Tire changes are easy. Now with video!
12-15-2010, 06:29 AM
#31
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
I got my tires off finally. I tried the jack method but that didn't work. My car is too low. I never tried the 2X4 method.
What finally worked for me was calling my local dealer and asking them to do it. When they quoted me 90 bucks, I politely explained that I was giving them two wheels already off the bike, and all I wanted them to do was take both tires off and put one of the tires back on (not both). So they lowered the price to 65 bucks. So I said no, I'd do it myself.
One hour later I had both tires off. Nothing like a little financial motivation! I just used an 8" C-clamp, 3 tire irons, 4 rim protectors, and a lot of soapy water. The end result was both tires off, saved 65 bucks, and had a brand new hernia (joking).
What finally worked for me was calling my local dealer and asking them to do it. When they quoted me 90 bucks, I politely explained that I was giving them two wheels already off the bike, and all I wanted them to do was take both tires off and put one of the tires back on (not both). So they lowered the price to 65 bucks. So I said no, I'd do it myself.
One hour later I had both tires off. Nothing like a little financial motivation! I just used an 8" C-clamp, 3 tire irons, 4 rim protectors, and a lot of soapy water. The end result was both tires off, saved 65 bucks, and had a brand new hernia (joking).
Last edited by evines; 12-15-2010 at 09:18 AM.
12-15-2010, 09:15 AM
#33
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
For the remount, my plan is to just use the rim protectors and tire irons. To set the bead, I heard a ratcheting strap around the circumference of the tire might help, so I'll try that if needed. I have a pretty low-flow air compressor, but the guy on the "minimalist" video used a bike pump, so I'll be fine, right?
I'm going to balance with Dynabeads.
12-15-2010, 09:37 AM
#34
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
By the way, the bead was very difficult to break with my method. I clamped the C-clamp down in about 5 different places around the tire, and it was still completely stuck. I'm not convinced that the 2X4 method would have worked in my case. I think what eventually worked was a lot of soapy water and patience (which I don't have very much of). I just had to work the soap down in the bead slowly, along the circumference of the tire. I drove a tire iron down in the bead area, and after some prying and foot-stomping, it finally popped loose. I was worried I was scuffing up the bead area with the tire iron, but I was also enraged, cold, and not making rational decisions at that point, so I continued on. I got lucky and the bead area was fine. Not a scratch to be found.
Also, if you can avoid it, try not to change a tire where it's 24 degrees. After I got done, I realized that the cold ambient temperature made the tire extra stiff and difficult to work with, not to mention it made my hands numb with all the soapy water and cold metal everywhere. Come to think of it, that 65 bucks doesn't sound like such a bad deal anymore. If you asked me to do your tire for 65 bucks right now, I'd say no.
Also, if you can avoid it, try not to change a tire where it's 24 degrees. After I got done, I realized that the cold ambient temperature made the tire extra stiff and difficult to work with, not to mention it made my hands numb with all the soapy water and cold metal everywhere. Come to think of it, that 65 bucks doesn't sound like such a bad deal anymore. If you asked me to do your tire for 65 bucks right now, I'd say no.
12-15-2010, 10:33 AM
#35
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,051
Uh, yeah cold is no good for tire changes. Also, in my limited exp of @ 50 changes soapy water doesnt work anywhere NEAR as good as windex. Also, I can't believe a c-clamp worked at all. The minimalist video is dead on though. You should bring the tires indoors to swap them. Lots of windex & cover the tire irons in bicycle inner tube (bike shops give the dead ones away free) if you want to avoid lots of paint chips
12-15-2010, 01:58 PM
#36
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
for 90 bucks you could have bought a tire changer at Harbor Freight. A ratchet strap without a hook or other on one end so you can slide it out once the tire is mounted. I just tie a slip knot with plastic clothes line and tie it to the tire changer frame to squeeze the bead.
01-06-2011, 07:51 PM
#38
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
01-07-2011, 05:15 AM
#40
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
Last time I checked the motorcycle attachments were all on backorder. That was a few weeks ago.
Also, an update on my tire-changing experience. Re-seating the bead was tough. It did not work with a 12-volt air pump, strap or no strap. It did not work with a bicycle pump. It didn't even work with a gas station air pump at first. I eventually figured out that the problem at the gas station pump was the ratcheting strap around the circumference of the tire. I don't know why, but having that on the tire made it NOT work. As soon as I took the strap off, the bead seated immediately. Also, some WD40 on the bead area seemed to help. It's been a few weeks now, and I haven't had any air leaks. My life motto might as well be "When in doubt, put some WD40 on it."
The Dynabeads are very messy if you just pour them in the tire before seating the bead (not using the valve stem). They stuck to the tire in the bead area (due to static electricity), and then I had to spend way too long knocking them out of the bead area. I'd bet having little ceramic ***** in the bead area wouldn't help the tire hold air. They also poured out onto the floor a couple of times while I was trying to seat the bead, which meant more time cleaning the bead area free of the dynabeads. Next time I'll try pouring them through the valve stem after I seat the bead.
Also, an update on my tire-changing experience. Re-seating the bead was tough. It did not work with a 12-volt air pump, strap or no strap. It did not work with a bicycle pump. It didn't even work with a gas station air pump at first. I eventually figured out that the problem at the gas station pump was the ratcheting strap around the circumference of the tire. I don't know why, but having that on the tire made it NOT work. As soon as I took the strap off, the bead seated immediately. Also, some WD40 on the bead area seemed to help. It's been a few weeks now, and I haven't had any air leaks. My life motto might as well be "When in doubt, put some WD40 on it."
The Dynabeads are very messy if you just pour them in the tire before seating the bead (not using the valve stem). They stuck to the tire in the bead area (due to static electricity), and then I had to spend way too long knocking them out of the bead area. I'd bet having little ceramic ***** in the bead area wouldn't help the tire hold air. They also poured out onto the floor a couple of times while I was trying to seat the bead, which meant more time cleaning the bead area free of the dynabeads. Next time I'll try pouring them through the valve stem after I seat the bead.
01-07-2011, 09:41 AM
#41
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
Last time I checked the motorcycle attachments were all on backorder. That was a few weeks ago.
Also, an update on my tire-changing experience. Re-seating the bead was tough. It did not work with a 12-volt air pump, strap or no strap. It did not work with a bicycle pump. It didn't even work with a gas station air pump at first. I eventually figured out that the problem at the gas station pump was the ratcheting strap around the circumference of the tire. I don't know why, but having that on the tire made it NOT work. As soon as I took the strap off, the bead seated immediately. Also, some WD40 on the bead area seemed to help. It's been a few weeks now, and I haven't had any air leaks. My life motto might as well be "When in doubt, put some WD40 on it."
The Dynabeads are very messy if you just pour them in the tire before seating the bead (not using the valve stem). They stuck to the tire in the bead area (due to static electricity), and then I had to spend way too long knocking them out of the bead area. I'd bet having little ceramic ***** in the bead area wouldn't help the tire hold air. They also poured out onto the floor a couple of times while I was trying to seat the bead, which meant more time cleaning the bead area free of the dynabeads. Next time I'll try pouring them through the valve stem after I seat the bead.
Also, an update on my tire-changing experience. Re-seating the bead was tough. It did not work with a 12-volt air pump, strap or no strap. It did not work with a bicycle pump. It didn't even work with a gas station air pump at first. I eventually figured out that the problem at the gas station pump was the ratcheting strap around the circumference of the tire. I don't know why, but having that on the tire made it NOT work. As soon as I took the strap off, the bead seated immediately. Also, some WD40 on the bead area seemed to help. It's been a few weeks now, and I haven't had any air leaks. My life motto might as well be "When in doubt, put some WD40 on it."
The Dynabeads are very messy if you just pour them in the tire before seating the bead (not using the valve stem). They stuck to the tire in the bead area (due to static electricity), and then I had to spend way too long knocking them out of the bead area. I'd bet having little ceramic ***** in the bead area wouldn't help the tire hold air. They also poured out onto the floor a couple of times while I was trying to seat the bead, which meant more time cleaning the bead area free of the dynabeads. Next time I'll try pouring them through the valve stem after I seat the bead.
well i can tell you an old trick I've used many times to bead up those big ole 11x24.5 semi-truck tires alongside the road. Spray a little ether/starting fluid(it only takes a short but deliberate spray) inside the tire and quickly throw a lit match at it. That'll seat that sumbitch like right freakin now. haha. I mean BOOM! You will scare the **** out of yourself too. And i'm serious. If you get frustrated enough, you get desperate.haha........... But you better move quickly or you're not gonna thank me for this suggestion. haha. The other warning that needs to be remembered if you ever need to do this is that, once the tire is aired up, remove the valve stem and let all the ether air out, i.e., deflate totally and maybe one more time to be sure it's all out. And don't tell anyone I told you this because my i'm trying to rebuild my already destroyed credibility. Note: I learned this method at truck garages where they usually chained or otherwise restrained the tire because this is an explosion, and it's fun too. haha.
The WD 40 thing probably works but rubber loves silicone, so i use silicone spray instead. It works well and gets sucked up by the rubber quickly. The other thing to remember is to check the bead line on both sides of the rim to make certain it's even all the way around. Ask Little Horse about his experience with this.
The Dyna beads require a little patience, practice, and sometimes creative thinking to get those pesky little buggers to follow each other into the valve stem. #1 make sure your compressor air is dry(always) by keeping it drained and inflate the tire. #2 remove the valve stem and deflate completely.#3 put the stem at the bottom.#4 attach a mighty vac and suck some air out or squeeze the tire and release slowly so as not to suck too much air in but to get it all out.#5 attach clear plastic tubing to valve stem and pour some dynabeads into the tubing to see how it's going to go. If you pour too many in, they bunch up then you need to hold one end of the tubing and snap your finger (or use a stick)against the tubing to get them to move into the tire. Sometime it goes faster than others and several times they went in the valve stem at a steady rate, like a minute to get them all in. #7 stick a Q-tip or other or tap the valve stem before you replace the gut. #8fill the tire with ether, no, I mean dry air. haha and when you check the pressure, always move the wheel so that the valve stem is not at the bottom and put air in with pump or compressor or at minimum tap the valve stem to detach any beads that might cause the valve gut to leak. Make sure the valve is not leaking before you replace the valve cap.
01-07-2011, 09:52 AM
#42
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,051
I guess I forgot to recommend AGAINST dyna beads. They are not a good idea on a motorcycle. Kind of an answer to non-question. Motorcycle consumer news (independant tester; no ads) did tests & concluded against them. They dont balance the wheel & in some cases add to imbalance.
I don't think wd40 is a great idea on a bead either. Yes it will help, but the point is that the lube dries, dissolves & disappears. wd40 is a bit too permanent for tires, grips, or any such application.
Please tell me I can get an adapter for my tire changer!!
I don't think wd40 is a great idea on a bead either. Yes it will help, but the point is that the lube dries, dissolves & disappears. wd40 is a bit too permanent for tires, grips, or any such application.
Please tell me I can get an adapter for my tire changer!!
01-07-2011, 10:11 AM
#43
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
I guess I forgot to recommend AGAINST dyna beads. They are not a good idea on a motorcycle. Kind of an answer to non-question. Motorcycle consumer news (independant tester; no ads) did tests & concluded against them. They dont balance the wheel & in some cases add to imbalance.
I don't think wd40 is a great idea on a bead either. Yes it will help, but the point is that the lube dries, dissolves & disappears. wd40 is a bit too permanent for tires, grips, or any such application.
Please tell me I can get an adapter for my tire changer!!
I don't think wd40 is a great idea on a bead either. Yes it will help, but the point is that the lube dries, dissolves & disappears. wd40 is a bit too permanent for tires, grips, or any such application.
Please tell me I can get an adapter for my tire changer!!
"Last time I checked the motorcycle attachments were all on backorder. That was a few weeks ago."
01-07-2011, 10:36 AM
#45
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
01-07-2011, 11:07 AM
#46
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,051
HA finally some real humor around here that didn't come from me! OKOK so I not only did that & spoke to lady habib & then the tech department. They don't sell them anymore!!! Yes it's time to panic... Then regroup and come up with a better plan.
So, hacking the web on every craigslist from here to there i found one. All I have to do is drive an hour away to pick it up. To bad it snows every 2 seconds this winter. I had no idea how hard this would be & I haven't changed a tire yet!!
These tires better change themselves....
So, hacking the web on every craigslist from here to there i found one. All I have to do is drive an hour away to pick it up. To bad it snows every 2 seconds this winter. I had no idea how hard this would be & I haven't changed a tire yet!!
These tires better change themselves....
01-07-2011, 11:25 AM
#47
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
I guess I forgot to recommend AGAINST dyna beads. They are not a good idea on a motorcycle. Kind of an answer to non-question. Motorcycle consumer news (independant tester; no ads) did tests & concluded against them. They dont balance the wheel & in some cases add to imbalance.
Think of a frisbee with a weight attached to it on one end. The frisbee will rotate around the heavy weight and "wobble" through the air. As a result, the light part of the frisbee will be thrown further outside the center of mass relative to the heavy side. If you could add dynabeads to the frisbee, they would be forced (centrifugally) to the light part of the frisbee and as a result balance the heavy part out. The wobble would be lessened. Same thing happens in a tire/wheel combination that has a heavy spot, but this only happens if the axle can move. In a spin balancer, the axle is fixed, isn't it? If so, then there would be no wobble. You must have wobble for the dynabeads to work. The on-road test that MCN did seems valid, and that test result was a very small improvement in the wobble, but I'm not sure they went far enough with the test from what I've read (and again, I can't find the original test write-up).
A perfect test to show how dynabeads work is to take a water-filled disc (half-filled or less) and throw it like a frisbee. Then add a weight to the outside of the disc and throw it again. It won't wobble. Now empty the water out of the disc and throw it again. It will wobble since there is no water to counteract the weight. The dynabeads work just like the water. Hell, you could add water to your tire and it would work just like the dynabeads.
Anyway, the science makes sense to me. There is a misconception that the heavy part of the tire is "thrown out" further from the axle, and that is what creates the wobble. If that were true then dynabeads would indeed make the imbalance worse. But actually, as explained above, it's the light part of the tire thrown out further from the axle.
I haven't tried dynabeads yet, so I am withholding final judgment, but I thought I'd give them a try since it makes sense to me. And I would say that I would post my results after trying it out, but my result won't prove anything either (unless it's horribly unbalanced) since I don't know if my wheel/tire was out-of-balance to begin with.
And I should clarify my WD40 use . . . I sprayed some on a cloth and wiped a light coating on the wheel. I almost just sprayed it directly on the bead, but then had images of being leaned over in a turn, and a trapped pocket of WD40 overspray coming loose and lubricating my tire tread right at that moment. That couldn't be good.
01-07-2011, 11:58 AM
#49
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
By fixed axle, I meant that the axle can't move up and down. It is fixed in its position relative to the rider. Like a hardtail. I apologize if I used confusing terminology.
Does the snake oil have a valid scientific/physical principle behind it? If so, I might try it, but I would need the details first. Although, according to the rules of the forum, you must provide a price and say if shipping is included. So no.
01-07-2011, 12:36 PM
#50
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
HA finally some real humor around here that didn't come from me! OKOK so I not only did that & spoke to lady habib & then the tech department. They don't sell them anymore!!! Yes it's time to panic... Then regroup and come up with a better plan.
So, hacking the web on every craigslist from here to there i found one. All I have to do is drive an hour away to pick it up. To bad it snows every 2 seconds this winter. I had no idea how hard this would be & I haven't changed a tire yet!!
These tires better change themselves....
So, hacking the web on every craigslist from here to there i found one. All I have to do is drive an hour away to pick it up. To bad it snows every 2 seconds this winter. I had no idea how hard this would be & I haven't changed a tire yet!!
These tires better change themselves....
01-07-2011, 02:06 PM
#51
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
Here is a youtube video that shows how centramatic balancing works. This and dynabeads follow the same principle. Notice how the ball bearings move to the opposite side of the weight and smooth the imbalance:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skY6q...eature=related
Here is a less sophisticated example using a drill and dynabeads that shows the same thing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq263AYgyYg
I'm not saying that dynabeads work in practice, I'm just saying that I don't see a problem with the physics. In theory, it should work. And for 6 bucks, I'm willing to try it. For me, the alternative was to take it to the dealer (aka stealer) and have them do it the old fashioned way for 20 bucks. Or try some ghetto homemade balancing contraption that might not work either.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skY6q...eature=related
Here is a less sophisticated example using a drill and dynabeads that shows the same thing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eq263AYgyYg
I'm not saying that dynabeads work in practice, I'm just saying that I don't see a problem with the physics. In theory, it should work. And for 6 bucks, I'm willing to try it. For me, the alternative was to take it to the dealer (aka stealer) and have them do it the old fashioned way for 20 bucks. Or try some ghetto homemade balancing contraption that might not work either.
01-07-2011, 03:14 PM
#52
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
I'm not saying that dynabeads work in practice, I'm just saying that I don't see a problem with the physics. In theory, it should work. And for 6 bucks, I'm willing to try it. For me, the alternative was to take it to the dealer (aka stealer) and have them do it the old fashioned way for 20 bucks. Or try some ghetto homemade balancing contraption that might not work either.
Seriously now, there are detractors with beads, with stick-on and clamp-on weights, with liquids,etc. It's a matter of degree. The detractors with beads are you got to get centrifugal force up to a certain speed to balance, if there is moisture or other sticky substance in the tire, this can affect their ability to balance as well, they can be difficult to install and can cause leaks if you don't take precautions when checking or adjusting pressure,etc.
With fixed weights, they can come off. Also, as the tires wear they most often wear unevenly for various reasons and at this point the weights may even exacerbate imbalance, then you need to remove and re-balance or live with it.
Liquids add too much weight and are sloppy to change. I like the beads because I can do it easily myself. Just put em in and ride.
The thing to do is to static balance your wheel assembly(using a couple jackstands or 2x4's) with a stick-on weight prior to mounting the tire if needed. Funny thing is i haven't needed any beads for the last two sets of tires. I did have to use beads in the shinkos on my XR.
01-07-2011, 09:56 PM
#54
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 3,451
When it comes to changing tires with minimal equipment, back in the late '70s I watched a burly Mexican guy change a truck tire at Daniels Tire Service in Sante Fe Springs using only 2 tire irons. And he did it on the asphalt in the parking lot. He had the old tire off and the new one on the rim just as fast as I could do it using a modern Coats 6065 air/electric tire changer...maybe even faster.
01-08-2011, 06:14 AM
#55
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
When it comes to changing tires with minimal equipment, back in the late '70s I watched a burly Mexican guy change a truck tire at Daniels Tire Service in Sante Fe Springs using only 2 tire irons. And he did it on the asphalt in the parking lot. He had the old tire off and the new one on the rim just as fast as I could do it using a modern Coats 6065 air/electric tire changer...maybe even faster.
Before we had tubeless tires, some flats required breaking the bead to remove and repair the tube, and i have done it many time alongside the road in all kinds of conditions. But tubeless tires made things much easier. When you discover a flat, pull over, move your truck to reveal the nail or whatever penetrated the tire and yank it out. Clean the hole with a round file, put the plug in, hook up the hose to the tractor's air supply, and inflate. If you didn't discover the flat for a while, the bead would be loose from the rim and this is when you needed to employ the scary ether trick. Spray a shot of starting fluid in along the rim to the inside of the tire, throw a lit match at it as you back off quickly and if you've done it correctly, there will be a loud explosion instantly sealing the bead totally. Amazingly effective, instantaneous, like waving a wand magical, and dangerous as hell. Next inflate the tire, then let most of air out to expel any residual ether, air it up again and you're on the road again.
01-09-2011, 01:24 PM
#56
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Delmar NY
Posts: 805
Smokinjoe asked me for dimensions on the mojoblocks.
Here is my attempt to draw. Used paint so forgive the lack of detail. There is a hole in the center for a bolt to go through and attach to the MC attachment. You will need to counter sink that so the bolt head doesn't stick up. The curve in the side is what holds the rim. This is 1" diameter.
If HF is not making the attachment anymore then I guess this doesn't matter...
Here is my attempt to draw. Used paint so forgive the lack of detail. There is a hole in the center for a bolt to go through and attach to the MC attachment. You will need to counter sink that so the bolt head doesn't stick up. The curve in the side is what holds the rim. This is 1" diameter.
If HF is not making the attachment anymore then I guess this doesn't matter...
01-09-2011, 01:38 PM
#57
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,051
OKOK so I just drove up to Conn to pick up my used HF motorcycle tire changer. I already ordered more than enuff delrin thermoplastic for the mojoblocks for $7 from mcmaster-carr. If anyone is in my hood and needs a tire change call me....
01-09-2011, 03:26 PM
#58
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
Hope it was worth the trip>
01-09-2011, 07:26 PM
#60
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: altoona, pa
Posts: 2,934
Thanks for the offer. I think I'll just get a six pack and watch you experiment on yours first.
This changer should make the process much easier once you get used to it. Got to get some of the delrin since all i have on mine is electrical tape. I guess you read that I removed the top piece to make it easier to go all the way around w/o removing the bar. Let us know how you like it.
