Did you sync the carbs and adjust mixture screws to 2 - 2.5 turns out? That will probably cure your backfire through the carb.

Also, are the pads fully bedded in? You know the EBCs work best when they have a little heat in them as well. Give them some time. They will probably come around once bedded in. If not, clean your calipers. One caliper at a time, remove pads, squeeze brake lever to push pistons out some. Clean with lots of brake cleaner and a soft toothbrush. Push pistons back in. Install pads on the same sides they came out. Install caliper. Repeat other side.

 

i don't think with the 6-pots you can clean them like that.... I think... I'll have to check. im thinking they might be a lil dirty. I don't have too many miles on them either. did 100 hard hard hard miles today... so hopefully that'll help. main thing is the lever feel just is inconsistent at times... doesn't feel like the other bikes in the group (honda 1000rr, 600rr, brand new gixxer 600) i did 2.5 turns. I'm thinking im just way rich now and will have to do a filter to get it smoothed back out

 

What's with all the brake problems lately? Be patient do everything Hawkrider said and it won't hurt to make sure ther's no air in the system. Check a few of the other brake posts for different bleeding methods.

 

You can do it just be carefull not to blow the piston all the way out.

 

they stop and slow me down but they just don't feel "right" really hard to explain feels like they're dragging way more then they should and it's inconsistent with the lever feel

 

Are they the racing pads? If so they really don't work right unless they are hot. If not it does sound like it may just need to be bedded to the rotors. If it was air it will usually be consistent one way or the other.

 

AHA! I think I know what it might be. The way you explained it the second time clued me in. I've had this happen on other bikes I worked on. This is going to sound wierd, but try this - it'll only take 5 minutes: Remove the brake lever and thoroughly clean and lubricate it with white lithium grease. Go ride.

 

ill try that this week.

 

Sticking? Hmm I supose that could be possible. Has this happened a lot?

 

You never know the history of the lever. If it was wrecked and got dirt in it or if it sat outside for a long time and was never lubed then....who knows. All depends on preventive maintenance.

I had a CBR600F4 I worked on that dragged the brakes because the lever wouldn't return all the way. Reason: Dirty old grease at the lever pivot. The feel on that lever was so bad I couldn't understand how the owner hadn't wrecked yet.

Hell, I had one dude on a 02 GSXR600 complain of a sticking lever and strange lever feel at the track. The lever didn't want to return. Turns out the Einstein used DOT5 fluid which swelled all his seals. The spring in the master cylinder didn't have enough power to overcome the additional drag from that. The original seals were designed for DOT 3/4 on only that. No recovering from that except to go through the whole brake system and replace ALL the seals.

 

Makes sense, I guess I just take better care of my brakes then some.

 

what can be used to clean out dot 5 from lines? Im one of the bright guys that switched without realizing it wasn't a good idea... my friend runs dot 5 on his gixxer1000 brakes though - that could possible be my problem... probably have to get new lines for the clutch and rear brake and my fronts should be able to be cleaned since they're SS

 

Aha!! You're still using those lines? If they're contaminated I don't think I would use them. Don't you have some others already? Swap them out.

 

i have SS lines for the front. it shouldn't swell those but it's definetely possible that it messed up my front MC. I made the mistake of switching awhile back and was told going back to dot 4 was even worse... could it require me buying new SS lines for all 3 (clutch, front and rear) and getting a rebuild kit for all 3 and cleaning them all thorougly to get the silicone residue off? Cause metal parts can be cleaned of it but any cleaner against rubber is the devil basically from what I remember. That mean I possibly need a rebuild kit for the front calipers as well?

 

Swelling could happen on the inside like a cheesburger to your arteries the inside is still rubber. Did you do it to all of the lines? I thought you put a different master on it from the swap?

 

yeah but I still had the same lines. didn't think there was any way to clean them out...? well ok back to square 1... way to fix it is to have to buy rebuild kit for MCs, new lines, and possibly calipers too?

 

Check the other things first but it is possible.

 

well I don't like the dot 5 anyways... dot 4 was cheaper too... I know the rear and clutch say dot 4 only but I was a tard and changed it anyways... :-\ fronts there's no indication...

 

DUH!! Good luck man.

 

well clutch and rear seems to still be ok. fronts are the ones giving me issues... I'm hoping hawkrider will chime in and give me some insight as to what I can do...

 

The only thing I could think of would be flushing everything out and maybe use some rubber safe brake cleaner. Nothing that will leave a residue though.

 

hmm... this might suck quite a bit but I don't really have a choice do I? I really want to switch back... the dot 5 has ruined my mity vac too.... so something is gonna have to be done. rebuild kits can't be that bad can they?? gotta find out which my MC really is... not sure what it is...

 

Okay, I gather that you have switched to DOT5 and would like to go back to DOT3/4. If it hasn't been in there too long then the seals might not have swelled too much and minimal damage will have been done. The right answer is that you need to do is flush the entire system with denatured alcohol. Personally, I would just buy 2 big cans of brake cleaner and take the whole system apart. There's a chance that if you didn't flush all the DOT3 out when you switched to DOT5, then the two have coagulated and this is causing your wierd braking. I'd still make sure the lever pivot is fresh as well.

If you want to switch out all the seals it's up to you, but I think you may be okay if you switch back to DOT3/4 soon.