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question for the knee dragging hawkers

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Old 02-04-2010 | 05:58 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Hawkrider
If you can find a used Fox TC then that's a good shock. Otherwise there's Penske and Ohlins if you can find one. I spoke with the Racetech guys at the IMS in NYC and they are open to developing a rear shock for our VTRs. I start a separate thread about it.
I've got the Fox TC on mine, and +1 to this comment. Only downside is people constantly asking if I have nitrous on my bike.
Old 02-04-2010 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by dieschem
I've got the Fox TC on mine, and +1 to this comment. Only downside is people constantly asking if I have nitrous on my bike.
why don't you put a NOS sticker on your remote canister, then you'll have eliminated that downside.
Old 07-22-2010 | 01:02 PM
  #33  
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im hoping to do a rear shock over the winter and ive been playing the search game here for the last little while. so an f4i shock will bolt in but its shorter than ours thus lowering the *** end of the bike correct? from what ive read this will throw off the way the bike handles and itll handle like ****. and i just read something in this post regarding an increase in seat height with one of the swaps, hopefully thats not meant for the f4i shock with jaimes extension on it. also whats the stock f4i rated for weight wise? im starting to get close to out riding mine, im 248 right now and im finding that the back end occasionally feels like its a little soft and feels like its rebounding me, probably from over compressing it. it does have 53000km on it. so id like to do a cheap upgrade for now and eventually get jaime to give it the full treatment. maybe even grab the f4i shock, a stiffer spring and buy one of jaimes extensions if hes will to sell one
Old 07-22-2010 | 01:23 PM
  #34  
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Im pretty new too so I havent tried it, but can you drag your knee with stock pegs or do you have to buy rearsets?
Old 07-22-2010 | 02:05 PM
  #35  
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i believe that there are no rear sets available for these bikes. as for dragging knee, people do it. im getting pretty close myself, i just have to get off my seat a bit more. ill get a knee down by summers end
Old 07-22-2010 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by uchi
im hoping to do a rear shock over the winter and ive been playing the search game here for the last little while. so an f4i shock will bolt in but its shorter than ours thus lowering the *** end of the bike correct? from what ive read this will throw off the way the bike handles and itll handle like ****.
It's not that the F4 shock is shorter, it's TOO short. I'm not sure it would even fit, if it did the rear tire would almost rub the fender!

Originally Posted by uchi
so id like to do a cheap upgrade for now and eventually get jaime to give it the full treatment. maybe even grab the f4i shock, a stiffer spring and buy one of jaimes extensions if hes will to sell one
Sorry man, what I do is a conversion to the shock - not just an extension. That means you have to send the shock to me for the work to be performed on it. I sometimes even have donor F4 shocks available if that would help. Shoot me a PM when you are ready!
Old 07-22-2010 | 04:34 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by pwshadow
Im pretty new too so I havent tried it, but can you drag your knee with stock pegs or do you have to buy rearsets?
Yes you can. Rearsets are probably a good idea for track use. I'm already grinding stock pegs with "street" riding, and plan to get some rearsets and raise the rear with a 5mm shim.
Old 07-22-2010 | 05:32 PM
  #38  
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i just went out yesterday and dragged my knee in a parking lot
Old 07-22-2010 | 06:45 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Syclone
Yes you can. Rearsets are probably a good idea for track use. I'm already grinding stock pegs with "street" riding, and plan to get some rearsets and raise the rear with a 5mm shim.
try this solution for low pegs. works great and cost nuttin but a little time and a few pieces of aluminum.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...light=rearsets
Old 07-22-2010 | 07:26 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by nath981
try this solution for low pegs. works great and cost nuttin but a little time and a few pieces of aluminum.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...light=rearsets
that, or just work on you body position because there is no reason your pegs should be touching down on the street
Old 07-23-2010 | 04:55 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by jay956
that, or just work on you body position because there is no reason your pegs should be touching down on the street
may I respectfully disagree jay. Not everyone lives near a track and/or has the money to pay for it and the other requisites thereof. Further, it is a personal decision as long as your not botherin anyone else, **** it, do your thing with a little discretion perhaps. Aggression with discretion if you will. There are plenty of opportunities to drag hard parts on wide open turns in the back country and even on some nice on/off ramps. haha
Old 07-23-2010 | 05:01 AM
  #42  
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Nathan, I may be assuming too much, but what I read in Jay's comment was that with better body positioning, you can scrape your knee without touching hard parts down. I know i did. However, the problem I had was scraping the outside of my boots up. No matter how much I pulled my toes back, they were constantly scraping too. After the rearset install, no more problems with it.

Just a thought....
Old 07-23-2010 | 06:17 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Old Yeller
Nathan, I may be assuming too much, but what I read in Jay's comment was that with better body positioning, you can scrape your knee without touching hard parts down. I know i did. However, the problem I had was scraping the outside of my boots up. No matter how much I pulled my toes back, they were constantly scraping too. After the rearset install, no more problems with it.

Just a thought....
hell yeah. no problem draggin a knee w/o touching hard scraping hard parts. Hang off, stick the knee out and lean 45deg, then pull the knee in to get some serious lean. Ergo, putting the knee down serves as feeler to assess your lean angle so you can move to that point rather quickly, then if and when you increase lean angle you can do so judiciously from that point, at least on the street.
Old 07-23-2010 | 06:38 AM
  #44  
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nath thanks for that quick tip, it'll help out my riding skills a bit. I've never touched knee (LOL).
Old 07-23-2010 | 07:08 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by nothing
I've never touched knee (LOL).
except if you're on the track..... yoos a good boy huh.
Old 07-24-2010 | 10:37 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by nath981
...Aggression with discretion if you will. ...)
Exactly how I've managed to drag pegs. I know my form isn't 100%, but I was hanging off the bike with a knee down when I heard the metal scraping. I've thought about doing the $2 "strap" mod to the stock rearsets, but I plan on waiting to see what Dr Honda comes up with.

I have the same problem with boots, it seems that no matter how far I pull my toes up, I can feel the outside of my boot dragging, another reason for me to want rearsets.
Old 07-24-2010 | 11:52 AM
  #47  
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I did the "strap mod" (last year or the year before)which can be done easily in an hour. Hardly worth waiting for anything or anybody. If you have or can get some thick aluminum strips, it's so easy to drill and cut, it's a breeze. I wish would have known about it long ago.

Do it now and you can wait in peace, amen.hahaha

Last edited by nath981; 07-24-2010 at 06:44 PM.
Old 07-24-2010 | 12:57 PM
  #48  
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Slow Down , Law Breakers
Old 07-24-2010 | 02:42 PM
  #49  
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perfect, if a little money comes up in the near future ill gladly buy one from you just with my wedding 11 months away i need to curb my spending on things that arent really needed.

Originally Posted by JamieDaugherty
It's not that the F4 shock is shorter, it's TOO short. I'm not sure it would even fit, if it did the rear tire would almost rub the fender!



Sorry man, what I do is a conversion to the shock - not just an extension. That means you have to send the shock to me for the work to be performed on it. I sometimes even have donor F4 shocks available if that would help. Shoot me a PM when you are ready!
Old 07-25-2010 | 02:10 PM
  #50  
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parking lot dragging
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i know horrible picture
Old 08-02-2010 | 11:05 AM
  #51  
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better pic for people talking about the stock rearsets being low


still plenty of room to go after knee touching down
Old 08-02-2010 | 11:29 AM
  #52  
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Just remember that the first real hard part to touch down is the header in right hand turns. The pegs will move if you touch them down, the header will not......
Old 08-02-2010 | 12:03 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
Just remember that the first real hard part to touch down is the header in right hand turns. The pegs will move if you touch them down, the header will not......
Yeah... I have tried that... Not that fun... Got a dime sized hole in the header and a big scare for my troubles... And the peg feelers wheren't even worn completely of at that point... So I'd say the pegs are a non-issue...

Chassie setup and headers are the limitations on lean angle...
Old 08-02-2010 | 12:39 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Tweety
Yeah... I have tried that... Not that fun... Got a dime sized hole in the header and a big scare for my troubles... And the peg feelers wheren't even worn completely of at that point... So I'd say the pegs are a non-issue...

Chassie setup and headers are the limitations on lean angle...
I have a few scars on my header but never put a hole in it.....
It's not a whole lot of fun unloading the front tire when leaned that far over though....

That is why Moriwaki used to have the stage II header which needed the custom oil pan and relocated pick up. Then again you needed a racing license and references before they would sell you one, well at least back in '99 they did.
Old 08-02-2010 | 01:31 PM
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has anyone thought about tack welding a steal gaurd to the header? Might be beneficial for frequent racers like you Tweety.
Old 08-02-2010 | 02:03 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by pwshadow
has anyone thought about tack welding a steal gaurd to the header? Might be beneficial for frequent racers like you Tweety.
That might save the header but does nothing for levering the front wheel off the ground......
Old 08-02-2010 | 02:11 PM
  #57  
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I solved it by adjusting my bodyposition instead... Takes less work in the workshop and keeps my potbelly in check...

Might be counterproductive in terms of actual resulting work in the end tough...

Oh and honestly, if you make a hole like I did... Well, lets just say a hole is better than skating on a protector and ending up replacing other parts instead... On a side note I have managed it going the other way as well... Wasn't anymore fun sliding left than sliding right... But the good thing, I learned to not do that...
Old 08-03-2010 | 11:17 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by jay956
better pic for people talking about the stock rearsets being low


still plenty of room to go after knee touching down
put another 100lbs on your skinny ***, bring that knee in and lean more and you'll see no air under that little peg. hahaha
Old 08-03-2010 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by nath981
put another 100lbs on your skinny ***, bring that knee in and lean more and you'll see no air under that little peg. hahaha
i prefer to do that at a track, well except the weight part lol

Old 08-03-2010 | 07:18 PM
  #60  
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that's the safe place to do it for sure and I applaud you for that discretion. Dumb asses like me are relegated to the streets, unless I get a job or find someone to sponser me.haha
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