Shitty. Guess Saturday is gonna be a great track day lol

 

check this out , esp what EBC says about oil.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-05...item230663ec68

 

interesting

 

i have used rotella 15w-40 in 2-stroke race(enduro) bike gear boxes for years. it work very well on clutches under extreme abuse. it works well on bearings and gears as i have split cases many times for main bearing replacement.(not lubricated by motor oil).\

i am pleased to see that shell has gotten the jaso ma rating..
i am going to give the t-6 synthetic a go in my new to me SH.

i ran gtx, Mobil 1, and motul in my old cbr600r. i have run rotella 15w-40 and mobil 1 15w-50 in my bmw airhead with great results, oil stays cleaner longer and valve are not as noisy, along with better oil consumption. not having to add any till over 3k. (both airheads have over 100k on origional motors)my g/s has been almost around the world.

my first car ,a honda accord, called for 15w-40 to 20w-50 motor oil in the gear box with a service interval of 30k-60k miles.

all this to say. motor oil will do gear boxs and obviously motors, and "car/truck" oils that will not cause clutch slipping. are fine for your bike, even with out a picture of a motorcycle on the front.

i find the best "car/truck" oil for a bikes is diesel oil. low to no friction modifiers, clutch :check. contain ample amounts of zink and phosphorous(zddp) for extra/extreme protection. all in an inexpensive package due to large amount of world consumption(i.e diesels) supply and demand.....

cheers

 

well hello there r80! welcome to the forum.

I consulted with oil techs from mobil when i was hauling it a couple decades back and they told me that I could blend synthetic and organic for the best of both worlds, i.e., the lubricity of the synthetics and the organics for holding dirt in suspension better.

Consequently, I started doing this in my Cummins and now in every motor I service, from cars and bikes to snowblowers and mowers. Presently i've been blending T-6 and delvac to a ratio of 1 to 4.

I don't tear a lot of engines apart, but did my Cummins twice between 5-600,000 just for precaution and really didn't find significant wear. The funny thing is that I never changed oil per se, just drained 2 gallons a week(3000mi) and dumped in my diesel fuel. Changed filter at 12,000miles and ran temps of 220-240+deg F and occasionally spikes to 260+ and never had any adverse side effects.

 

what is the take on accell 10w-40 SF oil from warren?? it says SE and SF rated oil... it is 2.14 a QT??

 

Don't do it!
I have decided in a moment of cheapness to use auto grade oil in my VTR with bad results. On first day after a spirited launch from a stop my clutch slipped really bad and smelled like burnt oil.
Now I have to replace the clutch - sucks! First time this has happened to me in 24 years - and this is the first time I used auto grade oil - coincidence, I think not.

Like others posted, I should have looked two isles down at AutoZone and find the 4-stroke motorcycle grade oil for about the same price.

Doh!

 

Dunno if its been mentioned yet, but canola oil is best

 

i beg to differ. Coconut oil will be lubricating long after canola loses it's viscosity, largely because of its ability to handle high engine temps.

 

Yep! That's true Y'all!
I never ask, I just comment

Now Carry On,
Gunny

Oh, and watch my knife throwing video!

 

------------

Seen and ditto.
Done so for 35 years, never burned up anything! (except a few M-60 barrels!)

Carry on,
Gunny

 

You probably used an oil with the "energy conservation" label. I have been using car oil in my bikes for years, and never had a problem. You can use car oil in a moto, you just have to use the right kind.

Stay away from oils that have this label on them. These types of oil have friction modifiers in them that will destroy your clutch.