PLEASE GIVE ME SOME SUGGESTION...URGENT
#32
I had the exact same experience on my Hawk back in April. Riding along and poof it's dead. 30A fuse was blown, replaced it, turned on the key poof it blew again. I had heard about the R/R giving out at about 25K miles, my bike had 24K on it. I was lucky enough to be able to use the R/R off my track bike (Honda F2) to swap it out with the one on the hawk and sure enough that was the problem, which I'm pretty sure is the problem you are having.
I bought a new R/R and installed it, also added the PC fan for extra protection from heat. Road the bike all summer then one day last month I'm riding along and something smells like it is burning, like boots on the exhaust, thought maybe I picked up some road grime on the exhaust or something. Shortly after that the dash goes dead, ut oh. Pull over and the bike just dies. Turns out the new R/R went but this time it krispy fried the connector going into it and melted some of the wires in the wiring harness.
I bought a new R/R and installed it, also added the PC fan for extra protection from heat. Road the bike all summer then one day last month I'm riding along and something smells like it is burning, like boots on the exhaust, thought maybe I picked up some road grime on the exhaust or something. Shortly after that the dash goes dead, ut oh. Pull over and the bike just dies. Turns out the new R/R went but this time it krispy fried the connector going into it and melted some of the wires in the wiring harness.
#33
Hello
Here are the things that I would do and in this order
1 disconect the negitive lead on the battery.
2 Take the tail plastic off of the bike not hard.
3 look over all wiring for bad spots. "brown, burnt, wire that is brittle or looks like it has been hot fix it if you find it. Make sure you look good where the front of the seat hooks up lots of bends in that area
4 Now put braker in you can buy it from auto parts store. anything 30 or under will work. hook it up in place of fuse with 2 test leads clamp on one side flat spade on the other end to put where fuse goes in. Now when it draws over 30 amps or what ever its rated at it will blow cool down and become a closed switch again.
5 now we need to know if the braker blows as soon as we hook up cable. starter would not blow it untill button is pushed unless starter relay is bad and they most likly fail open or no start So at this point we are going one way or the other Starter or v/r stator windings. rember that connectors are the frist place to look becouse are most likely place to fail but not the only one.
6 if it does not fallow cable to the starter and check that it is hooked up good and not touching anything but the stud. also tap on the starter lightly with a hammer to free up brushs if hung up. then try again. rember not to leave battery hooked up just time to test it and move on.
Try all these things of the top of my head. Let me know I will look in manual at wire scamatic and we can go from there. you will save cash if you get the braker. you have a dead short someware should not be to hard to find you need to do it step by step or you are sort of like pissing into the wind.
talk to you soon. also if you pm me I will give you my email so I can use better editor to converse with you.
Here are the things that I would do and in this order
1 disconect the negitive lead on the battery.
2 Take the tail plastic off of the bike not hard.
3 look over all wiring for bad spots. "brown, burnt, wire that is brittle or looks like it has been hot fix it if you find it. Make sure you look good where the front of the seat hooks up lots of bends in that area
4 Now put braker in you can buy it from auto parts store. anything 30 or under will work. hook it up in place of fuse with 2 test leads clamp on one side flat spade on the other end to put where fuse goes in. Now when it draws over 30 amps or what ever its rated at it will blow cool down and become a closed switch again.
5 now we need to know if the braker blows as soon as we hook up cable. starter would not blow it untill button is pushed unless starter relay is bad and they most likly fail open or no start So at this point we are going one way or the other Starter or v/r stator windings. rember that connectors are the frist place to look becouse are most likely place to fail but not the only one.
6 if it does not fallow cable to the starter and check that it is hooked up good and not touching anything but the stud. also tap on the starter lightly with a hammer to free up brushs if hung up. then try again. rember not to leave battery hooked up just time to test it and move on.
Try all these things of the top of my head. Let me know I will look in manual at wire scamatic and we can go from there. you will save cash if you get the braker. you have a dead short someware should not be to hard to find you need to do it step by step or you are sort of like pissing into the wind.
talk to you soon. also if you pm me I will give you my email so I can use better editor to converse with you.
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