Install: Spiegler superbike yoke
#1
Install: Spiegler superbike yoke
Today I installed a spiegler yoke and 7/8th Renthal flat bars. I did not use any aftermarket parts, not did anything have to be modded.
1. Remove controls and bars as stated in the manual. A knife edge works well for getting the snap ring out of the slot.
2. Remove the plastic stopper and steering stem nut then place the smaller supplied washer in the recess. (Sorry, no picture)
3. Place yoke over the forks and use a rubber mallet and piece of wood to tap the yoke into place, flush with the stock upper triple.
4. Place larger supplied washer in the recess on the spiegler yoke and install the supplied nut. Then replace the plastic stopper.
5. Install the new bars, 7/8th flat bars in my case, and route the throttle through the inside of the forks so they no longer pass in-front of the fork but behind the fork.
And this is what you get:
6. This is when the fun starts: start to mock the controls. This is pretty much feel as you go but I did find it helpful to move the forks down in the clamps a few mm to help clear the brake reservoir.
You can see how much I moved the forks.
7. Tabs inside the control group, kill switch, and throttle clamp will need to be removed or you can drill holes in the new bars for them to index in. I chose to remove the posts.
8. With stock MCs and levers etc. some fitting is required. The brake side fits ok, however the clutch side does not fit as well. The MC piston is longer:
9. After a little fitting I got it to work. I still have full steer lock without any lines kinking nor stretching.
Notes:
After removing the barends from the stock bars (Used a brake tool to help depress and clean the holes in the stock bars and penetrating oil to help release the bar ends) I found out they do not fit in the new bars.
I decided to media blast the yoke to clean up the machine marks and dirt. Make sure to clean the threads before placking the bolts back in:
As stated in many threads before, a radial MC would work much better for this particular application, but funds dictate what can happen and what one can dream about right?
Hope this helps anyone thinking about this kit. Let me know if there is anything I forgot. This is my first how to, just trying to give back to the site I have taken so much from.
1. Remove controls and bars as stated in the manual. A knife edge works well for getting the snap ring out of the slot.
2. Remove the plastic stopper and steering stem nut then place the smaller supplied washer in the recess. (Sorry, no picture)
3. Place yoke over the forks and use a rubber mallet and piece of wood to tap the yoke into place, flush with the stock upper triple.
4. Place larger supplied washer in the recess on the spiegler yoke and install the supplied nut. Then replace the plastic stopper.
5. Install the new bars, 7/8th flat bars in my case, and route the throttle through the inside of the forks so they no longer pass in-front of the fork but behind the fork.
And this is what you get:
6. This is when the fun starts: start to mock the controls. This is pretty much feel as you go but I did find it helpful to move the forks down in the clamps a few mm to help clear the brake reservoir.
You can see how much I moved the forks.
7. Tabs inside the control group, kill switch, and throttle clamp will need to be removed or you can drill holes in the new bars for them to index in. I chose to remove the posts.
8. With stock MCs and levers etc. some fitting is required. The brake side fits ok, however the clutch side does not fit as well. The MC piston is longer:
9. After a little fitting I got it to work. I still have full steer lock without any lines kinking nor stretching.
Notes:
After removing the barends from the stock bars (Used a brake tool to help depress and clean the holes in the stock bars and penetrating oil to help release the bar ends) I found out they do not fit in the new bars.
I decided to media blast the yoke to clean up the machine marks and dirt. Make sure to clean the threads before placking the bolts back in:
As stated in many threads before, a radial MC would work much better for this particular application, but funds dictate what can happen and what one can dream about right?
Hope this helps anyone thinking about this kit. Let me know if there is anything I forgot. This is my first how to, just trying to give back to the site I have taken so much from.
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