I have been noticing that most of the VTRs I'm finding for sale still have the OEM CCTs installed, and most of these bikes have 20K or more miles on them. Not quite sure what this is saying. It's either saying that the failure rate of the OEM CCTs isn't that high, or it's saying that all of these bikes are about to destroy themselves. I'm a bit apprehensive about installing the manual CCTs myself, just because it's something I've never done before. I'm fairly well mechanically inclined, but I know these metric bikes can be pretty complicated. I would rather find one that already has the manual ones installed, but I'm not going to let that be the deciding factor...overall condition of the bike is my first priority. If it still looks nice, and runs well, more than likely its probably been taken care of fairly well...

 

I own a 98 that I bought new. It has 89,000 miles on it now. I replaced mine with new oem at 36,000. I don't know if i'm lucky or stupid. I'ts a gamble like everything else in life. I don't know how many Hawks were built, but would hope that the percentage of failures would be low single digits. I don't recall hearing of them being revised in the later models.

 

Can't say what the percentage failure rate is, high single digits? More? Enough that the advice is to ditch the manuals. Some have replaced the stock part at intervals and have had good luck. Is that just luck? Since the exact cause of the spring failing is not for certain, there is no way to predict at what point failure occurs. For me it's not worth the chance of ruining the engine.
Not that difficult. Most important is that you understand how to accurately determine TDC on the compression stroke. When I did mine I did not remove the valve covers. So in can successively be done without removing the covers. But, when I did the valve clearance check a while after the CCT install, I found that the tension was a bit tight. The safest way is to remove the valve covers. Removing the covers also lets you set the tension without guessing. The instructions of finger tight is very subjective.
There is an alternative, one that has been sitting on my work bench for over a year now. Someday soon, I hope.
CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) Fail Safe Mod. (aka Stopper Mod) - VTR1000.ORG

No revisions. Same part on all years.

 

I think the Cap'n meant ditch the autos / stock CCT's.

A higher mileage bike with stockers may have had them replaced with new stock acct's. That's one option. Any option is better that ruining your engine.

 

I wouldn't mind removing the cam covers (as long as new gaskets can still be had) to do the swap, I just don't want to remove the carbs. There's way to many hoses and cables involved when doing this...

 

After going back and reading through the link posted in my thread about CCTs, I now see that the carbs have to come off in order to remover the head covers, or at least the front one. Crap! One of the owners of a VTR that I actually rode did his, and he said he swapped his out without removing the head covers. He removed the gas tank and air box so he could get to the front one. He then rotated the crank to the "FT" mark until he got on the compression stroke (you can open the carb and see when the valves are closed). He then removed the OEM piece and installed the manual finger tight + 1/4 turn. He then repeated that procedure by getting the rear cylinder lined up on the "RT" mark. As long as the bike was running, and you don't somehow make the chain skip a tooth during this procedure, everything should be lined up properly. Then, while letting the engine idle, he adjusted them one at time by sound. Not enough tension and the chain rattles. Too much and the engine RPMs drop. He turned them in until the engine slowed, then backed them out 1/4 turn. Apply blue Loc Tite to threads...he said the bike's had them on this way for several years now, and he's never had to adjust them...his bike ran strong too! I haven't decided which way I'm going to do them yet, but I dread the thought of having to remove the carbs...

 

The carbs don't have to be removed to get the valve/cam covers off. This is from direct experience. It's a tight clearance on the front, but doable. Once the covers are off you will be able to see the position of the cams.

 

I hope you're right, I'll see if I can get the covers off without removing the carbs...

 

Don't remember if my bike had a PAIR-ectomy at that point and if it makes any difference for removal. I don't think so. Good wrenching.

 

I guess I'm too much of a noob to the VTR world, that went right over my head...

 

So even if the bike has the plastic trey on top of the front cover it can still be removed without removing the carbs?

 

If you are removing head covers, you’re going to want to remove carbs. Then while in there, you check valve clearances.

 

I will never WANT to remove the carbs...

 

I don't remember removing the carbs, but my recall is not what it used to be.

 

Didn't say HAD to... I have for each of the 4 that I've done.

 

I'm thinking if the plastic tray piece can be removed without removing the carbs, then I don't see a need to remove the carbs. The carbs themselves aren't really in the way of anything. I still don't know what the purpose of the plastic piece is and I may just remove it permanently...that's the only thing I can see that's blocking access to the front head cover...

 

You don't have to remove the carbs

You can verify top dead center by sticking a straw into the Cylinder with the plugs out

I also adjust my MCCT By sound

You back it off while running till it clatters and then tighten it up till it just stops rattling

However it may be a good idea to check the velves while you're at it.

Getting the front valve cover off is most challenging but doable including but duable I recommend using a piece of cardboard so you don't scratch it up on the underside of the frame.

I have a 111000 miles on my 98 and have never changed the valve cover gaskets though I do get a little Wet spot on the front cylinder no big deal

 

As everyone knows there are two top dead centers. The good one and the bad one. Don't get them mixed up!

 

Did you really want me to preface TDC on compression?

TDC on exhaust is not "bad" just not what is needed.

But I Get you're trying to be humorous.