Seriously, I don't have a hard-on for ya'.

I just think it's funny that peeps come on and say "it's the best" with no supporting evidence and then see it's just another MLM scam.
The chicks?
1st one:5150 wanted chicks.
They're old enough for me to find them pleasant. Would not ask anything of them in RL.
Second one: young chicks giving the finger - what's not to think it's funny?? too young to think anything else. If you're prurient or a prude, don't look.

On a different tack; Do you deny any of it?

 

Dude, where do you get GN4 for $20/gallon in socal? lol... do share

 

im sure this has been discussed but ill ask anyway. i talked to a mechanic who said that a full synthetic was actually worse for the clutch than a semi or non synthetic oil. thoughts on that? he said full synthetic would cause it to slip more or something like that.

 

Get a motorcycle specific synthetic and you should have no problems with your clutch...

 

There's a whole discussion and probably several on oil. I stay away from car oils. I use Mobil Delvac or Shell Rotella T truck oil self blended with Mobil Motorcycle oil to the ratio of one to three.

 

Mission Motorsports in Irvine, $19.99/gallon. I just bought 2 gallons a couple of months ago.

 

I just started a Motul regimen with my bike, I'm running the full synthetic 7100 10w40. I couldn't believe how much smoother it ran and shifted when I switched to Motul....I am sold...I ordered a case of 4 gallons, got a good deal came to around $10/qt including shipping across the country.

I used to work for the east coast master distributor for Automotive Motul. After seeing what Motul can do I am sold...We had a Honda CRX on the dyno that gained 6whp just by changing the oil to Motul...

 

ok so im going to take in all of this and say that i can use 1 qt of Mobil one Synthetic and the rest store brand oil as long as it is SC rated and same weight... its not gonna sound like im grinding the gearbox as i take off? cuz i used all orangic last change of 10w-40 (advance auto parts brand) and its been almost 3000 miles now and i can hear that i need to change the oil.

 

you can do whatever, but i wouldn't use auto oil, and, blending the same weight is not necessary. My opinion is not to use auto oil at all, but either all motorcycle specific @5-50w or blend one quart of this with 3quarts of diesel oil (mobil delvac or Rotella 15-40).

I'm not an expert in oil, however I started blending oils long before it ever came out on the shelves based on consultations/recommendations with Mobil techs, oil analysis, running high engine temps(220-260F), rotating oil in lieu of changing, and teardown analysis. The basic idea for blending oils acc to mobil techs was that organics hold dirt in suspension significantly better than synthetics thus allowing superior lubrication and less wear. If you use full synthetic and change often then no problem other than high cost.

 

i know weve seen a few hp in cars on the dyno when we'd switch from regular oil to royal purple.

right now ive got the honda brand oil in my bike, gn4 i think its called. she runs fine. i found when i had full synthetic she used a good bit of it. gonna see if its the same with the honda oil or not. but with the motul i had in there before she shifted really nice while it was still fresh

 

The VTR has like most bikes a wet clutch and the oil runs both engine and transmission... As a result waiting long periods between oilchanges results in annoying shifting, slipping clutch and decreased fuel mileage... Not to mention the bonus wear on the engine parts...

My bike gets ridden hard, no put-put'ing around... So it also gets full synthetic on shortish intervalls... Last time I tore it apart, a mechanic friend that visited commented that it still looked brand new inside... The crosshatch on the cylinder walls are still there... The clutch plates was well within spec and had no visible signs of wear when I swapped them for a higher spec, with harder springs and the bike had at that point done nearly 45k miles... 90% of which at a pace that most normal car engines never get to... I'll keep using bike specific synthetic oil and change at my intervalls despite what others might suggest... I kind of doubt I'll save enough in purchase of oil to make up for the damage I'd do to the engine if it weighted over the other way...

Oh... And mixing oils on your own isn't something I'd recommend... It was probably fine and even a good idea long ago... But now the oil companies mix so much purpose engineered additives into the oils that not even their own engineers will know exactly what effects you get if you mix stuff...

Some of the things might improve oil life or performance in a mix, some might do the same things and be superfluos... But then again, some might not work at all together and decrease oil life and performance... Unless you have several degrees and do a whole lot of testing, you are just guessing and playing roulette with your engine parts...

Just my opinions... But like the say about opinions... Feel free to think otherwise...

 

Unless you ran that engine to the equivalent amount of miles on the new oil before testing, I'd much rather attribute it too the freshness of the oil than anything else... But that's just guessing...

 

I agree that running motorcycle specific oil from reputable companies like Mobil, Castrol, or Motul, coupled with frequent changes, is the smartest, safest route in terms of protecting your engine. However, being neither smart nor safe, I tend to err on the side of calculated risk in the way I live and ride. Lord I apologize for this.

 

Changed the oil and went to the Dyno right away both times. It was in a car that had seen numerous Dyno days so we were able to see gains from the royal purple the few times we tried it out. Regardless it ran a lot smoother.

Here's one for you guys. Synthetic oil change for the winter. Am I safe to change the oil and park the bike and then come spring run on that same synthetic oil or do I need to change it out again?

 

Heh... I wouldn't argue with you on the risk taking, but you got plenty of smarts... I'm not the "safest" person I know either... But I try to limit the amount of variables when I do dumb-*** stuff... So far I have came out alive, so some of it works as intended... You seem to have a similar track record...

 

Seems to me that changing the oil prior to parking it for the winter would be smart. The oil would have fewer contaminents in it.

 

Yeah I do that but I'm wondering if I use synthetic if I can still after the winter or not

 

Ok, that way it's more of a proven fact...

With a few provisions yes, that's a good way... The bike needs to be stored above freezing temperature all through the winter... Preferably somewhat above that, but not neccessary...

The second is even more important... NO PLAYING!... The bike goes nighty night in the fall and then you leave it alone until spring when you go riding... Absolutely no starting it in the winter just to hear it run... Do that once or twice and you can swap the oil in the spring... If you start the bike, the bike needs to get up to full operating temps and stay there for a while before being shut off, otherwise you compromise the oil, and introduce a lot of other things like moisture and other fun...

 

Perfect. So she ll get a synthetic swap over the winter. I know they say regular oil has a shelf life once its in the motor but I heard the synthetic was fine as long as the bike wasn't started. I just wanted to confirm that with someone who knows