Hi folks,

I am replacing my rear brake line with a Galfer braided steel unit, along with replacing my 530 pitch sprocket set-up with a lighter and more efficient 520 pitch combo (thanks CNIDawg ). I was just wondering if there are any special procedures I should be aware of?

What are the torque settings for the brake fittings? The bleeding procedure must be fairly straigthforward, correct?

Never having replaced the chain, I am a bit leery of the hydraulic clutch. Is there anything I should be aware of or watch out for? What all has to be removed?

Any help/advice would be appreciated. It seem foolish to ask questions about such routine things but I would rather go in knowledgeable, than be left frustrated or make a costly mistake.

cheers
Mikstr

 

You can avoid taking off the clutch slave by simply wiring the new chain to the old and pulling it through and then stakeing it. With the new rear line, just make sure to keep the reservoir topped off all the time and the bleeding should be easy. I use a MityVac and pull the bubbles out.

 

Thanks for the info.

Regarding the chain, I will be replacing the front sprocket so I think the cover has to come off, meaning the clutch slave cylinder will be affected. That is the part that concerns me the most as I have never doen this before. My fear is of screwing it up adn then having to trailer my bike to the dealer to get it fixed properly (a real pain in the a**). I am likely worrying for nothing but, as I said earlier, I would rather be over-prepared as opposed to under.

cheers
Mikstr

 

Do you have a service manual?

 

yes, although I haven't looked through it yet as they often (in my previous experience anyhow) do not go into detail for such "mundane" tasks. Guess I should have a look huh? Doh!!!!

 

Ahh. Didn't know if you did. The SM usually lists the torque numbers for all that fun stuff. I believe the brake lines should have instructions which outline the torque for the fittings.

If memory serves me right, you'll need to pull the clutch lever all the way in. But, you should double check the SM because my brain hasn't been 100% for quite awhile now...

 

Okay, for the front sprocket, remove the cover. Don't let the slave piston creep out or you will be bleeding the clutch which is a lot harder than brakes. Now put the bike in gear and hold the back brake to loosen the front sprocket bolt. Now you will want to cut/grind/blow up the old 530 chain off the bike. Remove rear wheel. Replace rear sprocket. Torque for those is 80 ft-lb. Now replace the front sprocket. You will not be able to torque at this time. Install rear wheel. Do not tighten axle nut. Install new 520 chain. Rivet/peen/clip chain together and adjust chain to spec and tighten rear axle nut to 69 ft-lb. Now torque the front sprocket bolt to 40 ft-lb using the same method as loosening. Reinstall slave cylinder/cover and tighten bolts "snugly". Double check chain slack.

 

Thanks Greg, greatly appreciate it. I will think of you when I punch it and that lightweight 520 pitch chain spins up (should work quite well with my lightened flywheel and RC45 throttle!) and launches me forward...woohoo!!

BTW, I do not want to destroy the 530 chain as it is still in mint shape so I'll be removing whatever hardware needs to removed to take it off and install the 520 (which is also continuous). My main concern was the clutch slave cylinder.

Mikstr

 

You might want to put the front wheel againts the wall and put in gear to loosen the rear sprocket bolts first,(or if you've got a bud woking with you have him/her step on the rear brake), before you take the wheel off. Unless you have air tools the nuts are going to be a BITCH to take off. Just incase I took the chain off in one piece to save it and since your replacement chain in in 1 piece you're going to have to take the rearset off to put it on.

 

thanks again. You guys are great

Mikstr

 

:wink: I struggled mightily with the nuts on my sprocket so I thought I would pass it on instead of sitting back and