projector group buy?
#31
I am running a single. If they are aimed right there is not much need for brights. As far as props it goes beyond that, its a much safer setup if you are going to ride at night. Some people don't have the skill set to do it themselves. Usually people spend alot of money on HP gains and don't even consider safety on their list.
#32
well i run a bi-xenon setup with a sealed projector, and i honestly believe you do need it.... i mean when the single is brighter, the highbeam is above and beyond that, not to mention that this way my stuff will pass safety as well!!
but your rigth ppl always look beyond this, and dont consider that lighting is the most important thing on your bike for your personal safety.....
but your rigth ppl always look beyond this, and dont consider that lighting is the most important thing on your bike for your personal safety.....
#33
Very true. My first upgrades were brakes (who cares how fast you can go if you can't safely stop) and lighting in the form of an Eastern Beaver Relay kit and a 85/80W bulb. Someday, I'll be able to get an HID in. Suspension was the big change for this off-season.
#34
well if you want the HID done, i can have it done in 2 days, just need to know ahead of time to order up the parts for you.....
also keep in mind running a higher Watt bulb isnt always a good idea... since you said your running the 85/80
also keep in mind running a higher Watt bulb isnt always a good idea... since you said your running the 85/80
#35
I just want a dual light that will fit to the regular set up and give me plenty of light. I would like one if that is doable.
What is the cost and the turn around time involved? Anyone? anyone? Beuhler? beuhler?
What is the cost and the turn around time involved? Anyone? anyone? Beuhler? beuhler?
#36
as i said i am doing bi xenon, ie high and low beam set ups, as stated above im charging 350 for all the work, all the parts, to make it a plug and play setup, this comes complete with everything
if you dont want led's for daytime running lights or extra light, can subtract from the cost.... pm me if you want more details
if you dont want led's for daytime running lights or extra light, can subtract from the cost.... pm me if you want more details
#37
As for the 85/80W, no problems, ran it all last summer, didn't even make the headlight lense warm to the touch. Couple of threads concerning this matter. Once you get up to 100W, some other members have had problems there.
This was an inexpensive solution to brighter lights. $55 for the Eastern Beaver Kit shipped and $20 for the bulb.
I don't have pictures to prove it, but it is brighter than the H4 HID kits. A friend in the club runs the H4 HIDs and while they are brighter up close, I have more lighter at a distance.
#38
ive seen ppl bumping up watts in lights for years, on bikes, cars etc.... never really seen them be better then an hid, now if you just run a scattered hid bulb in a halogen base/light, then ya i could see that....
#42
for all interested in the set up, ill be away from the comp for a week from tomorrow, i will answer your emails as soon as i return, and i look forward to getting the few of these done for everyone.
ill let you all know how the situation is in port au prince, as thats where im off too
cheers
ill let you all know how the situation is in port au prince, as thats where im off too
cheers
#44
I love my HID.
I guess I should throw my thread out there.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...&highlight=hid
My retrofit has been running strong never an issue.
I guess I should throw my thread out there.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...&highlight=hid
My retrofit has been running strong never an issue.
#45
Thanks, i must say, its something that really makes me realize what i have, and how much i take things for granted....
but im back, and ready to do some lights.... lets get this stuff all ready to go
and btw, i wouldnt use an e46 headlight projector, its an open style projector mine are full units, not open style
#47
John,
I know you said that there are many options, and that you'll customize as requested.
Would you be able to post the price of say, what you would consider a base model? I interested in having one built by you, but would need to know what to set aside for it.
Something similar to what is being shown by most of the guys. Remove the stock reflect and use a projector with a Hi/Lo beam.
Erik
I know you said that there are many options, and that you'll customize as requested.
Would you be able to post the price of say, what you would consider a base model? I interested in having one built by you, but would need to know what to set aside for it.
Something similar to what is being shown by most of the guys. Remove the stock reflect and use a projector with a Hi/Lo beam.
Erik
#50
John,
I know you said that there are many options, and that you'll customize as requested.
Would you be able to post the price of say, what you would consider a base model? I interested in having one built by you, but would need to know what to set aside for it.
Something similar to what is being shown by most of the guys. Remove the stock reflect and use a projector with a Hi/Lo beam.
Erik
I know you said that there are many options, and that you'll customize as requested.
Would you be able to post the price of say, what you would consider a base model? I interested in having one built by you, but would need to know what to set aside for it.
Something similar to what is being shown by most of the guys. Remove the stock reflect and use a projector with a Hi/Lo beam.
Erik
well as it states, when i said i was doing them for 350 it was including the hid set up, the bi xenon projector, the shroud, the led's and or angel eyes....
now its the same cost for me to put eyes in or led's, i was just going to do those as a perk for the first few who get me to do them, so same price basically with or with out
now if i got 10 sets to do, ya i could cut the cost, cause then my parts cost would be less......
but as i said before, i could make it cheaper, using lower quality parts, but honestly id rather not do it then, if i cant do it the way id make my own, i feel like im cheaping out
#51
i belive there is enough room inside the casing for 2, granted i would have to run a smaller set of projectors, but it could be done... do i personally believe that there is that much benefit vs cost factor on that level? prob not, but if you want it done, i can get it done
cheers
#57
no problem, thats changed since then. i removed the leds and changed projectors. that single we used wasnt the best quality, used unit that came from a car and the bulb we had in it was crap aswell. bulb from my old plug and play setup. my new setup is fantastic. and bi xenon. and yes you need bi xenon especially if youre doing any kind of agressive night riding, once you lean that bike over you cant see through the corner, you need a high beam with no cut off line for that.
#58
Ball park idea, what is the right set up gonna cost to put on the bike? I see that if I want it done right I have to pull my stocker out and send it in for mods. I'm happy to do that when I get some coin tyogether.
#59
my complete setup in parts cost me $180 from the retrofit source. thats a bi xenon projector, morimoto ballast 5000k d2s bulb and harness. i put it in myself in a couple hours. not that hard to do. works great and its all plug and play. although im gonna run a relay to it for the new year as i was having some issues with my high beam coming on at times. heres what my low beam, looks like
#60
Uchi, the highbeam not coming on has nothing to do with a relay or not... I'm guessing you are running it at lowbeam and then going to highbeam and it goes dark?
If that's what's happening it's because the ballast gets a "hot-start" ie you cut power and flick it on again when going from high to low... That's easily cured with a diode between the supply lines keeping the ballast powered during the switch... But relays are a good idea anyways...
Here's a wiring diagram for wiring it up on the VTR the correct way...
If that's what's happening it's because the ballast gets a "hot-start" ie you cut power and flick it on again when going from high to low... That's easily cured with a diode between the supply lines keeping the ballast powered during the switch... But relays are a good idea anyways...
Here's a wiring diagram for wiring it up on the VTR the correct way...
Last edited by Tweety; 12-19-2010 at 09:39 AM.