I used the search function before I wrote this and found this thread (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...lug-gap-15928/) stating that the gap should be about .031-.035 for the SH plug. Is this the correct gaping?

With cars usually the plug that goes to your car comes almost pre-gaped, give or take a tiny bit. The four plugs I received came gaped at at .022-.025. That's a big difference from the gap in the other thread. Also the plugs that I removed installed be the Honda dealership were gaped at .022 and .026. This lead me to believe that either the above thread was wrong or that the stealership mechanics just didn't care enough to gap them and threw them on the bike.

I know some of you have to adjust for modifications to your bikes. To answer your next question my bike is bone stock except for a yoshimura slip on exhaust. I don't believe that it should affect the gaping.

Thanks for any help ahead of time.

 

The VTR1000F spark plug gap of 0.80-0.90 mm(0.031-0.035 in) is what the manual calls for, so the thread you linked is correct...it requires only 2 plugs ...you said you received FOUR, did you buy extras or someone sell you 4 plugs possibly for an inline 4? Which plugs did you get?

 

I bought two from one place @ $12.xx each. Then found two cheaper @ $6.09 each. I'm returning the first two. I got these: Buy NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug 5545 at Advance Auto Parts
Both of them have been adjusted to .031in. as called for and seem to be running alright. They have maybe five miles on them. After the install I noticed a few pops from the air box @ 3K RPM exactly. That's why I wanted to double check in case all of the fuel wasn't being ignited because of too large a gap. Never had that happen before. It seems to have worked itself out.

Huge change though with the new plugs. I only had 13,100 miles on the old ones. Easier start when engine is cold. Slightly smoother throttle response.

 

I run the same iridiums also at that gap, no issues.
the popping might be jetting or old fuel, at about 3K is where carb needles come into play switching to main jets from pilots... we NORTH northerners put our bikes away for months and gasoline "gumming" occurs even with fuel stabilizers so I usually clean my carbs every spring before putting them back into the bike(carbs stored indoors w/ battery) and do notice slight deposits in the bowls and jets...

 

It might have had a small clog in one of the jets. Whatever it was worked itself out. My bike is a DD. I live in Florida so I can use it every day. It gets plenty of use. I always get worried with the ethanol. I hear it gums up carbs fast. If I don't drive my bike that day I let it run for about five minutes just to circulate the fuel.

I'm curious now that I have the correct gaping if I'll get any better fuel mileage. The larger the gap should provide for a strong and clean burn. After riding it to karaoke tonight I didn't notice any backfiring. Not that is was excessive before but it was there at least twice on every ride during decel.

I lived in Ohio for three years. Every winter I had to prep my bike as well. The weirdest thing I learned about cold weather and motorcycles was about the cables. On your brake, clutch, etc. cables they have the black around them. Inside that black is a metal case around the cable. If the temperature drops too much it can crush onto the cable allowing it not to move causing you to but a new one.

 

Does the bike have stock CCT's or manual units?

Just asking because if you let it sit and run on the side stand with the stock units, you could have problems....

 

Manual CCTs

 

I have a box of 4 NGK Iridium IX spark plugs coming in tomorrows mail, part # DPR9EIX-9, I hope I got the correct ones.
I'm glad you're bike is running better, my bike sat a fair amount before I bought it, so I'm running premium fuel mixed with SeaFoam to hopefully clean out the carbs. It already runs much better.