stripped down the bike - have some questions
#1
stripped down the bike - have some questions
well i stripped her down today to do my cct's. Didn't get to the cct's today because I want to triple check that I know what I'm doing. also I'm getting my jet kit on too so the carbs are all the way off.
anyways the first thing is the airbox. when I took it apart the filter is a little dirty. What should I do to clean this? Also the next thing is the two breathers to the outside where there was orange foam covering the holes, this foam just fell apart when I touched it... plus there was an orangish oil on the bottom of the airbox. is this gonna be a prob? do I need to get some foam to cover those holes again?
With the carbs I'm hoping the jets clear it up but am wondering if it is just a bad sync. I started it up with the airbox off and the rear was spitting and backfiring while the front was fine. Like it'd be like "poof" and you could see gas or something shoot out of the rear. Possibly is why the foam got ruined if gas was dumping into the airbox... I think it might be a combo of jets and sync... So what's the best way to sync? I'd like to avoid taking it to the dealer to have that done...
For the cct's I remember superbling saying something about ziptieing it and not worrying about having it at TDC for the front and rear respectively.. Zip tie what? I assume the cam chain... I can just follow the directions to get TDC though for each respective cylinder though. also once I put them on what do I have to do? They're preloaded now and I have to release them... what's that entail??
sorry for the excessively long post. Pics will come soon especially for the CCT install since it's a common question
anyways the first thing is the airbox. when I took it apart the filter is a little dirty. What should I do to clean this? Also the next thing is the two breathers to the outside where there was orange foam covering the holes, this foam just fell apart when I touched it... plus there was an orangish oil on the bottom of the airbox. is this gonna be a prob? do I need to get some foam to cover those holes again?
With the carbs I'm hoping the jets clear it up but am wondering if it is just a bad sync. I started it up with the airbox off and the rear was spitting and backfiring while the front was fine. Like it'd be like "poof" and you could see gas or something shoot out of the rear. Possibly is why the foam got ruined if gas was dumping into the airbox... I think it might be a combo of jets and sync... So what's the best way to sync? I'd like to avoid taking it to the dealer to have that done...
For the cct's I remember superbling saying something about ziptieing it and not worrying about having it at TDC for the front and rear respectively.. Zip tie what? I assume the cam chain... I can just follow the directions to get TDC though for each respective cylinder though. also once I put them on what do I have to do? They're preloaded now and I have to release them... what's that entail??
sorry for the excessively long post. Pics will come soon especially for the CCT install since it's a common question
#5
Originally Posted by EngineNoO9
where do you get water wetter??
#7
Not any water. Distilled water.
I don't believe water wetter has any bad properties, but you'll need to change it out a bit more frequently. Be careful if the bike is stored where the temps fall under 32 degrees.
Any large auto parts store should carry water wetter.
As for your other questions, sorry, IDK.
I don't believe water wetter has any bad properties, but you'll need to change it out a bit more frequently. Be careful if the bike is stored where the temps fall under 32 degrees.
Any large auto parts store should carry water wetter.
As for your other questions, sorry, IDK.
#9
Typically about $6-7/bottle. But, you only use about two-three ounces of the stuff.
Oh, and most trackday organizers will require you have no coolant in your bike. The stuff is real slippery and not easy to clean up on the track.
Oh, and most trackday organizers will require you have no coolant in your bike. The stuff is real slippery and not easy to clean up on the track.
#10
yeah I know about the no coolant that's why I figure I might as well switch now...
a few pics:
DirtAy air filter!
the foam I'm talking about that just disintegrated
goofy of my crap on our sofa
random cool pic of this eagle I have on my desk
a few pics:
DirtAy air filter!
the foam I'm talking about that just disintegrated
goofy of my crap on our sofa
random cool pic of this eagle I have on my desk
#15
Originally Posted by marmaladeboy
Replace your air filter. As a stopgap until you can afford a replacement, use dirty socks, medical gauze tape, and girls' panties. Victoria's Secret works best.
New filter should not be that much....oem....right? dunno...
#17
Originally Posted by EngineNoO9
no K&N. a bmc will work the same... They're like $100. I'll clean it the best I can for now... I've spent close to $700 the past month... WAY more then I ever planned... :-\
From what I have been reading, the only real advantage those have over the OEM is the ability to clean them....Where I live the filter does not get dirty very fast, so it would be kind of a waste for me....unless I keep it for like 80,000 miles or something....
#18
the K&N is proven to increase the hp...
yeah starting a few weeks back:
EBC brake pads all around - $80
Gixxer1000 brakes and master cylinder - $175
had to sell the front older pads - got $40 back
had to buy new front pads since the ones I got with the brakes were ruined when I got them - $80
Brake fluid - $10
CCT's - $125
Racetech springs - $105
Fork Rebuild with new springs - $400
Lockhart Philips thingies - $25
Jet kit - $55
shock (needs rebuilding and will do later, can't spend anymore money) - $100
and I finally finished my new computer - $300
which though will be paid for mostly by selling some car stuff I had from my civic
yeah let's not add that up... I've seen the hit in my account already
yeah starting a few weeks back:
EBC brake pads all around - $80
Gixxer1000 brakes and master cylinder - $175
had to sell the front older pads - got $40 back
had to buy new front pads since the ones I got with the brakes were ruined when I got them - $80
Brake fluid - $10
CCT's - $125
Racetech springs - $105
Fork Rebuild with new springs - $400
Lockhart Philips thingies - $25
Jet kit - $55
shock (needs rebuilding and will do later, can't spend anymore money) - $100
and I finally finished my new computer - $300
which though will be paid for mostly by selling some car stuff I had from my civic
yeah let's not add that up... I've seen the hit in my account already
#21
You can save a few (OK a lot) bucks on the airfilter by doing this mod. I have no problems running it with a DJ stage one kit and pipes. A couple of other folks on the forum have reported sucessful results.
http://community.webshots.com/album/221820514vtPKpk
http://community.webshots.com/album/221820514vtPKpk
#22
Originally Posted by superbling
You can save a few (OK a lot) bucks on the airfilter by doing this mod. I have no problems running it with a DJ stage one kit and pipes. A couple of other folks on the forum have reported sucessful results.
http://community.webshots.com/album/221820514vtPKpk
http://community.webshots.com/album/221820514vtPKpk
#23
Originally Posted by superbling
You can save a few (OK a lot) bucks on the airfilter by doing this mod. I have no problems running it with a DJ stage one kit and pipes. A couple of other folks on the forum have reported sucessful results.
http://community.webshots.com/album/221820514vtPKpk
http://community.webshots.com/album/221820514vtPKpk
#24
G'day engineno9.
I would clean your old filter with complessed air from the inside out if you know what I mean. That will get out most of the gunk. Best option is a new filter though no doubt about it. Filters are SO important to your engine.
In regards tp your CCT's you can get the cams in the right spot by looking through the rocker cover bolt hole on the lower right front. This will enable you to see the cam lobe and get TDC on the compression stroke without taking the cam covers off. There is a full thread on here somewhere if you go for a look. If you are taking the covers off anyway to do valves perhaps, then lining the timing marks up on th cam sprockets is pretty easy anyway so I would just do that.
if you have no need to take the covers off other than to do the CCT's I would use the bolt hole trick. Pretty easy to do.
Cheers,
Shayne
I would clean your old filter with complessed air from the inside out if you know what I mean. That will get out most of the gunk. Best option is a new filter though no doubt about it. Filters are SO important to your engine.
In regards tp your CCT's you can get the cams in the right spot by looking through the rocker cover bolt hole on the lower right front. This will enable you to see the cam lobe and get TDC on the compression stroke without taking the cam covers off. There is a full thread on here somewhere if you go for a look. If you are taking the covers off anyway to do valves perhaps, then lining the timing marks up on th cam sprockets is pretty easy anyway so I would just do that.
if you have no need to take the covers off other than to do the CCT's I would use the bolt hole trick. Pretty easy to do.
Cheers,
Shayne
#25
i used the cheater way of zip ties :P major problem is in my other thread someone said don't order gaskets the old ones work... yeah NOT!! valve cover yeah but the cct no way. so i'm stuck not being able to put them on now. i have some "liquid sealer maker" or something but I really don't know if I trust it... I'm gonna wait and call the shop tomorrow morning and see if they have any gaskets. Ron Ayers can't get me these 2 stupid gaskets until next week sometime...