Things to look for/avoid on a SH?
#1
Things to look for/avoid on a SH?
So I've been lurking on this site for a while now trying to read as much information as I can to make an informed decision when I purchase my superhawk. I've pretty much decided that I WILL be getting one, but I wanted to make sure I didn't get myself onto a bike with problems from the factory.
I've found an '05 with 4k miles on it that I'm looking at. It looks in good shape but with a couple scratches that appear to have come from it falling over either standing still, or very low speed (like a parking lot).
Other than personal preference, are there any particular years that have more issues than others?
Any factory updated parts that would be more beneficial to purchasing a newer year model (like the '05 I'm looking at).
I've found an '05 with 4k miles on it that I'm looking at. It looks in good shape but with a couple scratches that appear to have come from it falling over either standing still, or very low speed (like a parking lot).
Other than personal preference, are there any particular years that have more issues than others?
Any factory updated parts that would be more beneficial to purchasing a newer year model (like the '05 I'm looking at).
#2
All the years are the same, save for color.
But I hear the yellow ones are faster.
Things to look out for are the regulator/rectifier (RR) and cam chain tensioners (CCT). With an '05, it shouldn't be a problem right now, but be aware that those things are weak points (besides a small-ish fuel range).
But I hear the yellow ones are faster.
Things to look out for are the regulator/rectifier (RR) and cam chain tensioners (CCT). With an '05, it shouldn't be a problem right now, but be aware that those things are weak points (besides a small-ish fuel range).
#3
yes, yellow is a real plus, speedwise. If you've been reading you know these can be had fairly cheaply, so with some scratches be sure it is a good deal reflective of that. Some people like to wheelie them (maybe a cause of the scratches), so checking the steering head bearing is a good thing to do. Worthwhile common upgrades are suspension work obviously, brake lines, sintered pads. Stock tires aren't great, so replacements would be valuable if still have miles left in them. General care and maintenance items like chain and oil usually say a lot about what kind of person what riding it.
#4
All the years are the same, save for color.
But I hear the yellow ones are faster.
Things to look out for are the regulator/rectifier (RR) and cam chain tensioners (CCT). With an '05, it shouldn't be a problem right now, but be aware that those things are weak points (besides a small-ish fuel range).
But I hear the yellow ones are faster.
Things to look out for are the regulator/rectifier (RR) and cam chain tensioners (CCT). With an '05, it shouldn't be a problem right now, but be aware that those things are weak points (besides a small-ish fuel range).
Now the CCT I'm aware of, and would be upgrading that regardless of the bike I get... but what the heck does the RR do?
#5
R/R is a regulator rectifier and is the traffic cop of the bikes charging system. It's prone to early deaths but the 05 has an updated edition.
The biggest difference is the 02 (?) and later have a digital guage assembly and some other cosmetic changes (olive colored cases/forks, etc). No performance differences between any year.
The biggest difference is the 02 (?) and later have a digital guage assembly and some other cosmetic changes (olive colored cases/forks, etc). No performance differences between any year.
#7
R/R is a regulator rectifier and is the traffic cop of the bikes charging system. It's prone to early deaths but the 05 has an updated edition.
The biggest difference is the 02 (?) and later have a digital guage assembly and some other cosmetic changes (olive colored cases/forks, etc). No performance differences between any year.
The biggest difference is the 02 (?) and later have a digital guage assembly and some other cosmetic changes (olive colored cases/forks, etc). No performance differences between any year.
#11
You can perform a leakdown test to check your engine health, it tells everything on the engine, bent valves, head gaskets, broken/worn rings.
If you have access to an air compressor you can try to make your own, here's the link to my how to
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=680940
If you have access to an air compressor you can try to make your own, here's the link to my how to
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=680940
#12
My 98 has never had the tps adjusted and it idles fine, between 800 and 1100 rpm depending on conditions and smooth as butta! With a little over 16k miles I havn't had a cct go bad (knock on wood) and still have the original installed. I have had to replace the R/R, however, along with a fairly new battery that it took out also.
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