Exhaust leak
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 677
From: Rancho Cordova, California
Exhaust leak
So, I did some work on the bike and now I'm struggling to get a good seal/clamp between the midpipe and header. When I put it back together, it just will not clamp on. If the mounting bolt at the rearset isn't tight, the thing pulls right off. Anybody dealt with this?
#2
From your OEM header, is your linkpipe and can standard or aftermarket?
If standard then you need a functioning seal (part no. 6) 18392-MG7-750 and clamps to hold it all together (I use mikalor SS marine exhaust clamps)
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>MUFFLER
If standard then you need a functioning seal (part no. 6) 18392-MG7-750 and clamps to hold it all together (I use mikalor SS marine exhaust clamps)
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>MUFFLER
Last edited by Wicky; 04-01-2011 at 11:17 AM.
#4
From your OEM header, is your linkpipe and can standard or aftermarket?
If standard then you need a functioning seal (part no. 6) 18392-MG7-750 and clamps to hold it all together (I use mikalor SS marine exhaust clamps)
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>MUFFLER
If standard then you need a functioning seal (part no. 6) 18392-MG7-750 and clamps to hold it all together (I use mikalor SS marine exhaust clamps)
Ronayers.com Microfiche Honda>Motorcycle>1999>VTR1000F>MUFFLER
#5
I had a hell of a time finding these seals in stock anywhere in my area so I ordered them... waited a week and a half for them to arrive... and then when they did arrive, I quickly destroyed both trying to get them on the bike (they are a pretty tight fit and rather delicate). I ended up using the Permatex copper silicone (high temp silicone). Not as good, but it works for the most part. When the back pressure blows out the silicone, I just squirt more in there.
I know, terrible fix... but if you really get frustrated, it got me back on the bike for a while.
I know, terrible fix... but if you really get frustrated, it got me back on the bike for a while.
#7
I had the same trouble you did. I bent back the tabs a bit and placed the gasket on the pipe end. I raised the headers with a hydraulic jack into position then used the jack to push the pipes in. Then I used the clamp to seal everything. Works like a charm... for now at least. Also I put grease on the outside of the gasket and the inside of the header side. This helped and burnt off.
Last edited by geekonamotorcycle; 04-23-2011 at 05:38 PM.
#9
I'm having this problem again. My last fix lasted for about 6 months. I tried just stuffing the gasket back in there and holding it in place with copper silicone, but that only lasted a couple months. I went for my first "spirited" ride of the season last week, and blew the gasket loose. Now the bike's backfiring on decel and on initial throttle opening after decel, just like it used to. And I smell like gas when I get to work because the exhaust is blowing on my *** the whole commute.
Has anyone figured out a way to keep this from happening over and over and over . . .?
I've thought about twisting aluminum foil into a ring and gently driving it into the gap. Then adding silicone, then maybe another ring of foil, and more silicone. Has anyone tried making their own #6 gasket?
Has anyone figured out a way to keep this from happening over and over and over . . .?
I've thought about twisting aluminum foil into a ring and gently driving it into the gap. Then adding silicone, then maybe another ring of foil, and more silicone. Has anyone tried making their own #6 gasket?
#11
They are Jardine High Mounts, stock headers otherwise. My leak is where the rear cylinder downpipe meets with the front header by the rear shock, so it's all stock parts involved in that joint. I already ordered new #6 gaskets, but I feel kinda stupid just doing the same thing over and over again, since it's not working very well.
I'm wondering if my pipes are slightly bent. They don't look bent, but that connection is not tight. It keeps wanting to pull apart slightly, creating enough of a gap for the gasket to slip loose over time.
I'm wondering if my pipes are slightly bent. They don't look bent, but that connection is not tight. It keeps wanting to pull apart slightly, creating enough of a gap for the gasket to slip loose over time.
#12
I was asking because way back there was a bit of an issue with the Two Brothers systems doing the same type of thing, the pipe being just a touch too big and blowing out the exhaust gasket. The fix was to use a slightly thicker exhaust gasket.
The P\N is 18392-MJ4-670 for the one that cured the problem. I don't know if it will fix your issue but it might.
The P\N is 18392-MJ4-670 for the one that cured the problem. I don't know if it will fix your issue but it might.
#13
I think I figured out the problem on my bike (and maybe on ranchomice??). I've never had the copper crush ring gaskets in either the front or rear header. I never had a leak there, so didn't worry about buying and adding them since I had a good seal. But I just added those copper rings last night, and adding them realigned the pipes just enough so that now the other connections fit perfectly. So make sure you have good copper rings installed if you're having fitment issues . . .
Also, I'd bought two of those "foil" gaskets from bike bandit over the last year, and they both arrived to me in poor condition. At the time, I thought that's just what they looked like, so didn't know any better. But the ones I bought from Ron Ayers just now arrived in perfect condition (no cracking or fraying). That made installing them much easier since they weren't falling apart before I even touched them. They basically slid right on, and I was able to get a tight seal without destroying them.
I used the jack method that geekonamotorcycle described above to raise the main pipe onto the downpipe, and hold it there while I clamped everything down. That helped a lot, but just be careful not to over-jack it and drop the bike.
Also, I'd bought two of those "foil" gaskets from bike bandit over the last year, and they both arrived to me in poor condition. At the time, I thought that's just what they looked like, so didn't know any better. But the ones I bought from Ron Ayers just now arrived in perfect condition (no cracking or fraying). That made installing them much easier since they weren't falling apart before I even touched them. They basically slid right on, and I was able to get a tight seal without destroying them.
I used the jack method that geekonamotorcycle described above to raise the main pipe onto the downpipe, and hold it there while I clamped everything down. That helped a lot, but just be careful not to over-jack it and drop the bike.
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