Tore into the rear carb tonight just to do some cleaning and found this in the bottom of my diaphraghm.





Now I know the carb set up thread says to plug one of the holes and that if there were three holes found, then that means there was a jet kit done at one point in time.

The rest of these pictures are just me cleaning up the outside. I'm not going to rejet the carbs yet as I think I'm going to buy the Kiyo Watanabe set off his site. I got to get a hold of him first though. Haven't been able to make contact.





What is this thing?

 

I have finished the carb cleaning but I'm on hold until I can get my #48 pilot jets from Boise tomorrow. Meanwhile, I cleaned the ports where the carbs will mount and de-paired the bike. We'll see how it goes. Anything would be better than what I started out with.

 

Well Kiyo is a good guy but a lot of the parts on his site are no longer available. If you do end up getting a HRC kit from him, let me know and I'll tell you how to set it up but you really won't be using very parts out of it.

Also make sure you get a set of stock slide springs if you do get the kit.
Though for a basically stock engine just buying a set of stock needles (they are different from front to rear) some slide springs and a pair of stock jets will give you good results for a lot less $$

 

You know, I just went ahead and did the #48 swap instead of doing the Watanabe parts. I couldn't get a hold of him and I'm trying to get this thing going asap. However, I have located a set of Moriwaki pistons and cams and am in the process of procuring those.

 

So which needles are you running? do they have adjustment clips or are they fixed length?

Aslo it looks like someone plugged lift holes but left the short dynojet slide springs in place, which can give some strange results.

 

I do have an adjustable needle in the diaphragm but I left the retaining ring in the same position it was in I just put a washer underneath it. I set the carbs up exactly like you said to do in your write up.

The pilot jet is a #48 and there was another jet that is set on what looks like a 10mm screw that said 183 on it. To be honest, I'm not entirely sure what that means.

As far as the slide needles, what are your recommendations to help to NOT have those strange results? I just want to ride this season and this winter I'm going to delve into it much deeper.

 

That's the main jets. You want to set those at 175 in the front and 178 in the rear.

 

Well then you really haven't set them up according to the thread I wrote.

In order to actually set them up according to my thread you will need needles, slide springs and main jets.

What you have now is a DynoJet kit. Which is designed to open the slides faster. IMHO this is not the way to go, as i stated in my setup instructions.

So just plugging the extra lift hole (or holes for the front) you will get unknown results with the large main jets and the lite slide springs.

If you actually want to run the setup I wrote, you will need a stock set of main jets (175front, 178 rear unless you are at or above 5000' feet altitude then you run 172\175 mains) a stock set of needles and a pair of stock slide springs.

Otherwise you are experimenting with a unknown set up.

 

Well than that's good to know. Now I know to get a stock set of needles this weekend. No worries everyone, she'll get set up right. I was lead to believe this bike was stock so its good to find out that it's not.

 

Bought some new parts to include but not limited to

2011 Suzuki Hayabusa COMPLETE front end
CNC Machined folding adjustable brake and clutch levers
K&N Air Filter
Dynojet Stage 1 jet kit
Factory Pro Shift Kit
2007 Suzuki Six piston front calipers (Will be selling due to the new front end having them already. Will keep you posted on those as soon as they come)

and lastly an Icon Urban tank bag.

I'll post pictures of everything once they all come in. Expect around the middle of the month of June 2012 to see those.

Just wanted to bump this thread and give everyone an update on the renovation process. Still waiting for 7Moore7 to chime in and get in on this project!

 

I also wanted to ask how these exhausts stack up against all the other ones out there available. What do you guys think?

Carbon GP Exhaust Honda VTR 1000 F Firestorm / Super Hawk VTR1000F EX165 | eBay

 

I got into contact with someone in Australia who will be shipping me some pistons for the bike. Below are his words to me:

OK got the message

I will hold the pistons for you. I sent them to a piston manufacture in Melbourne at Christmas time as I have been working on O/S forged pistons for these engines. I will ring him on Monday and get them shipped back and inspect to make sure all is OK.
I will then work out the price and let you know what the exact cost is including freight and if you are still happy with this I will send you a PayPal invoice.
Once payment is confirmed the goods will be shipped.

I normally ship via Austral Post to the US as it is less expensive than UPS or any of the others but is a little slower. Normally shipping time is 5 to
7 working days once I have delivered to the post office.

Based on what you have told me the option I would recommend is:

1: H/C piston kit. This is a must on these engines to get them to go.
2: Stage 1 cam kit. This way you do not have to do a lot of work in the air box area.
3: A lighter flywheel. Being a twin the crank is quite heave and lightening the flywheel makes a big difference with no disadvantage.
4: Longer velocity stacks on the air box.

This will normally give you a bit over 120HP at the crank, dead smooth idle, a great wheel stand bike, and fast.

I will try to scan a bike magazine test done on the VTR firestorm which I set up a few years ago, they loved it saying this is the bike Honda should
build.

Regards

Bill Finnegan
Hpower
Qld
Australia

Looks like there WILL be a big bore kit built for this bike sooner or later. When he finally gets it developed, I'll be first in line =^_^=

 

I got my Busa forks in today! They are absolutely amazing. I love these things. They are so beefy and they look incredible. The only complaint I have about them is that they were shipped in a box with moving paper wrapped around them. They survived but a little reflector on the side didn't. Doesn't bother me that much though because I was going to take those off anyway.
They have a broken lever on them but I was going to be putting GP style levers on it anyway. I'm debating on keeping them for the cafe project or just getting another set of forks for the hawk. We'll see.




All the switches that are on it, I'd like to be fully 100% functional so I'm going to have to get the busa wiring diagram and the hawk diagram out and match them all up. There are some features on the busa forks that weren't available on the hawk such as the pass switch that I'm not sure if I'll be able to get to work. Again, it's all up in the air. We'll see.

 

It will work, the Euro VTRs had them.... might want to track down a "FireStorm" diagram for the easiest way to hook it up.

 

Ugh! Thank you! I'll be sure to do that. Can't wait to slap these bad boys on!!! I'll be sure to post up pictures of the process and a video of all the switches working when it's all said and done. All I need now for the swap to be complete is the top stem bearing, wheel, and the rotor.

 

I need to sync the carbs on my bike. Anyone know a link to the carb sync tool that would best suit the Vtwin style of this engine?

 

Picked up a few more parts for the resto/mod project.

1. 2006 VFR800 Single Side Swingarm COMPLETE
2. 7 in round headlight with integrated turnsignals
3. A new tank (FLAWLESS)
4. Some miscellaneous parts to make the busa front end swap a piece of cake

I'll post up pics as I get the parts in. Turns out I won't be riding until my project is done. Oh well, I do like working on it occasionally.

 

Just curious, what would cause a float bowl to overfill and then leak profusely? I was thinking of replacing the float needle and the float bowl gasket. Also, I was wondering if there was a way to actually set the float height as the service manual only tells how to check it.