FYI - I am posting this very detailed classified ad for my father. I can answer any of your questions to the best of my ability. Thanks.



2002 BMW R1200C & 2002 Steib TR 500 sidecar combination

Price: $13,500 firm

Location: Asheville, North Carolina

Pictures: http://bmrdad.smugmug.com/gallery/15...85814525_X6B92

This is a unique combination and requires a discerning buyer. The Steib TR500 is a rare and hard-to-find model, and its connection to the Uber German retro-styled BMW Cruiser makes this hack a one-of-a-kind setup. You will not see another one like it on the road.

The rig is in excellent condition, with 53k+ miles on the bike, and less than 10,000 miles on the sidecar. (I ride primarily as a single.) That may sound like high miles, but the BMW Boxer motor has been proven to run well into the six digits with nothing more than regular maintenance. The Boxer motor and Getrag transmission are known for being over-built and, in this particular model, the motor is de-tuned to the point where it never works hard enough to break a sweat, making it a long-lasting affair. You should see many years of reliable and faithful service. I bought the bike and sidecar and had the two combined with the intention of keeping the setup indefinitely. After owning two sidecar rigs, I’ve managed to scratch my sidecar itch very well and am ready to move on to a new bike. Unfortunately, due to finances I am forced to sell the rig in order to cover the cost of a new ride. I suppose that’s good news to you.

First, let me say that I think the C is the perfect bike for a sidecar, especially a big and heavy-metal sidecar like the TR 500, which is Steib’s biggest touring car. While not fast, the de-tuned Boxer motor is a torque monster that pulls… and keeps on pulling. You will not win races, but you’ll happily cruise on flat or steep inclines without complaint. The extra-beefy BMW Telelever is well-suited to stabilizing the front end, coupled with the fact that the TR 500 has a very low center of gravity. As a result, the handling is excellent. It will cruise all day at 80mph with one hand on the bars, making it an excellent tourer. No wobble, no veering, no issues. A stable, high-speed ride is not true of many sidecars, particularly the Ural setups, one of which I used to own. On these rigs, the center of gravity is very high, and once you reach 50-60 mph it feels like you’re going to flip. This is never an issue with the TR 500, which hugs the ground and feels extremely planted at all speeds. The same stability holds true when flying the chair (when the car lifts on right-handers). Even without a passenger or any type of ballast, the car is well balanced and does not have the tendency to lift unless you intend to lift it (a technique you should learn as a hack driver for safety reasons alone). This means you can run corners faster and more safely.

The rig tracks straight and true. I set up the camber and toe-in properly when I bought the setup, and it has run smooth and straight ever since. Even better, the settings remain accurate when you dismount and re-mount the car, allowing you to ride single whenever you feel the urge, which I do frequently. There is no need to re-tune the settings as you would with many other sidecars. Also, none of the sidecar frame attachments get in the way of using the bike as a single. In fact, I ride the bike much more as a single (probably 80%), only taking out the car for the odd trip but mostly for family fun stuff, parades, etc.

Other than normal wear and tear for the miles, the bike and sidecar look and run perfectly. I broke the new engine in well, using dino oil to start and varying the revs for the first 600 miles, and then promptly had the oil and filter changed and the valves reset at the dealer. It has never used oil since. As a single, I have never wheelied the bike (as if; it’s a torquey, pulling pig!) and the bike and rig have never been off-road. Most of the miles are local, with a few extended highway trips. The rig is ready to take you across the country and back tomorrow, if you like.

I have to say the bike is in great shape and well-farkled thanks to Chromeheads.org, a website devoted to this particular bike. It’s your one-stop resource for everything C.

 

Here are the specs:

The bike
* 2002 R1200C, bought new at Blue Moon Cycle in Atlanta, Georgia in July of ’02. I am the original owner (I'll be 50 this year)
* Flashtone color (looks like shiny primer grey)
* 53,000+ miles (it’s still being ridden)
* Brembo brakes, with new pads front and back. Brakes in great shape, with no pulsing or weird noises
* anti-lock brake system (ABS)
* new rear brake rotor
* self-canceling turn signals
* always garaged (along with the sidecar)
* fresh Metzler Marathon ME 880 tires front and back; the back is in good shape; the front is in even better shape. Both have lots of life left
* 48k service completed
* after 53k miles, the stock suspension is still surprisingly plush. I usually leave the rear shock jacked to full preload (#7), which keeps the rear tight on rough roads and hot corners, and helps with passengers or loads. Both the front and rear springs do not have that compressed look you seen on worn springs
* Euro handlebars, with risers that have holes in them to accommodate the various BMW windshields
* unmounted stock BMW Easy Rider or “ape hanger” handlebars that came with bike, including mounts
* R1150GS black hand guards, with all mounting hardware. I modified these to fit on the Euro bars and have used them in cold weather and on extended trips. They look super dorky, but keep hands warmer in fall and early spring weather
* Rick Mayer seat that I bought lightly-used from a fellow C rider, and then had re-shaped and re-covered by Dianna, a local seatmaker. She put on thick and supple stitched black leather, with three different densities of foam underneath. It’s extremely comfortable. The seat is in excellent shape
* Extra BMW stock rider’s seat (blue)
* BMW black passenger comfort seat (the wide, comfy one), with color-matched Flashtone plastic rear cowling and all attachment hardware. I put it on and off at whim; I think the bike looks better without it, but passengers sure appreciate it. I have modified the seat, creating a small notched area in the front to accommodate the rider’s backrest. I did this by removing the leather, cutting away some of the seat pan and foam, and re-stapling the leather. This way, the passenger has a backrest and you do, too
* spare brand-new Flashtone rear cowling, with not cutouts
* two backrests, one original BMW flip-up (for the rider) and a Roman bracket fitted with a second BMW backrest (for passengers). The nice thing about the Roman bracket is that it’s forged, so you can reliably rest against it without fear of a mishap. I take both backrests on and off at will, depending on the setup. Unlike stock C setups, you can mount both backrests at the same time
* BMW grab rail, which I install when I remove the BMW comfort seat, cowling, and passenger backrest. I have all the attachment hardware, including the little chrome caps to cover the bolt heads
* BMW black leather saddlebags and mounting frame. Slight scuffing on the leather. Otherwise, a rich black with no color fading and in excellent shape. Bag locks work and are keyed to ignition key. Two “Bungie Buddies” bolted to lower corners of each bag provide hook points for securing loads on bike. Reflective stripes shaped expressly for these bags and applied to the ends and sides of the case. They are black (undetectable) during the day, and reflect bright white when light hits them at night
* BMW black leather Cruiser tank bag with attachment straps. I’ve added heavy fleece under the bag, adhered with contact cement, to prevent scuffing
* BMW black leather and clear-plastic Cruiser map holder, which straps either on top of the tank bag or directly to the strap that sits on the tank
* aftermarket Throttlemeister cruise control, with matching bar end on left grip
* aftermarket Harley-style (loud!) horn
* BMW Euro screen, in excellent condition, including all hardware. This is really a little fly screen; I love it and generally keep it on the bike because I like how it directs the wind upward and off my chest
* BMW Montana windshield with all hardware. A few scratches, but otherwise in excellent shape with no cracks
* BMW oval Cruiser mirrors instead of stock round ones, affording a clear and wider rear view
* newer, larger-diameter double-walled BMW chrome header pipes, replaced under warranty after the original headers started to discolor. Stock BMW mufflers and catalyst. The pipes and mufflers have some light scratches and small discolored blemishes, but otherwise are bright and polish up to a gleam
* BMW heat shields on mufflers
* Illium Sportboards rider’s floorboards, with Harley-style boards replacing the stock Illium boards, with all mounting hardware
* clear turn-signal lenses front and back
* BMW power outlet
* Pokey’s chrome oil-filler cap, with double gasket that seals better than the original BMW plug
* stock BMW spoked chrome wheels. The rear wheel has some slight scratches and small pitting around the inner rim, but no flaking and otherwise is in fine shape. The front is in excellent condition
* front and rear chrome hubcaps. In great shape; they clean up the look of the wheels
* Odyssey PC-680 drycell battery. Awesome; plenty of power; no issues starting the bike
* Fender Extender on back of front fender
* a few genuine BMW blue-and-white roundels added to the bike in various spots, including one centered on the trunk of the sidecar. Oh, and a very cool stealth “graphite” roundel stuck to the forward side of the rider’s backrest post
* BMW tool kit, with all original tools and accessories
* spare alternator belt
* I had BMW install the “high idle relay” (part #1 61-36-8-366-282) at the first 600-mile service because the bike was sometimes stalling at off-throttle, especially at idle. This stopped all stalling; no problems since
* oil change and filter every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Once the engine was properly broken in at 20k miles, I switched to synthetic, which smoothed out the transmission. However, at around 36k I went back to dino oil because I’m not convinced synthetic does much at this point other than raise your maintenance costs. Going back to dino oil hasn’t made a difference to the shifting or the general running of the bike. The bike does not use oil
* all regularly-scheduled BMW services, as well as any maintenance requiring Motronic work, has been done by BMW dealers in my area while the bike was under warranty (Blue Moon; Touring Sport; Carolina BMW). After 36k miles, I’ve had a few local mechanics do basic work (valves; spark plugs; oil and filter/crush washer changes; brake pads; tires) and I myself have replaced plugs; oil/filter/washer; brake pads; tires a few times
* new clutch at 48k miles. This is the third clutch; the first one wore at 24k miles
* original tear-drop ignition key, as well as three spare keys
* Wudo centerstand, which is superior to the BMW stand. Fits in saddlebag to take on trips, and is useful for working on the bike or when mounting and dismounting the sidecar
* BMW Flashtone touch-up paint and touch-up clear coat
* BMW service booklet; BMW operator’s booklet
* I have all records of maintenance stamped in the BMW service booklet, plus a hefty folder full of receipts for work done, as well as all the farkle-buy receipts, and would be happy to pass this stuff along if desired
* bought with cash when new; title in hand

 

The sidecar
* 2002 Steib TR 500, bought at Blue Moon Cycle in ’02 when I bought the bike. The TR 500 is made by Ideal Motorcycle and Sidecar in Berlin, Germany, a factory that makes Steibs today using the same patterns from the originals. (You can swap parts from older Steibs if you ever need to)
* less than 10,000 miles (I put most of the miles on the bike as a single)
* painted, clear-coated and BMW double pin-striped to match the Flashtone bike color by Blue Moon. The pin stripes are not clear-coated, and are worn a bit in a few areas, but not to the point of looking at all funky; just a few missing areas
* spoked chrome wheel with original Steib spinner, fitted with Metzler Marathon ME 880 tube tire. Tire is in great shape with lots of tread life
* brand-new spare metric radial 165R15 car tire (fits Cruiser rear wheel; had planned on buying extra rear wheel for mounting tire, and then using setup when running the sidecar)
* leaf spring suspension, Steib’s strongest and smoothest suspension
* Steib sidecar frame and custom frame (fabricated by Blue Moon) on bike. The frames have four attachment points, plus an electrical plug (for front and rear running lights) and a steering damper
* brand-new spare damper
* fender running lights, front (white) and back (red). These are made of cut glass, not plastic
* vinyl seat with white pinstriping in excellent shape; very comfy, and can easily be removed if you want to haul big stuff
* large trunk with locking latches. Uses a separate key from the bike’s ignition key; one original and one spare key. Proven waterproof
* Steib folding windscreen with skirt, or apron. The shield and skirt are in great shape, with a few light scratches on the plastic screen, but nothing noticeable. Easy to mount and folds forward for passenger access. I removed the original red (ugly) paint on the aluminum trim piece and painted it grey
* tonneau cover, in great shape. The cover and the windshield skirt are Mercedes cloth, which does an admirable job keeping out the weather with its cloth-like interior and vinyl exterior. I had a seamstress remove the red (ugly) piping and replace it with stitched black piping. The tonneau snaps onto grommets installed on the car, and works with or without the windshield in place to seal the interior. I keep it rolled up in the trunk in case of inclement weather or to hide stuff when parked in the city
* the sidecar can be dismounted in about 20 min. by yourself, and re-mounted in about 40 min. by yourself once you get the knack (with a helper, cut that down to 15 min. and 25 min., respectively). I have a shop-made plywood box-beam that supports the car during the changeover, and also supports the car while it’s off the bike. The beam goes with the rig

Below is a list of blemishes. They are all cosmetic and do not affect the running of the rig. I’m simply trying to be up front with the bike’s condition, pointing out any and all flaws so no one is surprised or disappointed.

* normal wear and tear on the bike for the miles. A few stone chips on the front fender; some small scratches and rub marks here and there; some small dents; but nothing noticeable unless you look closely. The top of the tank has some rub marks where the BMW tank bag rubbed before I fitted the underside of the bag with fleece, and around the thigh areas. Otherwise, the paint on the bike is clean and the clear topcoat is glossy
* normal wear and tear on the sidecar. A few small stone chips on the underside of the nose (not visible unless you look underneath) and a few on the leading edge of the fender, plus a few small dents on the fender. There’s some wearing of the pin-striping on the sidecar (1/4-in.-long areas). Like the bike, the paint is bright and clean, and the topcoat is glossy
* a small, 1/4-in. tear on one of the vinyl armrests in the sidecar, covered with a square of black electrical tape
* scratches on the underside of the left chrome valve cover (from dropping the bike while stationary). They are not visible unless you scoot down to look
* scratches under rider pegs and under the muffler guards from road contact during cornering. No harm, no foul. You cannot see them unless you scoot even lower
* slight scuffing and a few scratches on the mufflers that won’t buff out, but overall the pipes are in great shape
* a few scar marks on the handlebars from the bolts where I’ve mounted and dismounted the GS hand guards. Not very noticeable
* three small paint chips on the dashboard between the speedo and the idiot lights, each about 1/16 in. in diameter and resulting from (I’m guessing) an errant wrench’s wrench during routine service
* slight scuff marks on the bike’s silver frame
* 1/2-in. scuff marks on the Telelever where some tank panniers rubbed
* two small holes drilled through the rear fender trim piece to accommodate bolts for the Roman bracket
* there are a few stickers on the bike here and there. All of them can be removed without damage to the paint. The AVL stickers on the tank and the back of the sidecar simply peel off
* I’ve never inspected the bike (thank you for your continued support, Carolina cops) because I didn’t want an ugly sticker on the bike. (Yeah; I’m that fussy.)


—Andy, aka Bmrdad @ Chromeheads.org and ADVrider.com

 

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