Rearset Adapters
01-18-2011 | 09:37 AM
#1
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From: Big Lick
Rearset Adapters
I just sent a message off to Dr Honda to ask if he's had a chance to think more about some rearset adapters. I haven't heard back yet, but wondered if anyone else had perhaps contacted him and have any new info.
With track season coming up, I'd like to get something set up to use GSXR brackets (or some other common type) since they seem to be pretty common. Besides that, I was at a machine shop yesterday to get some rim work done for another bike, and noticed that they do all sorts of stuff. If nothing else, I may ask them about doing something, but thought I'd check here first.
Any info?
With track season coming up, I'd like to get something set up to use GSXR brackets (or some other common type) since they seem to be pretty common. Besides that, I was at a machine shop yesterday to get some rim work done for another bike, and noticed that they do all sorts of stuff. If nothing else, I may ask them about doing something, but thought I'd check here first.
Any info?
01-18-2011 | 12:43 PM
#2
Out of my mind, back in 5
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From: Skurup, Sweden
Given enough free time and motivation I could dig up the numbers for mine... They have holes matching the CBR 929/954/1000 race footpegs... Then you could go to your local shop and make a set...
I'm too swamped right now, but I might have the time come the weekend to go look...
I'm too swamped right now, but I might have the time come the weekend to go look...
01-18-2011 | 03:28 PM
#5
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From: Big Lick
QUESTION FOR EVERYONE ELSE
IF I could get a machinist to make these ....and not sure of price yet....
Would you prefer to get them blank and drill your own holes for specific rearset application
OR
Match up to an existing rearset
AND IF SO
Which rearset would you like to see set up.....
Would you prefer to get them blank and drill your own holes for specific rearset application
OR
Match up to an existing rearset
AND IF SO
Which rearset would you like to see set up.....
01-19-2011 | 08:29 AM
#7
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From: Big Lick
Yeah, mine are in the thinking stages at this point. If I can get some type of design like Tweety's I could ask what the cost per set would be. I'm planning to have them made without holes since I plan to drill several sets of holes to move footpeg positions.
01-19-2011 | 01:22 PM
#14
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From: Big Lick
I don't think we're ready to put a list together unless everyone goes with the specific configuration that Tweety has. His uses CBR 929/954/1000 race footpegs, which is not what I'm looking to use. I was planning to take a look at his and possibly modify were necessary to make something generic.
In my case, I was planning to use GSXR stock footpegs just because of cheap (used) availability.
If you guys want to do the specific setup that Tweety used, then you'd be good to go. You should plan to add the cost of the race footpegs.
In my case, I was planning to use GSXR stock footpegs just because of cheap (used) availability.
If you guys want to do the specific setup that Tweety used, then you'd be good to go. You should plan to add the cost of the race footpegs.
01-19-2011 | 06:01 PM
#15
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01-20-2011 | 07:09 AM
#16
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Well... Just to clarify... The one's I made are with boltholes for the CBR's... Ie you can use the stock footpegs or the adjustable race rearsets... And stock CBR footpegs are as plenty and as cheap as the GSXR's... (Just keep in mind that CBR 1000RR parts won't work as the levers are sparate from the peg)
Just extend the plate enough to add a pattern of boltholes for adjustability and you have the same function... The reason I didn't do it this way, was that with the SP2 swingarm, my plates meant the pegs ended up more narrow than stock, so I wanted to add width and I was doing it with my own basic tools, not CNC... Plus I had a the rearsets available for next to nothing...
Keep in mind that since there isn't space for nuts and such based on interference, so any holes for mounting the pegs to the plate needs to be threaded, ie it's a bit more work than just drilling a new set of holes, and it's a lot easier to have all that "standardized" and made at manufacture, not doing it yourself... The hole needs to be centered and straight, so basic cordless drill won't work, you need a drillpress and a thread tap...
Just extend the plate enough to add a pattern of boltholes for adjustability and you have the same function... The reason I didn't do it this way, was that with the SP2 swingarm, my plates meant the pegs ended up more narrow than stock, so I wanted to add width and I was doing it with my own basic tools, not CNC... Plus I had a the rearsets available for next to nothing...
Keep in mind that since there isn't space for nuts and such based on interference, so any holes for mounting the pegs to the plate needs to be threaded, ie it's a bit more work than just drilling a new set of holes, and it's a lot easier to have all that "standardized" and made at manufacture, not doing it yourself... The hole needs to be centered and straight, so basic cordless drill won't work, you need a drillpress and a thread tap...
Last edited by Tweety; 01-20-2011 at 07:14 AM.
01-20-2011 | 10:15 AM
#17
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From: Big Lick
Thanks Tweety. those are my thoughts too. I have a drill press, so that's easy enough. I was hoping to take your design and generalize it enough to allow options for all of us. the real key for me was having something made that would bolt up to the swingarm bolt and also the smaller stabilizing screw below it. We'll have to take a look at the clearance issue too.
Is yours aluminum or steel? I was planning aluminum thick enough to carry the load, but I honestly don't know if that's the right approach.
Is yours aluminum or steel? I was planning aluminum thick enough to carry the load, but I honestly don't know if that's the right approach.
01-20-2011 | 08:01 PM
#19
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From: Melbourne Australia
Keep in mind that since there isn't space for nuts and such based on interference, so any holes for mounting the pegs to the plate needs to be threaded, ie it's a bit more work than just drilling a new set of holes, and it's a lot easier to have all that "standardized" and made at manufacture, not doing it yourself... The hole needs to be centered and straight, so basic cordless drill won't work, you need a drillpress and a thread tap...
01-21-2011 | 07:12 AM
#20
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From: Big Lick
02-07-2011 | 03:13 PM
#24
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Ok, I finally had the time to measure these... This is my "drawings" for my adapters... Not complete by any means... Keep in mind this is not scaled... I gave up trying to find a decent Freeware Cad program to transfer my paper outlines/measurements...
So to use this, you need to look at measurements, not the image of the footrest, it's just there for reference... (So, no you can't print it and sketch it off...) I used the pivot bolt as my point of reference and measure it out in a grid... Also, all measurements are in mm, not inches, you get to convert them if you want it any other way... All measurements are +/- .2 mm
The two bolt holes I measured out, is where I placed the boltholes on my adapters... That placement allowed me to set the footpegs at the OEM position with the adjustable rearsets set "in the middle" of the optional holes... So these apply to my rearsets alone... Again, just for reference...
The marking for the OEM placement of the rearset is there... Use that as a point of reference and place the rearset of your choice there, measure out your starting position and your "star" of holes for adjustment... Make sure they don't go inside the rings, that's where you want a big nut, and the material intact...
The vertical reference I used is set to where the stock footpeg has the rubber horisontally... In my case I could ignore that, as I used round alu pegs, but if you are using OEM rearsets from another bike, keep that in mind when aligning stuff...
Also, the front outline on the chain side is somewhat important, as it follows the contour of the sprocket guard, not following the outline, makes it impossible to fit the footpeg/adapter...
I simplified mine by making the plate uniformly thick, countersinking the smaller bolts and adjusting the spacer length a bit... If you make a CNC version, you can make it nicer, I included the OEM measurements for reference...
So to use this, you need to look at measurements, not the image of the footrest, it's just there for reference... (So, no you can't print it and sketch it off...) I used the pivot bolt as my point of reference and measure it out in a grid... Also, all measurements are in mm, not inches, you get to convert them if you want it any other way... All measurements are +/- .2 mm
The two bolt holes I measured out, is where I placed the boltholes on my adapters... That placement allowed me to set the footpegs at the OEM position with the adjustable rearsets set "in the middle" of the optional holes... So these apply to my rearsets alone... Again, just for reference...
The marking for the OEM placement of the rearset is there... Use that as a point of reference and place the rearset of your choice there, measure out your starting position and your "star" of holes for adjustment... Make sure they don't go inside the rings, that's where you want a big nut, and the material intact...
The vertical reference I used is set to where the stock footpeg has the rubber horisontally... In my case I could ignore that, as I used round alu pegs, but if you are using OEM rearsets from another bike, keep that in mind when aligning stuff...
Also, the front outline on the chain side is somewhat important, as it follows the contour of the sprocket guard, not following the outline, makes it impossible to fit the footpeg/adapter...
I simplified mine by making the plate uniformly thick, countersinking the smaller bolts and adjusting the spacer length a bit... If you make a CNC version, you can make it nicer, I included the OEM measurements for reference...
