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Are long wheelies a danger?

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Old 10-10-2013 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
Name the bike please. Make, Model, Year
Yamaha YZF600R all years 96-07 was the last bike I had experience with, mine was a 2000

Sorry I had missed this post earlier. Yamaha service manual even calls it a level sensor not a pressure sensor
Old 10-10-2013 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by insulinboy
Yamaha YZF600R all years 96-07 was the last bike I had experience with, mine was a 2000

Sorry I had missed this post earlier. Yamaha service manual even calls it a level sensor not a pressure sensor


Yup i was waiting for that.. Absolutely correct the R6's and R1's (and FJ's. likely other Yamaha) use a level sensor... and do not have a pressure sensor at all. Yamaha are the odd ones though..
MOST bikes (besides Yamaha) have a pressure sensor.. and NOT a oil level sensor.

IN any case/// the bike in question 1998-2005 VTR1000F.. it's a pressure sensor.

Last edited by E.Marquez; 10-10-2013 at 10:06 AM.
Old 10-10-2013 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez


Yup i was waiting for that.. Absolutely correct the R6's and R1's (and FJ's. likely other Yamaha) use a level sensor... and do not have a pressure sensor at all. Yamaha are the odd ones though..
MOST bikes (besides Yamaha) have a pressure sensor.. and NOT a oil level sensor.

IN any case/// the bike in question 1998-2005 VTR1000F.. it's a pressure sensor.
All my motorcycle experiance (well the brunt of it that haven't been two cycle anyway) were Yamaha's. Hence in my experience most have had level sensors and I just assumed everyone was the the same. I do apologize for my incorrect assumption.
Old 10-10-2013 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkGnarsby
Not quite sure what to take from this... Everybody's talking about oil pressure, and some people say not to wheelie others say it should be ok...


As 7moore7 stated the oil pick up is in the rear of the engine, with this bit of knowlege you should be ok as long as oil level is correct and not low. If the oil light come on set her down and check oil level.

I still have one issue with it and thats if the oil does get airated it could still have pressure to trip the oil pressure switch but have air pockets in the oil, so I would recomend if you are going to be doing a lot of wheelies at least keeping your oil filled to the max line or just above to where the whole sight glass is covered to help insure that doesn't happen.

The reason the SV650's have issues with getting starved for oil is because there oil pick up is actually machined into their cases and so with that it is probably going to be higher up than the oil pick up on your adverage sport bike (including the hawk)

Also I must say I do love that on your other thread everyone was bashing you for only being 17 and having a hawk as your first street bike and being wreckless, but on this thread no one even put 2 and 2 together.
Old 10-10-2013 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sailorjerry
Also I must say I do love that on your other thread everyone was bashing you for only being 17 and having a hawk as your first street bike and being wreckless, but on this thread no one even put 2 and 2 together.
??? Why would anyone care if he splats? .. His choice.. his road rash.

We were here talking Tech... He asked tech, we answered tech.

Only one bringing in behavior was.. well. YOU

Old 10-10-2013 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
??? Why would anyone care if he splats? .. His choice.. his road rash.

We were here talking Tech... He asked tech, we answered tech.

Only one bringing in behavior was.. well. YOU



On this thread, I just thought it was funny how some read and chimed in that talked crap about this kid having a hawk as his first bike on his thread about kick stand causing the bike not to start, which you chimed in on Erik.

But on this thread about him doing long wheelies not a single one of those same people chimed in on the subject of how he was too young/ inexpereinced to have a hawk.

I don't care if he's 17 or 55 there are some 17 year olds that will ride safe and 35 year olds who ride like a$$ holes and put their life and others in danger.. I don't judge him for age one bit.
Old 10-10-2013 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by sailorjerry
On this thread, I just thought it was funny how some read and chimed in that talked crap about this kid having a hawk as his first bike on his thread about kick stand causing the bike not to start, which you chimed in on Erik.
Your right I did respond to that thread,, here lets look at what i said..
Originally Posted by E.Marquez
OK,, your saying..
12+ volts and 30 or more amps (car battery with enough juice to start the car) connected directly to both the starter (Ground) and the starter positive terminal does not result in the starter spinning at a normal to very fast speed?


Starters are not known issues on the VTR, but it is an electromechanical assembly and as such capable of failing in a number of ways.
Where, how //WHAT did you read any place in what i posted that even comes close to what you just inferred I was part of ?????


I offend enough folks on my own. don't need your lumping me into to something I had nothing to do with ..

And with that Im off for an after work ride .. might even a bit and

So long as I don't have to for the trip home.... I guess my motor help up fine with the front end occasionally higher then the rear.

Last edited by E.Marquez; 10-10-2013 at 08:29 PM.
Old 10-10-2013 | 04:47 PM
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I noticed at some point, manufacturers moved the oil filter from the front of the engine to the rear. I'm no engineer, but that tells me something. Oil filter in front, wheel in the air, oil moves away from the filter and pickup. Oil filter in rear, wheel in the air, oil sits back towards the oil filter and pickup. No?

I haven't done much more than a li'l power wheelie on my 'Hawk since I bought it. I seemed to be able to hoist my F3 in the air easier than this thing. When I hear people call this thing a "wheelie machine," I wonder what the hell I'm doing wrong or if my 'Hawk is sick. Maybe I'm just too skeered to give 'er hell?!
Old 10-10-2013 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by VTArrrgh!
I noticed at some point, manufacturers moved the oil filter from the front of the engine to the rear. I'm no engineer, but that tells me something. Oil filter in front, wheel in the air, oil moves away from the filter and pickup. Oil filter in rear, wheel in the air, oil sits back towards the oil filter and pickup. No?
No.. the oil filter is filled with oil via pressure..
It's not a open coffee cup that when tipped will slosh or allow oil to "move" out of it due to orientation.

So long as both oil pumps are turning and the pick up is sucking oil the motor is getting oil pressure fed lubrication.
Old 10-10-2013 | 09:39 PM
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Just so people aren't confused, in our engines, there is a main oil pump and another oil pump for the cooler.

Edit: If anyone was curious, I just looked up what the oil pressure should be in our engines...85 psi.

Last edited by CruxGNZ; 10-10-2013 at 09:41 PM. Reason: more info.
Old 10-11-2013 | 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
Your right I did respond to that thread,, here lets look at what i said..


Where, how //WHAT did you read any place in what i posted that even comes close to what you just inferred I was part of ?????


I offend enough folks on my own. don't need your lumping me into to something I had nothing to do with ..

Ok, I did write that incorrect, because i wasn't trying to infer that at all.
Just that you had chimed in on the post so I am sure you read the other posts.

Last edited by Wolverine; 10-11-2013 at 07:44 AM. Reason: quote wrap
Old 10-11-2013 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sailorjerry
but the reason it will effect the front before the rear is because all that oil starts to drain from the pan, in tooooo, you guessed it the rear cylinder.
If oil pooled into the rear cylinder the result would be hydraulic lock. As Jamie said, it's a pressurized system. As another said, it's pressure is 85pis. So long as the pickup is under oil, it will circulate through the whole engine no matter what realistic outside forces are acting on it.

Does a sustained wheelie force more oil back in the pan than full throttle acceleration?
Old 10-11-2013 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by davidka
If oil pooled into the rear cylinder the result would be hydraulic lock.
Hydrolocking an engine takes pressure inside the cylinder to cause it to be unable to complet a compression stroke, since the oil wouldn't drain into the cylinder bore, but into the block it would be impossible to hydolock an engine when the oil pooled up in the rear of the engine.

We aren't talking about oil entering the bore, the bore is a sealed member and any leaks that would allow oil in would allow compression out causing the engine to run like **** if at all.



Originally Posted by davidka
Does a sustained wheelie force more oil back in the pan than full throttle acceleration?
Depends on the wheelie, a balance point wheelie, of course. Anything less than that would depend on how high the front wheel is off the ground.
Old 10-11-2013 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
Edit: If anyone was curious, I just looked up what the oil pressure should be in our engines...85 psi.
The pressure is a minimum of 85psi @ 5k rpm (according to shop manual) As the revs increase and decrease this number would change as well.

The faster the pump spins the more oil it pushes = more pressure

The slower the pump spins the less oil it pushes = less pressure.



My main concern after everything I've read is where does the oil come out of in the front cylinder? My Guess (read guess as in I don't know and I'm not an engineer but it makes sense to me) would be in the top of the cylinder so that it can drain down onto the exhaust valves, at a certain angle if this were true then the oil could wash down the top of the cylinder and never reach the exhaust valves causing oil starvation and damage to the exhaust cam. Again I don't know and would love someone to inform me right or wrong
Old 10-11-2013 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by sailorjerry
Hydrolocking an engine takes pressure inside the cylinder to cause it to be unable to complet a compression stroke, since the oil wouldn't drain into the cylinder bore, but into the block it would be impossible to hydolock an engine when the oil pooled up in the rear of the engine.

We aren't talking about oil entering the bore, the bore is a sealed member and any leaks that would allow oil in would allow compression out causing the engine to run like **** if at all.
You said "in the rear cylinder". You did not specify how much oil or on which side of the piston (would the head fill? underside of the cylinders?) Oil accumulation on the underside of the piston can cause plenty of problems. Hydro lock is probably the wrong terminology but it's already been proven that oil won't accumulate on one end of the engine or the other if pressure is maintained so I guess it's a moot point.
Old 10-11-2013 | 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by davidka
You said "in the rear cylinder". You did not specify how much oil or on which side of the piston (would the head fill? underside of the cylinders?) Oil accumulation on the underside of the piston can cause plenty of problems. Hydro lock is probably the wrong terminology but it's already been proven that oil won't accumulate on one end of the engine or the other if pressure is maintained so I guess it's a moot point.

Yes I didn't specify if it was inside the cylinder because if oil can make it in there is something more to worry about than wheeling. I was refuring to accumulation to the underside of the piston still in the crank case.

Like you said, it's a moot point. If the pick up is in the rear of the pan, oil level is correct, and the light doesn't come on you should still have enough flow to keep it lubbed. Go for it.
Old 10-11-2013 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by insulinboy

The faster the pump spins the more oil it pushes = more pressure
Kind if.. there are TWO pressure relief valves in the system, one for each pump side...
the oil pressure spec of 85 psi @5,000 RPM is going to be close to the max you see before the pressure relief valves open.

And then there is the fact, regardless of how fast you spin the pump, it will only move so much oil before it cavitates, or is other wise limited in oil moment due to system design.

Last edited by E.Marquez; 10-11-2013 at 10:06 AM.
Old 10-11-2013 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by davidka
but it's already been proven that oil won't accumulate on one end of the engine or the other if pressure is maintained so I guess it's a moot point.
I dont think that was said.. or at least not intended to be understood that way.

Oil in the bottom of the motor (oil pan) can and does slosh around, and or move to the rear of the motor when the front is elevated (wheelie, steep drive way, up hill) .. the point made was so long as the oil pump pick up is still submerged in oil,, the oil FILTER in the front of the motor will still be full,, the oil will not move away from it.
Old 10-11-2013 | 12:50 PM
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I wouldn't recommend doing it for too long... I mean lets be honest, popping a wheelie here and there isn't that big of a deal and harmful for your engine. BUT doing long wheelies is definitely going t ocause a problem... why even risk it..?
Old 10-11-2013 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by JamieDaugherty
Funny how people worry about the front cylinder - it is a pressurized oiling system and gravity will not "drain" the oil away from the front cylinder. Whenever you hear this comment bells should start going off telling you that person has no clue at all of what they are talking about. Watch your oil light. If it isn't glowing you still have pressure and all is well.
+1 Totally agree, in addition, if you do have a problem with pressure falling due to the oil sump position, you should look at bikes that have a dry sump instead and you will not have any worries any more!!! Something like the Buell, XR650 and more... Or maybe even a Hardly Sportster
Old 10-15-2013 | 02:37 PM
  #51  
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Well... So far, after at least three ten mile long wheelies, my engine hasn't suffered any noticeable ill effects... But then again, I doubt the wheelies would be the reason if I kill it, since it lives a hard life with me... Yes, ten miles... Very long straight and wide double lane road... Middle of the night, nobody much around, and I wanted to see if I could... (And yes, it was a couple of years ago last time, and I might have matured a bit since then... But not so much that I wouldn't put it past me to get the idea in my head again...)

But seriously though... Pressurised system or not, there are parts of the oil passages that are questionable in design to begin with, and can probably cause "blind spots" if the oil pressure drops even slightly, so high angle wheelies could most likely cause damage, since the oil might prefer an easier route than the questionable ones...

However, high angle here means above balance point really, and that's not something you ride for an extended period, so it's not an issue really, unless you stand the bike on it's **** and rev it...

So 12'clock wheelies are probably a bad idea... In more ways than one... Other than that... The oil is the least of your worries... Cops, and binning it are more immediate issues to deal with...

Last edited by Tweety; 10-15-2013 at 02:41 PM.
Old 10-16-2013 | 10:52 AM
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So much mis-information in this thread. SOOOO MUCH. If you have ample oil pressure, your front cylinder will nor run dry, period. It won't do it any quicker than the rear. PERIOD. End of discussion. When the system is working with 85psi at 5krpm, as long as there is ample oil for the pickup, it WILL make its way to the front cylinder. It WILL get flung to all the parts it needs to be on, because not everything is reliant on pressure to be lubed. Things like wrist pins, chain guides, etc all rely on being splashed with oil. And they will get lubed.
Old 10-16-2013 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by msethhunter
So much mis-information in this thread. SOOOO MUCH. Things like wrist pinsall rely on being splashed with oil. .
Wrist pin is pressure fed oil.. not splashed lubed
Old 10-16-2013 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
Wrist pin is pressure fed oil.. not splashed lubed

Not being an *** here, just curious.

Please explain how the wrist pin is pressure fed..... of all my years of working on engines this would be a first...
Old 10-16-2013 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sailorjerry
Not being an *** here, just curious.

Please explain how the wrist pin is pressure fed..... of all my years of working on engines this would be a first...
Good catch, and no offense taken... I stand corrected in the term I used

I suppose, it would be more correct to say pressure fed oil is directed at the hole in the rod which is a path to the wrist pin. Common design..

Some may call that splash lubed... But to me, splash lube is an oil slinger on a Briggs and Stratton engine at the crank throwing oil every-ware.

I'll agree .. it's not pressure fed like the crank pin.

Last edited by E.Marquez; 10-16-2013 at 12:18 PM.
Old 10-16-2013 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
Good catch, and no offense taken... I stand corrected in the term I used

I suppose, it would be more correct to say pressure fed oil is directed at the hole in the rod which is a path to the wrist pin. Common design..

Some may call that splash lubed... But to me, splash lube is an oil slinger on a Briggs and Stratton engine at the crank throwing oil every-ware.

I'll agree .. it's not pressure fed like the crank pin.

Even then though the oil passages in the cranks are to feed the main bearings, with out the use of a piston cooling jet (used on diesel engines mainly) there isn't and pressurized flow headed to the top rod or bottom of the piston, the only thing that will make it up there is oil flung off the crank, the reason this isn't needed on gas engines is because the combustion temperatures do not get high enough constitute the use of a piston cooling jet.

That being said, no it is not a splash lubed engine but there are some items that only get lubed by oil slinging from the crank and other moving parts.

Also there really isn't a need for the rod, or wrist pin to be pressure fed because of the fact that the wrist pin doesn't need much oil film between it self and the rod because of its slower speeds. in theory yes the wrist pin could get hotter due to lack of oil slung to it, or even have more wear than normal, but it is uncommon to ever see a wrist pin fail due to it's shear size and grade of metal it is made of the piston, rod, or pin retaining clip (if it's not pressed in) would fail long before the pin itself would.
Old 10-16-2013 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
Wrist pin is pressure fed oil.. not splashed lubed
And this is why I take everything you say about your engine knowledge with a grain of salt. You have just enough knowledge to be dangerous.
Old 10-16-2013 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by sailorjerry
Even then though the oil passages in the cranks are to feed the main bearings, with out the use of a piston cooling jet (used on diesel engines mainly) there isn't and pressurized flow headed to the top rod or bottom of the piston, the only thing that will make it up there is oil flung off the crank, the reason this isn't needed on gas engines is because the combustion temperatures do not get high enough constitute the use of a piston cooling jet.

That being said, no it is not a splash lubed engine but there are some items that only get lubed by oil slinging from the crank and other moving parts.

Also there really isn't a need for the rod, or wrist pin to be pressure fed because of the fact that the wrist pin doesn't need much oil film between it self and the rod because of its slower speeds. in theory yes the wrist pin could get hotter due to lack of oil slung to it, or even have more wear than normal, but it is uncommon to ever see a wrist pin fail due to it's shear size and grade of metal it is made of the piston, rod, or pin retaining clip (if it's not pressed in) would fail long before the pin itself would.

I've seen one, and only one wrist pin failure due to overheating. It was obvious because there was a lot of discoloration. But we never figured out why. The engine was a few years old, so I don't think it was a manufacturing defect.
Old 10-16-2013 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by msethhunter
And this is why I take everything you say about your engine knowledge with a grain of salt. You have just enough knowledge to be dangerous.
LOL, feel free to ignore my posts... I really could care less... Im secure in my knowledge and experience... and could give a damn what you think about them..
Have a great day.
Old 10-16-2013 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by msethhunter
I've seen one, and only one wrist pin failure due to overheating. It was obvious because there was a lot of discoloration. But we never figured out why. The engine was a few years old, so I don't think it was a manufacturing defect.
If you had more experience, you would have seen more

I've pulled down many engines, 4 stroke, 2 stroke, auto, truck and motorcycle that had damaged wrist pins / wrist pin bores in the piston due to lack of lube, over heat, oil debris, failed circlips or Teflon buttons.

It's hardly uncommon ... though not common in a serviceable motor that is just worn out.

But hey, you don't trust what I say... so carry on...your just way to educated and experienced to listen to me.



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