So....a TSP detects nothing at idle?? I don't believe this at all. Shouldn't it monitor all the RPM range.....and then adjust to engine fuel control/consumption needs? All this in the long run,
a product of timeing and air/fuel needs?

I looked through the maint manual and saw no functional tests as you described. Unplugging and replugging any electronic unit on a running bike can't be good. Surge=spike in power=chance of burnt parts.
So ,no disconnection and reconnection happening here.

Not attempting to start a fight here.....just wanting to understand my bike.

Mike

 

Page 17-8. "Operation Inspection"

Its a carburated system. In this system, the TPS acts as a trigger for the electronic advance.

 

see page17-8 for the 3500rpm test.

 

Looked at the pages you mentioned.....guess what....It's there

Still not to sure on the pluggging in of a "hot" wire into a variable resistor....the TPS.
I didn't realize the coolant temp sensor was in the loop too.

Mike

 

I experimented with the ECT. Changing resistance feed to the module.
(Some gains were found on fuel injected cars)
Dosen't seem to work as a tuning tool on the shawk though.
Photos came out in reverse sequice.

~Jeffers

 

Mine, an '02 was set at 850 ohms, I set it to 500 and it does run smoother at idle and 1st gear takeoff.

 

It's confusing to me this thread is back up. The latest thing I read a while ago was how everyone was undoing this 'mod' because of an overall power loss.

If I may be so bold, my guess is there are REAL gains to be had by advancing the base timming, and leaving the advance curve where it is? Ideally you can change the advance curve itself, but since this is likely difficult... does anyone know where the crank/cam position sensor is? I'd imaging advancing that 2-8 degrees and leave the TPS at 450-500 ohms would give you more power everywhere without quite so much pinging on the low end.

I know since I adjusted mine to 500 (by bending the tabs! No slotting necisary) it knocks/pings less at idle and off idle when cold - telling me there really IS a timming change made due to the adjustment. I suppose one could unbolt the sensor, idle the bike, turn it and watch a timming light to see what's really going on. It's not rocket science. :-P
________
SILVERSURFER VAPORIZER

 

Nice work, BTW. What resistance did you use? I have some pots you could try, turn it on the road to get sequential runs at different amounts of offset.
________
Nevada Dispensary

 

I have done this modification on 31 Super Hawks to date.
You must sync and reset idle before attempting the modifictaion. If your idle is set too high or too low before you begin the final idle value on the TPS will be off. As for the 500 ohm value, as far as I am concerened this is a good "starting point" In oder to get the timing curve you want in the ECM 500 ohms at idle seems to produce the most steady curve on a stock Super Hawk. I have been fine tuning these adjustements now for several years. I have found on stage one jetted carbs with a full flowing exhaust there is a sweet spot on the dyno when my TPS at idle is between 430 - 440 ohms. Keep in mind this is using the stock TPS sensor and it assumes your TPS is not failing. As for readings at different RPMs each TPS can be off as much as 8% throught the RPM range. the 430-440 ohm idle setting is a average based on trial and error and years of tuning.

Mike
CTSmoto

 

I tried this adjustment this past summer on my VTR (if I recall the original reading was 837 ohms, re-set to @ 490). After having run the bike for a period of about two weeks here were my findings: virtually no difference in engine smoothness or fuel economy, softer power delivery (bottom end and mid-range, lacked that "hit" I had grown to love so much). So, after giving it what I thought was a fair and honest evaluation (on MY bike, can't speak for others), I returned to the previous setting and was much happier as my throttle response and roll-on power was back up to what I was used to.
cheers

 

FIRST POST!
Although I have had a VTR since they first started making them I have never tried this adjustment.... I did hear about it a couple of years ago on another forum as a good way to increase gas mileage but not many people here seem to have mentioned this. So, does it help mileage? I'd be interested to know. Other than that I am completely happy with how my bike is running and problably won't try the adjustment.
BTW, I used to buy a new bike every three years but have been faithful to the VTR since '97! They must be great bikes!

 

No.

 

Hi! I just bought my VTR a few months ago and have been experiencing rough idle and poor response when off-idle, also the plugs are always black with soot.
I want to try this adjustment for the TPS, can you provide me a new link for the detailed instructions on how to do this? I cant seem to open the link posted here. Thanks!

 

Get a Honda manual, it's outlined in detail there. You'll want it anyway!

 

Not to beat a dead horse (or Superhawk in this case), however, I found this at the Factory Pro (the jet kit people) site... http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh77.html

1. It's common to find them set at 800 to 900 ohms.
2. If the TPS is not set correctly, IDLE and CRUISE quality will be poor / too rich.
3. It may be necessary to remove the brass collar.
4. Use 5mm x 12mm to replace torx bolts.

Here is a link to a manual you can download (the picture shows a Haynes manual but actually downloads the factory Honda manual)

http://xfer.gofastvideo.com/gallery/...03VTR1000F.zip

 

Thanks for the the info on the throttle adjustment! The link for the service manual was very helpful too. Now my VTR is running a bit better off-idle, but I still suspect that it is still running rich because there is black smoke coming from the pipes when i rev the engine, is this normal with the VTR? Or can I cure this by carb synch and airscrew adjustments?

Thanks guys!!

 

I don't know if a carb sync will help. Mine doesn't smoke like you describe. However, I know I'm a bit rich as I can smell "fuel" when I swap bikes with a friend and I follow my bike. I'm running a #50 pilot jet and stock mains (the typical Factory Pro jet kit). There is a consensus (maybe this is a stretch ) that a stock bike with slip-ons and a jet kit runs better with a #48 pilot. In all other respects my bike runs well.

 

Actually I'm all for the stock #45 idle jet. I have straight through Hindle slipons, removed the restriction in the exhaust, running a K&N filter, and have good carburetion all the way through the rpm band. I would suggest a #48 with a full system, but not a slipon.

If you think the bike is running rich, you need to let us/me know WHERE it's running rich. There are three fueling circuits in CV carbs - idle, needle, and main. What rpm range? You should be able to tell because the acceleration will be "soft" in that area.

 

Hi Greg! my bike, as they call it hunts, on the 1500-3000rpm range but above that it runs fine, the idle also runs at 1200 and at some times it runs at 1500 without me doing any adjustments. At idle I can see very little smoke from the pipes but when you rev it hard while standing still black smoke will come out of the pipes. Smoke also comes out when I accelerate full throttle on 1st and 2nd gears. But when cruising at any gear or at any rpm you wont see smoke. My bike gets around 10kms/liter at city and 13kms/liter on highway.

 

Roisman,

What mods have been done to your bike? Aftermarket exhaust? Jet kit? Filter? Also what's the altitude where you live?

I suspect based on what you describe that either your idle mixture screw or idle jet are too rich. Maybe adjusting the needles one notch lower would help as well.

 

Hi Greg! Not very sure about the altitude in our place but there has been no mods to the engine as I know of and I'm still using the stock pipes

 

I know I've posted pics as well as other in threads on how to do this. Try a search. Also shimming the stock needles with a washer completely solved a low end stumble on my bike. The tps helped but didn't solve it.

And with this reply at 9:18 cst, I have single handedly filled the entire front page with replies. My work is done here. :-)

 

superbling, what key words would be helpful in searching? thanks!

 

Roisman,

I gotta ask one more question: How many miles?

With a stock bike, I suspect three things: (1) Mixture screws need to be adjusted to 1.5-1.75 turns out. (2) Carbs need to be synchronized, and (3) you need to check/replace your air filter.

Lemme know what you find.

 

Hi! mileage is probably at 19k or 20k, synch is good, airscrew adjustent is good, put in new filter, but still the same performance. Anyway I am having the carbs pulled out this weekend, let you know what we find out. Thanks!!

 

Hmm, I dunno then. I'm all tapped out of ideas.