Tire Suggestions?
05-30-2009 | 07:59 PM
#1
Thread Starter
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 265
From: West Coast, SoCal Inland
Tire Suggestions?
Hi i just bought a 98 superhawk. i am a first time rider, switching over from dirt bikes to street bikes. Ive seen nothing but great comments about the SuperHawk 996 so i am looking forward to getting some great advice from you seasoned riders here on Superhawkforum.com..
A little back ground on the bike..tires were given to the last owner for free from a friend. The tires were new but used at the track. Both sides are worn considerably. Old owners puts new tires on goes for a ride on the freeway and as he is getting into the number one lane he hits a reflector on the ground as he is accelerating front tires comes off the ground and the bars start slapping from side to side(he thinks he is going to die) he gets the bike back under control before it goes down and he becomes part of the pavement but now he parks the bike in the garage.. now i am the new owner.
He tells me prior to mounting those worn on the side brand new track tires from his friend he never had any issues like the one mentioned. he suggest replacing the tire before i really start riding the NEW TO me bike.
What tires do you guys suggest for me to get on this bike.. and do you think the issue was all tires that was described? or should i be worried about something else mechanical?
Thank you for any input.
A little back ground on the bike..tires were given to the last owner for free from a friend. The tires were new but used at the track. Both sides are worn considerably. Old owners puts new tires on goes for a ride on the freeway and as he is getting into the number one lane he hits a reflector on the ground as he is accelerating front tires comes off the ground and the bars start slapping from side to side(he thinks he is going to die) he gets the bike back under control before it goes down and he becomes part of the pavement but now he parks the bike in the garage.. now i am the new owner.
He tells me prior to mounting those worn on the side brand new track tires from his friend he never had any issues like the one mentioned. he suggest replacing the tire before i really start riding the NEW TO me bike.
What tires do you guys suggest for me to get on this bike.. and do you think the issue was all tires that was described? or should i be worried about something else mechanical?
Thank you for any input.
05-30-2009 | 09:22 PM
#2
Senior Member
Superstock
Superstock
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 321
Track day tires are never any good after they come off, otherwise the guy would've kept them. I just went with Bridgestone Bt-21's and they're great. The bike feels really good with really good feel, they're a little heavy so above 60mph steering feels a little heavy but that's ok by me. There are tires with more overall traction (Bt-014, Dunlop Qualifiers, Michelin Pilot Powers, etc.) but the research I did has me expecting 7-8k miles out of these. They were the lease expensive tires with a good rep to boot.
05-30-2009 | 10:00 PM
#4
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 213
From: Pac NW
I like Pilot Powers by Michelin. You can get a set mail ordered to you for under $300 shipped. An independent shop had them for 125 front and 155 rear. Course you have to get them mouned and balanced unless you do that yourself.
Mileage will not be good. Around 3000 miles. My bike is more of a toy so I want sticky tires over mileage. Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs are their latest offering and are about 15% more. Pilot Roads offer higher mileage and stick pretty well. I have those on another bike.
Mileage will not be good. Around 3000 miles. My bike is more of a toy so I want sticky tires over mileage. Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs are their latest offering and are about 15% more. Pilot Roads offer higher mileage and stick pretty well. I have those on another bike.
05-31-2009 | 08:05 AM
#6
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 286
From: texas
i got a set of dunlop qualifiers in febuary that are now toast within the first oil change. thes bikes are hell on rear tires. i dont pop wheelies or do burn out and i got maybee 3200 miles out of my tires. i will be going the SHINKO route. ill be ordering some 009 ravens and post a review. if the shinko tires will last twice as long and handle my driving style then ill be a convert. two sets of shinkos will cost me ruffly the same as one set of my beloved qualifiers. but with this bike i would be spending close to a thousand dallors a year for tires and im just not going to pay that much for rubber. oh and please get some aftermarket cam chain tensioners if ther not allready on there.
Last edited by cameron; 05-31-2009 at 08:07 AM.
05-31-2009 | 08:26 AM
#7
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,051
From: Portland, Oregon
Track day tires are never any good after they come off, otherwise the guy would've kept them. I just went with Bridgestone Bt-21's and they're great. The bike feels really good with really good feel, they're a little heavy so above 60mph steering feels a little heavy but that's ok by me. There are tires with more overall traction (Bt-014, Dunlop Qualifiers, Michelin Pilot Powers, etc.) but the research I did has me expecting 7-8k miles out of these. They were the lease expensive tires with a good rep to boot.
that is just flat out wrong. old track tires or 'take offs' CAN be a great street tire. it's what i usually run. i even will run an A group trackday on a good set. the described tank slapper has nothing to do with the tire imo.
racers sell the take-offs not because they're shot but because they 'may' not handle another session at race pace.
the difference in grip from a race DOT tire is just in another league vs. a street tire... even a good take-off.
tim
Last edited by trinc; 05-31-2009 at 08:29 AM.
05-31-2009 | 01:14 PM
#9
Thread Starter
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 265
From: West Coast, SoCal Inland
05-31-2009 | 02:18 PM
#10
Member
Squid
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 99
05-31-2009 | 03:01 PM
#11
Thread Starter
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 265
From: West Coast, SoCal Inland
05-31-2009 | 05:26 PM
#12
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 224
From: Hills of Kentucky
On my new to me 01 hawk, I put Metzler M3's at the suggestion of my GXSR bud. I love 'em. Don't know what the mileage will end up being but I've already got 1700 on 'em and they haven't changed, except the chicken strips are gettin' shorter. 
I'm learnin'.
I'm learnin'.
06-08-2009 | 08:19 AM
#14
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,051
From: Portland, Oregon
in the case above, after lifting the front going over the reflector he turned the handlebars or let the handlebars turn.
when this happens the front tire will try to correct the position but overcompensate... then do it again but the other direction, overcompensate... etc. etc.
a steering damper will help as it adds resistance but the best thing ( if possible ) is to get hard on the gas to lighten the front end reducing the severity. then it should correct itself.
tim
06-08-2009 | 08:59 AM
#15
2nd mouse gets the cheese
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,697
From: Beaverton, OR
a 'tank slapper' is caused by the front tire lifting off the ground & then dropping back down to the ground with the tire out of line with the rear tire.
in the case above, after lifting the front going over the reflector he turned the handlebars or let the handlebars turn.
when this happens the front tire will try to correct the position but overcompensate... then do it again but the other direction, overcompensate... etc. etc.
a steering damper will help as it adds resistance but the best thing ( if possible ) is to get hard on the gas to lighten the front end reducing the severity. then it should correct itself.
tim
in the case above, after lifting the front going over the reflector he turned the handlebars or let the handlebars turn.
when this happens the front tire will try to correct the position but overcompensate... then do it again but the other direction, overcompensate... etc. etc.
a steering damper will help as it adds resistance but the best thing ( if possible ) is to get hard on the gas to lighten the front end reducing the severity. then it should correct itself.
tim
06-08-2009 | 06:51 PM
#16
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 116
From: NSW Australia
M3's front and back,absolutely luv em and expecting about 5000 miles from each.
The trouble with track tyres on the street isn't the wear, its temperature. You just cant get enough heat in them (with semi normal riding) so that they work correctly.
I followed a TLR1000 fitted with an ex track Bridgestone (I think) on the rear,down a mountain once, and I could keep with him for the first 1/3 of the way, but as his tyre got hotter, he just pulled away from me.
06-09-2009 | 03:37 PM
#18
Thread Starter
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 265
From: West Coast, SoCal Inland
a 'tank slapper' is caused by the front tire lifting off the ground & then dropping back down to the ground with the tire out of line with the rear tire.
in the case above, after lifting the front going over the reflector he turned the handlebars or let the handlebars turn.
when this happens the front tire will try to correct the position but overcompensate... then do it again but the other direction, overcompensate... etc. etc.
a steering damper will help as it adds resistance but the best thing ( if possible ) is to get hard on the gas to lighten the front end reducing the severity. then it should correct itself.
thank you. That was a great explanation.
tim
in the case above, after lifting the front going over the reflector he turned the handlebars or let the handlebars turn.
when this happens the front tire will try to correct the position but overcompensate... then do it again but the other direction, overcompensate... etc. etc.
a steering damper will help as it adds resistance but the best thing ( if possible ) is to get hard on the gas to lighten the front end reducing the severity. then it should correct itself.
thank you. That was a great explanation.
tim
06-09-2009 | 03:40 PM
#19
Thread Starter
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 265
From: West Coast, SoCal Inland
+1 here
M3's front and back,absolutely luv em and expecting about 5000 miles from each.
The trouble with track tyres on the street isn't the wear, its temperature. You just cant get enough heat in them (with semi normal riding) so that they work correctly.
I followed a TLR1000 fitted with an ex track Bridgestone (I think) on the rear,down a mountain once, and I could keep with him for the first 1/3 of the way, but as his tyre got hotter, he just pulled away from me.
M3's front and back,absolutely luv em and expecting about 5000 miles from each.
The trouble with track tyres on the street isn't the wear, its temperature. You just cant get enough heat in them (with semi normal riding) so that they work correctly.
I followed a TLR1000 fitted with an ex track Bridgestone (I think) on the rear,down a mountain once, and I could keep with him for the first 1/3 of the way, but as his tyre got hotter, he just pulled away from me.
06-09-2009 | 03:55 PM
#20
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,844
From: Gainesville FLA.
If you're not tearing up the corners then go with one of the new dual compound tires like the bridg. bt021, the dunlop roadsmart, the conti road attack or the mich pilot road 2 they will last a LOT longer and give you plenty of grip. The mich will be more expensive but they last the longest of the sport touring tires you can get the others for under $300 and last almost twice as long as the full on sport tires. If you want a full on sport tire I loved the pirrelli corsa 3 and was happy with the miles I got out of them trying out the bt016 right now so far so good. I can't even tell how many tires I've tried on this bike 8 years and plenty of track days saw to that.
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