disassemble and reassemble one carb at a time to prevent mixing parts.