TPS Adjustment
04-19-2010 | 09:02 PM
#3
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,934
From: altoona, pa
04-20-2010 | 04:37 AM
#4
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 110
From: Portugal
Those pictures are really important and made all the diference.
Without them i´m not doing it, and i´d like very much to give it a go.
04-20-2010 | 05:40 AM
#5
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,978
From: thorold ontario
its quite simple to do, i have to yank my airbox again to adjust the tps again in the next couple weeks ill be sure to take pictures of the process and ill post up the missing ones. once you get the airbox off you see the tps and its easy to figure out from there 
04-20-2010 | 06:13 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 227
From: IL
04-20-2010 | 06:25 AM
#7
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,978
From: thorold ontario
When I did mine I didn't remove it. I took my dremel tool and I slotted the bolts that holdit in place and took them out one at a time with a screwdriver. Replaced them one at a time to keep from removing it and then I hooked up my ohm meter to it and turned it till I got to the right reading. Once you look at it its very simple. Also I have to bend the tab on mine because I couldn't turn it down far enough.
04-20-2010 | 06:25 AM
#8
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,934
From: altoona, pa
Important things to remember:
1) it helps to have another set of hands the first time you do it.
2) losen rubbers and pull carbs up and tilt to left to be able to access TPS.
3)pretend you're getting ready to do brain surgery.
4)dremel a slot in the TPS sheer bolts for a flat screwdriver, or tap and drill and use a small chisel to remove fasteners.
5)have a beer.
6)find some tiny spade connecters or bend a larger one to fit the spades in the TPS. This makes it easier to touch the leads when using the multimeter.
7)If you're electrically challenged like me, get a digital multimeter and set it at 2000ohm for testing.
1) it helps to have another set of hands the first time you do it.
2) losen rubbers and pull carbs up and tilt to left to be able to access TPS.
3)pretend you're getting ready to do brain surgery.
4)dremel a slot in the TPS sheer bolts for a flat screwdriver, or tap and drill and use a small chisel to remove fasteners.
5)have a beer.
6)find some tiny spade connecters or bend a larger one to fit the spades in the TPS. This makes it easier to touch the leads when using the multimeter.
7)If you're electrically challenged like me, get a digital multimeter and set it at 2000ohm for testing.
04-20-2010 | 06:38 AM
#9
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 667
From: NY State
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=9876
You do not remove the TPS (unless you can't get a 500 Ohm setting). If you are not comfortable with the procedure, then you should have a dealer do it. JB
04-20-2010 | 06:43 AM
#10
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,934
From: altoona, pa
Important things to remember:
1) it helps to have another set of hands the first time you do it.
2) losen rubbers and pull carbs up and tilt to left to be able to access TPS.
3)pretend you're getting ready to do brain surgery.
4)dremel a slot in the TPS sheer bolts for a flat screwdriver, or tap and drill and use a small chisel to remove fasteners.
5)have a beer.
6)find some tiny spade connecters or bend a larger one to fit the spades in the TPS. This makes it easier to touch the leads when using the multimeter.
7)If you're electrically challenged like me, get a digital multimeter and set it at 2000ohm for testing.
8)have a beer.
9)touch leads to top and middle spade connectors you have attached to the top and middle spades/prongs in the TPS.
10)turn counterclockwise to reduce, clockwise to increase reading.
11)Should be able to hold around 500 ohms and turn throttle and increase multimeter reading(see what i mean about another set of hands).
12) Likely will have to bend downward facing tab downward with a strong grip on a needlenose pliars. This will allow you to get below 500ohms.
13) a couple little bolts and flat washers, maybe a little locktite to secure TPS. No need to crank on it.
14) keep clean paper towels in carbs and engine holes to keep from dropping anything in during entire teardown and install.
15) use flashlight and magnet to remove and insert screws at front top of airbox cover. Hahaha, too many beers and/or deteriorating eyesight.
1) it helps to have another set of hands the first time you do it.
2) losen rubbers and pull carbs up and tilt to left to be able to access TPS.
3)pretend you're getting ready to do brain surgery.
4)dremel a slot in the TPS sheer bolts for a flat screwdriver, or tap and drill and use a small chisel to remove fasteners.
5)have a beer.
6)find some tiny spade connecters or bend a larger one to fit the spades in the TPS. This makes it easier to touch the leads when using the multimeter.
7)If you're electrically challenged like me, get a digital multimeter and set it at 2000ohm for testing.
8)have a beer.
9)touch leads to top and middle spade connectors you have attached to the top and middle spades/prongs in the TPS.
10)turn counterclockwise to reduce, clockwise to increase reading.
11)Should be able to hold around 500 ohms and turn throttle and increase multimeter reading(see what i mean about another set of hands).
12) Likely will have to bend downward facing tab downward with a strong grip on a needlenose pliars. This will allow you to get below 500ohms.
13) a couple little bolts and flat washers, maybe a little locktite to secure TPS. No need to crank on it.
14) keep clean paper towels in carbs and engine holes to keep from dropping anything in during entire teardown and install.
15) use flashlight and magnet to remove and insert screws at front top of airbox cover. Hahaha, too many beers and/or deteriorating eyesight.
04-20-2010 | 07:08 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 227
From: IL
When I did mine I didn't remove it. I took my dremel tool and I slotted the bolts that holdit in place and took them out one at a time with a screwdriver. Replaced them one at a time to keep from removing it and then I hooked up my ohm meter to it and turned it till I got to the right reading. Once you look at it its very simple. Also I have to bend the tab on mine because I couldn't turn it down far enough.
I'm going to work on this tonight, I'm hoping to just use some pliers/vice grips to get the bolts off, that way I won't have to drill anything!
04-20-2010 | 07:34 AM
#12
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 110
From: Portugal
If you´re going to do it tonight maybe you could take a few pictures of the tricky part (including any dificulty or question) so we could learn how to do it and you get any needed help from those who have don it. Ok?
04-20-2010 | 07:42 AM
#13
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 388
From: Muskego,WI
its really simple...
step 1 - take a dremel and make slots in the bolts that hold the TPS on.
Step 2 - use a screw driver to loosen these bolts ( dont remove as I recall)
step 3 - hook an OHM meter up to the prongs listed in the manual
step 4 - rotate the TPS on the bolts till the ohm meter reads 500ish and tighten the bolts back up.
step 1 - take a dremel and make slots in the bolts that hold the TPS on.
Step 2 - use a screw driver to loosen these bolts ( dont remove as I recall)
step 3 - hook an OHM meter up to the prongs listed in the manual
step 4 - rotate the TPS on the bolts till the ohm meter reads 500ish and tighten the bolts back up.
04-20-2010 | 07:48 AM
#14
Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 86
From: Detroit, MI
I just did this Sunday. If you get a long chisel/ sharp screwdriver, you can tap it with a hammer and get them loose. Once they are a little loose, they'll come right out without having to drill. I only loosened the tank and it gave me enough room to access the TPS. If you have that U-shaped allen wrench in the factory tool kit, you use it to hold the rear of the tank up a little. The picture sucks, but you get the idea of being able to get to it without having to remove all that other stuff. Odds are, you'll have to remove the TPS, bend the lower most tab out a little (on bike, not on TPS) and then make sure the pin on the TPS is centered between the 2 tabs on the throttle shaft when you reinstall it. Be sure to check that resistance increases smoothly when you throttle up and that it comes back to your original reading at idle. GTG.
04-20-2010 | 09:33 AM
#18
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 834
From: Nooksack WA
Rather than bend the tab to get to 500 ohms, I removed the TPS. Once removed, it is simple to slip out the metal spacers that the screws bite when tight and use a round file to increase the length of the adjustment slot in the body of the TPS.
04-20-2010 | 12:14 PM
#19
Member
Squid
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 86
From: Detroit, MI
Could do that too. Just a lot easier to bend the 1 tab a little.
Last edited by alwayshonda; 04-20-2010 at 12:16 PM.
04-20-2010 | 12:56 PM
#20
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,451
From: San Clemente, CA
Important things to remember:
1) it helps to have another set of hands the first time you do it.
2) losen rubbers and pull carbs up and tilt to left to be able to access TPS.
3)pretend you're getting ready to do brain surgery.
4)dremel a slot in the TPS sheer bolts for a flat screwdriver, or tap and drill and use a small chisel to remove fasteners.
5)have a beer.
6)find some tiny spade connecters or bend a larger one to fit the spades in the TPS. This makes it easier to touch the leads when using the multimeter.
7)If you're electrically challenged like me, get a digital multimeter and set it at 2000ohm for testing.
8)have a beer.
9)touch leads to top and middle spade connectors you have attached to the top and middle spades/prongs in the TPS.
10)turn counterclockwise to reduce, clockwise to increase reading.
11)Should be able to hold around 500 ohms and turn throttle and increase multimeter reading(see what i mean about another set of hands).
12) Likely will have to bend downward facing tab downward with a strong grip on a needlenose pliars. This will allow you to get below 500ohms.
13) a couple little bolts and flat washers, maybe a little locktite to secure TPS. No need to crank on it.
14) keep clean paper towels in carbs and engine holes to keep from dropping anything in during entire teardown and install.
15) use flashlight and magnet to remove and insert screws at front top of airbox cover. Hahaha, too many beers and/or deteriorating eyesight.
1) it helps to have another set of hands the first time you do it.
2) losen rubbers and pull carbs up and tilt to left to be able to access TPS.
3)pretend you're getting ready to do brain surgery.
4)dremel a slot in the TPS sheer bolts for a flat screwdriver, or tap and drill and use a small chisel to remove fasteners.
5)have a beer.
6)find some tiny spade connecters or bend a larger one to fit the spades in the TPS. This makes it easier to touch the leads when using the multimeter.
7)If you're electrically challenged like me, get a digital multimeter and set it at 2000ohm for testing.
8)have a beer.
9)touch leads to top and middle spade connectors you have attached to the top and middle spades/prongs in the TPS.
10)turn counterclockwise to reduce, clockwise to increase reading.
11)Should be able to hold around 500 ohms and turn throttle and increase multimeter reading(see what i mean about another set of hands).
12) Likely will have to bend downward facing tab downward with a strong grip on a needlenose pliars. This will allow you to get below 500ohms.
13) a couple little bolts and flat washers, maybe a little locktite to secure TPS. No need to crank on it.
14) keep clean paper towels in carbs and engine holes to keep from dropping anything in during entire teardown and install.
15) use flashlight and magnet to remove and insert screws at front top of airbox cover. Hahaha, too many beers and/or deteriorating eyesight.
Then go take an 8 hour nap before the test ride.
04-21-2010 | 04:50 AM
#22
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,934
From: altoona, pa
At very least, if you do the TPS to 500+-10ohms, you have essentially eliminated that as a possible culprit for symptoms like backfiring, stumbling, etc., except for one member who moved his back to out of spec position because it ran better there.
04-28-2010 | 07:35 PM
#27
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 226
From: Corpus Christi, TX
Not to hijack or anything...but just looking for some clarification. I worked on this the other day, got the bolts switched out and in doing so the tps with the spring and little plastic pin came flying out. I lost the pin and the spring under the coolant reservoir (word to the wise, put something there so your **** don't fall in the hole!) ended up taking the front fairings off to fish them out, UGH. put it all back together and got 333 ohms. took it off again, and set the spring with a little more tension. 546 ohms. but the thing is when I rev it up to 5-6k rpm I get no increase in resistance. am I not revving it up high enough? or is the tps not functioning properly? oh and no difference from before i did the "adjustment"
04-28-2010 | 07:41 PM
#28
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 667
From: NY State
I think it may have gotten messed up, getting a reading of 333 is unheard of with an unaltered TPS. Might be time to look for a new one - see if any of the guys parting their bikes out on the classified might have one for sale.
04-28-2010 | 08:18 PM
#30
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 226
From: Corpus Christi, TX
you know how there are 3 notches inside the tps for the spring to rest on to create the proper resistance though? I think when I put it all back together the first time i did it wrong. I was guessing how I thought it should go back together and I think I must I put it on the wrong notch, which made it that low...unless it is just a busted unit. is there no possible way to have a resistance that low with any adjustment of the tps?
