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Hours spent, lots of money gone, not feeling safe on road advice plz :(

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Old 04-13-2013 | 07:03 PM
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Hours spent, lots of money gone, not feeling safe on road advice plz :(

the last 2 months have been a mess.. my old carbs were no good, Ordered a new pair... seller sent me a pair of carbs for 100$ only 800 miles on them, except the TPS was broke and that was a big thing I needed.. long story short

carbs are now in, i've had all my upgrades on my bike for 6 months, i havn't rode it in last 3 months and finally I hope I am somewhat right in this and I am almost out of money so let me know anything I could do to prevent/help/keep this bike for a long time to come..

got the 3rd set of carbs, put them in bike.. everytime i was on road it would go back and forth and it literally felt like the tires were going to fall off while i was driving, i rode my bike for 3 months before any problem like that was fault.
took it to shop.. cost me 500 or something like that they replaced rear bearing they said i was lucky to be alive.. a week later i was feeling the same feeling, just not as intense.. its a kind of back and forth motion at random times on my bike, and im almost positive after spending more times reading thru manual and this site , my carbs are somehow not correct..

my carb set up, tps 500, #48 jet, 3 shim back, 2 shim front, epoxy 1 of the front holes in slide, the fuel screws are exact as write up, now as far as the other sync screws, since i got the carbs off ebay, should I just follow the manual exactly ??? I need to refill the coolant, change the oil, and put a new oil filter on.. i have a oem air filter, my chain and sprockets and everything buyable has been upgraded.... i know im all over the place but i've literally taken these carbs out over 10 times in last month and im lost.. i got his back in october.. jamiedaughtry is sending me a new washer and bolt to put my lever back on properly.. every 2 minutes i have to bend down while driving to tighten bolt.. also my exhaust was dented from the bottom pretty bad, no holes... and my bike has 56,000 kilometers.. i have no idea who or what was done to it before in europe... pleaseee im going to get the coolant, oil, filter, all of that tomorrow.. should i take the carbs out again ? should i screw with fuel filter screws?? hearing my problems i have... can any of you experts explain to me what order and what i should do?? or if i have my carbs off if their is anything i should be doing as well to bike, like gaskets, sealant, all of that... also every since i got my cct's put in, the bike has a loud clanking sound and the professionals who installed it said that was how bike sounds... but alot of these people have suggested bad **** that some of you have said dont listen to them because vtr is a different, special kind of bike... so please i know im all over the place im just frustrated and put alot into bike and im ready to just ride and enjoy it, i have next 3 days of peace and no work or homework or tests to take so i can relax and work on my bike... also there is the original exhausts on them , for over 30k miles, should I replace them or are they ok
Old 04-13-2013 | 07:23 PM
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Are there any SH owners in Las Vegas that can give this bike a look over?
Old 04-13-2013 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RWhisen
Are there any SH owners in Las Vegas that can give this bike a look over?
im not sure.. i have never asked... all my upgrades are below me.. thats on top of what i just spent in last few weeks.. i really believe my carbs are not synced right, becuz i had them test ride it and 3 people said its fine, but i think they just gunned it didn't actually ride it for a bit... i just wanna make sure I do this right this time, I guess i'll just do the best I can, but the manual and way of syncing carbs I hope it goes with the changes made to it
Old 04-13-2013 | 09:25 PM
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Shane I agree you are all over the place. If you are replacing bearings it has nothing to do with carbs! I don't know what you mean by falling off the tires unless the center of the tread is flattened so when you do bend it over it feels like you are going to lose it.

Nothing you said indicates a carb problem unless I missed something, you didn't say anything about driveability issues so I'm not sure what problems you want to address.

I would suggest you shorten your posting to "just the facts", I don't care what you've done or what you did that works! Simply define the 2 or 3 biggest issues in as few words as possible and we'll try to help.
Old 04-13-2013 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by HRCA#1
Shane I agree you are all over the place. If you are replacing bearings it has nothing to do with carbs! I don't know what you mean by falling off the tires unless the center of the tread is flattened so when you do bend it over it feels like you are going to lose it.

Nothing you said indicates a carb problem unless I missed something, you didn't say anything about driveability issues so I'm not sure what problems you want to address.

I would suggest you shorten your posting to "just the facts", I don't care what you've done or what you did that works! Simply define the 2 or 3 biggest issues in as few words as possible and we'll try to help.
ok. im going to get up early, change my fluids and get the carbs properly synced. where can i get a vacuum gauge used to do it properly?how expensive are they
Old 04-14-2013 | 01:26 AM
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Vacuum Carburetor Synchronizer Carb Sync Gauge 2 Cylinder Bike Honda CB CL 350 | eBay
Old 04-14-2013 | 01:28 AM
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I agree with HRCA we need more to go on than backwards and forwards movement etc. Take a deep breath, step back from the bike for now, have a break and think about it. Sometimes stepping away and going back later with a fresh mind helps loads.

I'm not sure if this is anything to do with carbs. At first when you said back and forwards movement I thought maybe cush drive rubbers, suspension linkage maybe. then when you mentioned the wheels feeling like they are not on the ground, I thought what are your tyre conditions like. So unfortunately this is not easy to diagnose unless you are more descriptive as to what your symptoms are.

(:-})
Old 04-14-2013 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cybercarl
I agree with HRCA we need more to go on than backwards and forwards movement etc. Take a deep breath, step back from the bike for now, have a break and think about it. Sometimes stepping away and going back later with a fresh mind helps loads.

I'm not sure if this is anything to do with carbs. At first when you said back and forwards movement I thought maybe cush drive rubbers, suspension linkage maybe. then when you mentioned the wheels feeling like they are not on the ground, I thought what are your tyre conditions like. So unfortunately this is not easy to diagnose unless you are more descriptive as to what your symptoms are.

(:-})
okay.. I was upset for a sec... ok i have new sprockets, chain, etc... shop has tested rims and rotors say rotors are under 5000 something... basically they are straight, and test rode and all said bike ran fine... but when i ride it on freeway, or on street, maybe because i write easier or normal.. newer to riding... when im cruising maybe, but the bike stutters... like when i would be on freeway at 80 it would feel as if it were going back and forth sort of motion or getting pulled somehow.. tires straight, inflated, race gold chain, new sprockets, new ss lines, been to shop they replaced bearing first time said i was lucky to be alive.. i installed carbs and never synced them this last time and didn't replace coolant, so i was going to try syncing carbs tom and replacing coolant and doing oil change as well.. i am trying to figure out this vacuum method or where i can get 1 so i can do it properly.. i was more or less asking tom, since i will have everything off and new fluids... and the bike has over 36,000 miles... if they were anything extra i should be checking as per the maintence manual.. like gaskets, reoil something or reseal something etc etc... also since this the other shop who put on my cct's it has a clacking noise, they say normal, but then said my bike rode fine, which is why i feel unsafe atm from shops being wrong and being told how fried it was and luck to make it to shop blah blah... but testing bike on road today... going down a huge hill at 60mpg.. pulled clutch in, the suspension, steering and everything seemed ok... im also really thinking of getting jamie's rear shock

sorry i hope that helps alot more now that im calm and thinking.
Old 04-14-2013 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Shane702
okay.. I was upset for a sec... ok i have new sprockets, chain, etc... shop has tested rims and rotors say rotors are under 5000 something... basically they are straight, and test rode and all said bike ran fine... but when i ride it on freeway, or on street, maybe because i write easier or normal.. newer to riding... when im cruising maybe, but the bike stutters... like when i would be on freeway at 80 it would feel as if it were going back and forth sort of motion or getting pulled somehow.. tires straight, inflated, race gold chain, new sprockets, new ss lines, been to shop they replaced bearing first time said i was lucky to be alive.. i installed carbs and never synced them this last time and didn't replace coolant, so i was going to try syncing carbs tom and replacing coolant and doing oil change as well.. i am trying to figure out this vacuum method or where i can get 1 so i can do it properly.. i was more or less asking tom, since i will have everything off and new fluids... and the bike has over 36,000 miles... if they were anything extra i should be checking as per the maintence manual.. like gaskets, reoil something or reseal something etc etc... also since this the other shop who put on my cct's it has a clacking noise, they say normal, but then said my bike rode fine, which is why i feel unsafe atm from shops being wrong and being told how fried it was and luck to make it to shop blah blah... but testing bike on road today... going down a huge hill at 60mpg.. pulled clutch in, the suspension, steering and everything seemed ok... im also really thinking of getting jamie's rear shock

sorry i hope that helps alot more now that im calm and thinking.
Ok, just a small tip... When you start a new thought, stick a blank line inbetween... Reading a solid block of text like that is like listening to someone talk forever without breating inbetween... It gives me a headache, and makes it hard to understand what you are saying... A blank line every now and again is huge help...

First question... What RPM's are you running at? You should at all times be "cruising" at around 4000 RPM or above... Anything lower than 3500 and the bike will most definetly hiccup along, telling you to get your *** moving, as it dislikes that low RPM's...

Second question... You are asking us what you should check "as per the service manual"... Did you read the service manual? There is a list of things to actually check... Following that isn't very hard... If you already have new fluids for brake and clutch, new sprockets and chain, and the tires are in good nick, you have the basic maintainance done...

As for the CCT's... I really and honestly doubt its the CCT's making a clacking noise... If they did, you would have blown up your engine a long time ago... Usually, when the CCT's starts making a noise, you haven't got X miles until the engine blows, you have x feet until it goes boom... More likely what you are hearing is the carb slides... That can be heard very clearly going clacketi-clacketi on idle, and a fair bit up through the revs, only to be drowned out the by the engine roar at higher RPM's... And yes, that's entirely normal... It's a pair of big honking carbs on this bike, so they make a fair racket...

Best way to determine what is making a noise, is to take a newspaper, and roll it up in a tight tube, and using it to listen to the various places... That way you are listening to that part alone, not the general racket...

As for a the vaccum gauages, ebay, like I linked above is one place... Any decent place to buy car/engine parts and specific car/engine tools should have them as well, but at a huge mark-up usually... Sync and setup of the carbs makes a huge difference, but with what you have described as of yet, I really and honestly doubt that will make a huge difference for you...

Since you say the bike is "weaving" back and forth on the freeway, getting it up on a steering stem stand, and loosening the bolts on the fork, shaking it, and re-tightening is a good way to make sure it's not sitting crooked... Also a possible issue is the steering stem bearing that usually takes a beating if the PO used to wheelie a lot... But that takes a little know-how and tools you might lack to accomplish it (It's described in the service manual, if you want to read up on it, and see if you want to tackle it)...
Old 04-14-2013 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety
Ok, just a small tip... When you start a new thought, stick a blank line inbetween... Reading a solid block of text like that is like listening to someone talk forever without breating inbetween... It gives me a headache, and makes it hard to understand what you are saying... A blank line every now and again is huge help...

First question... What RPM's are you running at? You should at all times be "cruising" at around 4000 RPM or above... Anything lower than 3500 and the bike will most definetly hiccup along, telling you to get your *** moving, as it dislikes that low RPM's...

Second question... You are asking us what you should check "as per the service manual"... Did you read the service manual? There is a list of things to actually check... Following that isn't very hard... If you already have new fluids for brake and clutch, new sprockets and chain, and the tires are in good nick, you have the basic maintainance done...

As for the CCT's... I really and honestly doubt its the CCT's making a clacking noise... If they did, you would have blown up your engine a long time ago... Usually, when the CCT's starts making a noise, you haven't got X miles until the engine blows, you have x feet until it goes boom... More likely what you are hearing is the carb slides... That can be heard very clearly going clacketi-clacketi on idle, and a fair bit up through the revs, only to be drowned out the by the engine roar at higher RPM's... And yes, that's entirely normal... It's a pair of big honking carbs on this bike, so they make a fair racket...

Best way to determine what is making a noise, is to take a newspaper, and roll it up in a tight tube, and using it to listen to the various places... That way you are listening to that part alone, not the general racket...

As for a the vaccum gauages, ebay, like I linked above is one place... Any decent place to buy car/engine parts and specific car/engine tools should have them as well, but at a huge mark-up usually... Sync and setup of the carbs makes a huge difference, but with what you have described as of yet, I really and honestly doubt that will make a huge difference for you...

Since you say the bike is "weaving" back and forth on the freeway, getting it up on a steering stem stand, and loosening the bolts on the fork, shaking it, and re-tightening is a good way to make sure it's not sitting crooked... Also a possible issue is the steering stem bearing that usually takes a beating if the PO used to wheelie a lot... But that takes a little know-how and tools you might lack to accomplish it (It's described in the service manual, if you want to read up on it, and see if you want to tackle it)...
What he said, but to add, and no offence intended..

Highly suggest you find a knowledgeable local rider to help you with your concerns... understanding what is normal motorcycle behavior on the road, at slow speeds, low RPM, work on some common terms and verbiage so we can better help you in this 2 dimensional internet world, where all we have to go on, is the words you type. And reading what you type is not helping us help you.
Old 04-14-2013 | 10:33 AM
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The way you describe it now does sound a bit like a lean surge. But as you followed the carb thread it shouldn't be far off. How does the rev needle behave when you blip the throttle, does it fluctuate at all or hang before dropping down to idle speed. How many turns out are you on the fuel screws. You may want to try richening them up by a 1/4 to 1/2 turn out and see if this improves things.

I would also check that you have the vacuum connected back in the right place as well as you have had carbs in and out. It goes on the outlet to the side and towards the rear of the diaphram and not on the bottom. This is a common error and is simple to check just to rule it out.

(:-})
Old 04-14-2013 | 10:36 AM
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Sounds to me like he's describing a possible surging, when he says "bike is getting pulled back and forth" that means he's saying the bike is possibly losing forward momentum like it's fuel starved, then all of a sudden it comes back to life and feels like it's getting "pulled forward" when it gets on the gas again, only to bog and slow down once more...

Sound about right Shane? If so, that is why he keeps bringing up carburetor issues as the cause...

Merely my $0.02 centavos. Good luck, Shane. These guys can help if you can manage to wrangle in your thoughts, one problem at a time!
Old 04-14-2013 | 11:35 AM
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How do your carb boots look? Are they cracked and worn? Do they look like they're sealing well? The boots are the two big rubber rings that attache the carbs to the motor. If there are leaks in those they can cause a lot of weird things to be happening.

I agree most with people suggesting finding someone else who can look at it with you, particularly a VTR owner. You may only have one problem or may have a few, it's hard to tell at this point...
Old 04-14-2013 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by supermarto
Sounds to me like he's describing a possible surging, when he says "bike is getting pulled back and forth" that means he's saying the bike is possibly losing forward momentum like it's fuel starved, then all of a sudden it comes back to life and feels like it's getting "pulled forward" when it gets on the gas again, only to bog and slow down once more...

Sound about right Shane? If so, that is why he keeps bringing up carburetor issues as the cause...

Merely my $0.02 centavos. Good luck, Shane. These guys can help if you can manage to wrangle in your thoughts, one problem at a time!
yes 100% this is what I believe is happening.. i did the fuel mixture screws at hawks "starting point" but I do not have a vacuum gauge I am going to get one today and try
Old 04-14-2013 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 7moore7
How do your carb boots look? Are they cracked and worn? Do they look like they're sealing well? The boots are the two big rubber rings that attache the carbs to the motor. If there are leaks in those they can cause a lot of weird things to be happening.

I agree most with people suggesting finding someone else who can look at it with you, particularly a VTR owner. You may only have one problem or may have a few, it's hard to tell at this point...
well.. they are to the point where the little "****" that shows you where to seat the bracket are worn off, and look old and beaten up, maybe I can try getting a new set of those while im at it?
Old 04-14-2013 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Tweety
Ok, just a small tip... When you start a new thought, stick a blank line inbetween... Reading a solid block of text like that is like listening to someone talk forever without breating inbetween... It gives me a headache, and makes it hard to understand what you are saying... A blank line every now and again is huge help...

First question... What RPM's are you running at? You should at all times be "cruising" at around 4000 RPM or above... Anything lower than 3500 and the bike will most definetly hiccup along, telling you to get your *** moving, as it dislikes that low RPM's...

Second question... You are asking us what you should check "as per the service manual"... Did you read the service manual? There is a list of things to actually check... Following that isn't very hard... If you already have new fluids for brake and clutch, new sprockets and chain, and the tires are in good nick, you have the basic maintainance done...

As for the CCT's... I really and honestly doubt its the CCT's making a clacking noise... If they did, you would have blown up your engine a long time ago... Usually, when the CCT's starts making a noise, you haven't got X miles until the engine blows, you have x feet until it goes boom... More likely what you are hearing is the carb slides... That can be heard very clearly going clacketi-clacketi on idle, and a fair bit up through the revs, only to be drowned out the by the engine roar at higher RPM's... And yes, that's entirely normal... It's a pair of big honking carbs on this bike, so they make a fair racket...

Best way to determine what is making a noise, is to take a newspaper, and roll it up in a tight tube, and using it to listen to the various places... That way you are listening to that part alone, not the general racket...

As for a the vaccum gauages, ebay, like I linked above is one place... Any decent place to buy car/engine parts and specific car/engine tools should have them as well, but at a huge mark-up usually... Sync and setup of the carbs makes a huge difference, but with what you have described as of yet, I really and honestly doubt that will make a huge difference for you...

Since you say the bike is "weaving" back and forth on the freeway, getting it up on a steering stem stand, and loosening the bolts on the fork, shaking it, and re-tightening is a good way to make sure it's not sitting crooked... Also a possible issue is the steering stem bearing that usually takes a beating if the PO used to wheelie a lot... But that takes a little know-how and tools you might lack to accomplish it (It's described in the service manual, if you want to read up on it, and see if you want to tackle it)...
1) i shift around 5-6k normally and stay above 3500, i found that out first week owning vtr and reading this forums

2) yes i have read it many times to solve problems, pair removal all the mods etc.. im really asking " should i be taking apart stuff and putting new orings and regreasing stuff when I dont know if its ok or not? like somtimes for instantce ( these bikes are known for their so and so seals wearing at 20k miles, definately check those)

new question, when they did my valving and front forks, they put .90 race tech springs, they set my valve to half street half racing they said, i got front ball bearing from reading somewhere here also.. still have original rear suspension on bike.. could that on streets have anything to do with it?
Old 04-14-2013 | 01:46 PM
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https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=26916

I use this to balance carbs, if you can't wait for mail order and you're strapped for cash.
Old 04-14-2013 | 05:27 PM
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wow, that is hard to read.

First thing is to define for everyone - is this a drive issue or a chassis issue. That should be simple and will help us help you.
One is forward motion and maybe bucking and surging.
One is back and forth- side to side, unstable, wiggly, loose, etc.
One is very dangerous and one is just a pain in the *** that you will eventually get solved.

You need to clarify that for us
Old 04-15-2013 | 07:17 AM
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Bucking or surging can come from lean or rich, this being from personal experience with my own Superhawk. Since switching to the Dr. Honda velocity stacks and moving to a slightly higher elevation, I've noticed a rich stumble, but only around 2-3k rpm. At higher rpm it's okay. I need to lower my needles one notch. How do I know it's rich? Well, the choke is actually a GREAT tuning tool. Try this: When you're riding and you have that forward-backward feeling you're describing, pull the choke out just slightly. If it gets worse, you're rich. If the feeling goes away, you're lean. FWIW, I think you're running rich. The reason I say this is because I can see no performance mods in your signature - no aftermarket exhaust or air filter, AND you're running #48 pilots, AND you've shimmed the needles. Your elevation in LV is almost a 1/2 mile, and with stock cans and filter and the carb tuning you've done that is the most likely result. Pulling the plugs will be an indication on this one too. Sooty and black and you're rich. Excessive buildup of carbon deposits on the exhaust outlets also points to a rich condition.

So, try the choke thing and let us know how it goes.
Old 04-15-2013 | 09:52 AM
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Wow, what a wirlwind of a thread. I have a headache and only read the first 40 lines of each post.

From what I read, stop buying carbs. Also decide how much work you want to do yourself. If you do a search on the topics and spend an hour or 2 a night reading up on it you will form better questions.

Just trying to help you focus your attention. If you change 20 things then ask whats wrong, its too many variable and no one will know where you went wrong.

Have you drained your gas tank and filled it with know good gas? How do you know that you are running on good fuel? That alone could cause every issue you listed.

(except the bearings, but thats not a hard job)
Old 04-15-2013 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Just trying to help you focus your attention. If you change 20 things then ask whats wrong, its too many variable and no one will know where you went wrong.
Big +1 there.

Also, carb sync is important, but does not cause major problems usually. Don't go spending a lot of money on a sync tool as it is probably not a large factor. You can get a good sync with the tool that Supermarto posted a link to.
Old 04-16-2013 | 10:28 PM
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If your going to spend $100 on a sync tool you might want to think about making your own sync tool. It is incredibly easy and I did it for like $10 at home depot. There's only a few things you need.

1. Piece of flat wood about 4 feet tall and 3-4 feet wide.
2. Some kind of tubing. Any tubing will work. Not sure what size the tubing is that comes off the carbs for the superhawk. Similar size tubing is ideal. Home depot / lowes has stuff like this really cheap. Get like 20-25 ft of it.
3. Some metal barbs that will fit into your tubing. This is to connect the tubing you bought to the tubes that come off your bike for the sync.
4. Engine oil. I used some extra motorcycle oil I had left over. You don't need much. Water will work too but it isn't as good because its thinner.
5. Zipties. Like 8 of them.

Basically you will cut the fish tank hose in half. Loop both pieces so you have two lines of hose that look like two U's. Then place the hose on the wooden board and drill holes next to the fish tank hose near the bottom and the top. Loop your twisty ties through the board and around the hose so it stays in place. Then attach the barbs to the ends of the tubing and fill them about 1/2 the way up with oil. Suck on one end until the oil levels are even. Then attach it to your sync hoses on your carbs.


When your done it should look some thing like this. I made this in about 30 minutes


Last edited by Chrisguilday; 04-16-2013 at 11:11 PM.
Old 04-16-2013 | 10:41 PM
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Chris, that's good... that's actually what the link that supermarto pointed out leads to... with the V-twin you only need to sync two carbs (instead of four) as well so only need half of what you made there
Old 04-16-2013 | 11:03 PM
  #24  
Chrisguilday's Avatar
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Chrisguilday is on a distinguished road
Haha forgot the superhawk only has two cylinders / carbs. I just joined this forum because I might be buying one. I used this on a yamaha yzf600r. Worked really well. Didn't see supermarto's link either haha, my bad. The one he linked to looks a lot more professional.

*EDIT* By the way, I probably won't be buying that superhawk I made a thread about. Too bad, this forum looks to be pretty active. Was hoping to join the community.

Last edited by Chrisguilday; 04-16-2013 at 11:09 PM.
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