TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
03-22-2005 | 05:23 PM
#1
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Superstock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 296
From: East Cleveland
TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
i know... redundancy is my middle name. 
i see the concentric circle rings on the things holdin the tps to the carb body. .... i made a "flathead" screwdriver in the one, tried to turn it and it didnt work... i can grind the s#$t out of all the rings if need be... just dont know which ones.(SEE PIC BELOW) after this, are these 3-4 concentric ring things useless? and i use the 5mm bolts instead? or do i need all the rings for later? i touched the top and middle pins in the tps boby that the harness plugs into.... it read 854 on the ohm scale! well , help me out here buddy, thanks A LOT ! ! ! i just wanna get the screws out, but dont know what to scrap or keep. the screw thats lower, towards the rear tire... thats gonna be impossible. i can get the dremel in there to make a slot for a flathead screwdriver, but then need to buy a flexy snake screwdriver. a 90 degree drill attachment aint gonna fit... the knuckle is the size of a large golf ball! buy tools from LOWES , return then when done... priceless.
i see the concentric circle rings on the things holdin the tps to the carb body. .... i made a "flathead" screwdriver in the one, tried to turn it and it didnt work... i can grind the s#$t out of all the rings if need be... just dont know which ones.(SEE PIC BELOW) after this, are these 3-4 concentric ring things useless? and i use the 5mm bolts instead? or do i need all the rings for later? i touched the top and middle pins in the tps boby that the harness plugs into.... it read 854 on the ohm scale! well , help me out here buddy, thanks A LOT ! ! ! i just wanna get the screws out, but dont know what to scrap or keep. the screw thats lower, towards the rear tire... thats gonna be impossible. i can get the dremel in there to make a slot for a flathead screwdriver, but then need to buy a flexy snake screwdriver. a 90 degree drill attachment aint gonna fit... the knuckle is the size of a large golf ball! buy tools from LOWES , return then when done... priceless.
03-22-2005 | 08:52 PM
#2
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Nooksack WA
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
You can use a ball-shaped grinding stone in the Dremel. Aim at the center and start grinding. You will grind the head off the tamperproof screw. The threads are right under the center ring. It takes 5 minutes or so to grind the head off. Your reading is consistent with my own and the author of the original tech-tip. You are on the path! Have faith and you will be well rewarded.
03-22-2005 | 09:06 PM
#3
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From: South Texas
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
I used a dremel to cut a slot. Here's what it looks like. Not all that different from yours. Notice the blue paint is "broken". REMEMBER: the bolt has locktite on it so use the proper size blade screwdriver and tap it in the new groove a couple of times to help break the bond. It will snap loose.
03-22-2005 | 09:32 PM
#4
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From: East Cleveland
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
OK, SOUNDS GOOD... but how are you getting to the bolt closer to the rear tire?!?!?!i mean i can dremel it.. and i saw the blue crap slat on it... but, HOW DO I UNSCREW IT? im assuming i need to get one of those 12" long snake sockets to curve around.. . but i hope i have enough torque to turn it correctly. so once i turn them, i turn it all the way out and remove it? then ill see some goodies inside of it ? then what?> can i hurt the outer ring or not? i just wanna know if i need to keep any brass on the bolt.. help! thanks!!!!
03-22-2005 | 09:44 PM
#5
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From: Nooksack WA
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
The TPS will come off in your hand and the two screw stubs are easily removed by hand. The screw stub is even accessible from the back side if you were desperate. The stubs are only finger tight since the head that holds the tensio is gone. Try to control your grinding to the center as much as possible. The outter ring is a washer and grinding there accomplishes nothing. Make sure that none of the abrasive dust goes in to open hoses.
03-22-2005 | 10:24 PM
#6
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From: South Texas
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
I pulled the carbs from the intake tracts but didn't remove them from the bike, just layed them over to better get at the TPS. Take the tank and airbox off; about 15 minutes but it will greatly ease the process. I think it would be impossible to do this otherwise.
03-23-2005 | 10:26 AM
#7
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From: East Cleveland
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
superbling... sounds a little too crazy for me! lol, ill just grind the **** out of the center and hope for the best.... i just gotta try and reach that damn one closer to the rear tire.... the frame i tell you!! ARRR 
gotta go try! brb . oh and the tps TOP AND MIDDLE pins read at 852 ! ! ! 
BTW... pulled my plugs out... nasty black from 2 threads of the plug and up to the center electrode. wreaked like gas... and center electrode was flat. maybe thats causin porblems.. so i replaced those with iridium ix's, but i put anti-seize lube on em and it felt like i could turn them forever, but ofcourse didnt. what kind of torque or turn allow if i have the lube on?
gotta go try! brb . oh and the tps TOP AND MIDDLE pins read at 852 ! ! ! BTW... pulled my plugs out... nasty black from 2 threads of the plug and up to the center electrode. wreaked like gas... and center electrode was flat. maybe thats causin porblems.. so i replaced those with iridium ix's, but i put anti-seize lube on em and it felt like i could turn them forever, but ofcourse didnt. what kind of torque or turn allow if i have the lube on?
03-23-2005 | 12:39 PM
#8
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From: South Texas
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
Dude, trust me on this. Pull the carbs out of the boots, you don't need to remove them from the bike, etc. Plug the boots with clean rags. You will need working room not only to get at the damn bolts (as you're finding out) but later when you mount it back up, you'll need to rotate the TPS to get it into the correct adjustment range. Once there, tightening the bolts back down will sometimes move the TPS throwing it back out of range.
To pull the tank: remove seat and unbolt the rear first, remove the hoses (take a pic if need be), none or very little gas will come out, then remove the two bolts near the upper triple. Airbox is simply a whole bunch of phillips head screws (use a power screwdriver if at all possible) and some hoses on the bottom (pretty self-explanatory). Plug the carb openings with clean rags as Murphy never sleeps!
Sparkplugs, finger tight then 1/4 to 1/3 turn with wrench.
To pull the tank: remove seat and unbolt the rear first, remove the hoses (take a pic if need be), none or very little gas will come out, then remove the two bolts near the upper triple. Airbox is simply a whole bunch of phillips head screws (use a power screwdriver if at all possible) and some hoses on the bottom (pretty self-explanatory). Plug the carb openings with clean rags as Murphy never sleeps!
Sparkplugs, finger tight then 1/4 to 1/3 turn with wrench.
03-23-2005 | 01:51 PM
#9
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From: East Cleveland
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
bling, ok man, i got all that done, lol, but pulling the carbs... hmmm, sounds fun. heres a pic of what im lookin at now, so i already got the airbox, pair control valve, etc., off, just can ya tell me what bolts to remove to pull it from its "boot" ? you know, the carbs? thanks buddy, bare with me, you guys got me this far!!! beers on me? :wink:
03-23-2005 | 02:23 PM
#10
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From: South Texas
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
The carbs connect to the motor via rubber boots. There are two clamps on each boot. Get a long phillips and loosen the upper one that clamps the carb to the boot. The boots are VERY form fitting and the carbs will literally pop when you pull them off. TIP: apply some suitable lubricant to the carbs when reinstalling and they will go back on much easier. Leaks are a bad thing.
You do not need to remove anything else on the carbs as there is enough slack (barely) to turn them on the side to get at the TPS. If you need to adjust the needles or do the "shim mod" now is a REAL GOOD time to do that too.
You do not need to remove anything else on the carbs as there is enough slack (barely) to turn them on the side to get at the TPS. If you need to adjust the needles or do the "shim mod" now is a REAL GOOD time to do that too.
03-23-2005 | 05:19 PM
#11
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Northeast Ohio
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
When I did mine all I used was a long screwdriver. I placed the tip on the washer and tapped on the handle with I think a 1/2" wrench. It wasn't a hammer. All it took was a couple of taps to loosen. Then it was easy to remove with my fingers. I had to remove rings in TPS to get mine within specs. I also got my readings from the ecm plug under the tail section.It was alot easier than trying to probing the contacts on the TPS. Did not have to remove tank. Perfect replacement screws came from a GL1500 Gold Wing fairing pocket mounting screw. Phillips screw with a nice large flat washer attached. One thing that I have never read about this adjustment is that before you start the job make sure you idle speed is within specs. Change your idle speed and you will change the TPS ohm reading. I beleive that is why they are set so high from the factory. After the engine gets loosened up you generally have to back the idle down which would lower the TPS ohm reading. One more bit of advice---spring for a Factory(Honda) shop manual.
03-23-2005 | 06:16 PM
#12
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From: East Cleveland
Re: TPS !?!?!? i feel like its PMS! ! !
thanks guys for the tips. i got the bastard out! kinda mad i JUST found out about the "knowing the idle speed" thing, seeing how i was playin with it last time i was out. oh well, guess ill have to pull it again. that leaves me another excuse to mod something else though! woo hoo thanks again
03-25-2005 | 11:44 AM
#13
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SuperSport
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 758
From: Laurel, MD
I don't really know anything about this mod, but I did check mine today and it was spot on to spec. So I checked my thermometer and it was also spot on to the 68 degrees indicated in the shop manual. Does anyone know the relationship between temps and readings?
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