Enough Already!
02-06-2013 | 05:14 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 273
From: Pompano Beach, Fl.
Enough Already!
I can't stand the weak breakable plastic choke cable guide holders and so spent the $40 for metal Polaris standins that won't break. Right now I've plugged the rear carb choke circuit orifice with a 10mm cap screw but bike likes a choke on both cylinders to start.
New guides are slightly modified to accept the cable but will work nicely and won't break.
Next pic is a BMC race filter with a K&N on top and it works well but I did put the air dam on as the stock filter has.
New guides are slightly modified to accept the cable but will work nicely and won't break.
Next pic is a BMC race filter with a K&N on top and it works well but I did put the air dam on as the stock filter has.
02-06-2013 | 05:20 PM
#2
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MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
Still not sold on the brass fitting mod. I've had mine off more times than I can count with no issues or breakage.
My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.
So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.
So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
02-06-2013 | 05:33 PM
#3
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Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 273
From: Pompano Beach, Fl.
Break
Still not sold on the brass fitting mod. I've had mine off more times than I can count with no issues or breakage.
My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.
So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.
So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
02-06-2013 | 05:41 PM
#4
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MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
Still not sold on the brass fitting mod. I've had mine off more times than I can count with no issues or breakage.
My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.
So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
My concern would be that if you do whatever you did to break the plastic fitting with the metal one, instead of breaking a plastic bit you will or could damage the carb body and that is a bit more $$ to replace.
So run them if you like but exercise a bit of caution when installing them.
..
I bet you get 98 MPG and have over 163 HP to the rear wheel as well
The plastic fitting is a known weak spot, there is over 10mm of threaded engagement of the brass fitting into the carb.. .. You would have to literally yank with both hands on the carb and cables attached to do any harm.
Of course, yes, use some common sense
.. the weak link went from a crappy plastic fitting that was under-designed, to a brass fitting / aluminum boss on the carb which will get pricey if your ham fisted enough to screw that up.
02-06-2013 | 05:53 PM
#5
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 397
From: UK
here's what broke the one. I was putting the stock slide springs back in but didn't take the carbs out; just left the choke cables in place and finagled the set til I could get the front slide cap off.
I've got brass ones on mine, but if I'm removing the carbs I don't take the cables off, and just loosen of at the frame and feed the cables through and lift out still attached to the carbs. Simples!!!
(:-})
02-06-2013 | 06:35 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 273
From: Pompano Beach, Fl.
How?
9 X out of 10 when I hear someone has broken the plastic nut the carbs have not been removed. I don't think it helps that the cables are under slightly more tension/stress when still attached to the bike. Especially if they are not loosened off at the frame/choke ****. And then that thread is so fine that it can be finicky to get them screwed back on straight.
I've got brass ones on mine, but if I'm removing the carbs I don't take the cables off, and just loosen of at the frame and feed the cables through and lift out still attached to the carbs. Simples!!!
(:-})
I've got brass ones on mine, but if I'm removing the carbs I don't take the cables off, and just loosen of at the frame and feed the cables through and lift out still attached to the carbs. Simples!!!
(:-})
02-06-2013 | 07:01 PM
#7
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 397
From: UK
I leave the frame mount on the bike and loosen of the choke by unscrewing the nut behind to reveal the thread then it slides sideways out the mount. It then passes through the coolant hoses with a bit of a push. Reversal is the opposite, just push it back through the hoses before re-attching the carbs
(:-})
(:-})
Last edited by cybercarl; 02-06-2013 at 07:08 PM.
02-06-2013 | 09:29 PM
#8
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MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
On mine alone I would say the number is between 50-100 and I still have the original fittings on my bike.
So actually I have no idea why there is so much of a problem with them.
02-06-2013 | 09:45 PM
#9
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MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
OK,. well that explains it then.... 
I've broken two in 9 years, done when I lifted the carb to get my big hands under to remove the fitting.
Yes removing the bracket and control **** can allow for more slack... but then you have the small sheet metal screw into the aluminum frame to deal with each time.
I've broken two in 9 years, done when I lifted the carb to get my big hands under to remove the fitting.
Yes removing the bracket and control **** can allow for more slack... but then you have the small sheet metal screw into the aluminum frame to deal with each time.
02-06-2013 | 09:49 PM
#10
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MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,053
From: NYC
Wait, what? $40 for polaris brass ones? You musta went to a polaris dealer in your benzo and they had to "special order" it right? Thats steep.
I agree they are just waiting to break, and forget about if you work on them under 50*F. I did the polaris switch but also do the cybereyeballcarl trick of removing the whole cable assembly.
I agree they are just waiting to break, and forget about if you work on them under 50*F. I did the polaris switch but also do the cybereyeballcarl trick of removing the whole cable assembly.
Last edited by smokinjoe73; 02-06-2013 at 10:51 PM.
02-06-2013 | 10:27 PM
#11
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MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
Retail is like $14, better pricing from several places is $8.77
$40 for two, even with shipping is criminal
Well unless it includes the MOD's required and a second shipping to the end user
02-07-2013 | 07:18 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 273
From: Pompano Beach, Fl.
Price
Online I found them for $8 each plus $16 to ship so ---------sometimes I just have to take in the neck
They'd be easy enough to make out of the right stock, like a 10mm bolt using a drill press and other power tools and if I had a lathe I *would* have done it but I'm happy doing it this way and in the end, happy counts.
02-07-2013 | 07:31 AM
#13
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 273
From: Pompano Beach, Fl.
Wait, what? $40 for polaris brass ones? You musta went to a polaris dealer in your benzo and they had to "special order" it right? Thats steep.
I agree they are just waiting to break, and forget about if you work on them under 50*F. I did the polaris switch but also do the cybereyeballcarl trick of removing the whole cable assembly.
I agree they are just waiting to break, and forget about if you work on them under 50*F. I did the polaris switch but also do the cybereyeballcarl trick of removing the whole cable assembly.
03-16-2013 | 04:10 PM
#15
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SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,707
From: Essex, UK
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