I may not end up using these or may chop/cut/rebuild them if I go with a twin scroll turbo

 

At the Advance Auto by me, they have high temperature engine paint and right next to that, they have high temperature clear coat. So, you have two choices, (1) High temp. clear coat, or (2) high temp. engine paint.

The parts are looking awesome man! I took the time and read the whole "stage" build of your Super Hawk (like 14 pages!). That was a very informative read. If that is any indication to what this Porsche will be, I can't wait to see it finished!

 

Thanks Bro! I found some self etching primer at the parts store, so now just gotta decide on a color. Stay tuned for the results

 

The inner race walks right out with a flat end punch, but the outter is more difficult and requires thermodynamic manipulation. I used a torch to gently heat the hub/housing and that helped, but to make it real easy I then used a cold can of tomato juice to cool the race too. Once cooled the outter race walked right out.

 

slugs installed in holes and holes & tins installed on short block...this is starting to look like a motor!

 

got my hands dirty before work this morning

 

I drooled a bit on my keyboard...wait...(whew) okay, that was drool.

 

here's some more progress pics

 

I wont be needing the 1987 technology distributor so I had a hole to fill in the case...I was lucky and found a nice Italian motorcycle frame plug that fits the 30mm hole nicely

 

Still can't get away from 'dem motorcycles! Although, I bet Ferdinand would be turning in his grave if he knew you used an Italian part...lol

 

I've got 2 iffy head stud holes in the left case that I'm going to repair with Time-serts, so progress is slowed a little. One of the holes wont hold torque even with green sleeve and the other holds with green sleeve, but if I'm gonna fix one I'll fix both while I'm there

 

Does that mean you are testing the torque in an "unscrew" situation to see if it holds at a specific pressure?

 

Nope, means threads pulled out when tried to torque new race studs

These ARP head studs are so hard the cat can't scratch them!!!

 

new tool for installing front brg races and it works great!

 

I finally got everything together I needed to drill & tap the case for time-serts. It took a little while to figure out how to dill & tap with precision w/o using a drill press, but I gotter done so no porcupine case here

 

I'd rather build a motor any day then work on 24 year old front suspension parts, but it's done now so I can get back to the motor

 

Okay, now that the case is fixed I can start building up the cam towers...very impressed with time-serts and would recommend them to save a case any day

 

Very nice, Rick!

Got the wheels turning now...
Not sure what, or how...

 

I'd suggest you look for something to build that's already in pieces cuz that way you know exactly what you're getting and always cheaper that way cuz most folks get intimidated easily

 

Bout how long did it take you to set them? Gotta fork over a good chunk of money for some threads

 

Well, the actual work was about 30 minutes or so for the two holes, but it took days and days to design and manufacture a drill straight jig and find a tap straight jig. Since the cases had been glued up a drill press was outta the question, but I had to have straight holes for the head studs to match up against the drop in jugs.

Then ordering the parts added even more days. I wanted to use 30mm inserts, but the holes just weren't deep enough, so had to reorder 24.5mm inserts...a lot of hurry up and wait.

All said it cost about $150.00 to save a $10K case and I have enough inserts left over for 13 more holes, but glad I don't need them

 

Replaced the old rubber flex hoses with SS lines same as front along with new hard lines to the calipers. Man it's hot in the garage right now!

 

Put a final coat of red paint on the engine shroud and cleaned up and painted the cold air intake pipe.

 

Just had my flywheel, PP & starter ring gear balanced...crank was already balanced.

 

I got my starter & alternator back today from a local shop and they look brand new

 

instead of tossing engine studs with damaged threads I put them it a collet in a vise and took a tap to them...now they are as good as new

 

Here's some pics of the parts needed to refurb & upgrade the ole 930 gear box

 

Needed to clean out some cam tower threads. If you don't have a collet stud holder you may wanna consider chasing down the Snap on van cuz it's one of the best tools I own

 

Collet stud tool? I just use 2 jam nuts butted together to install and remove them. Never thought the tool justified the cost.

 

It's worth it especially if you consider the fact that it will also hold a stud safely while you run a die down the the other side to repair mangled threads on studs that can cost as much as $11 each

Also, inevitably you will come across a situation where the double nuts wont work cuz I did and that's when I bought it. I now have 2 and will buy more as needed cuz he who dies with the most tools wins!