Who wants CCT's

[Truckinduc]

So im thinking about making a run of manual CCT's.





Here is a picture of mine Ive made for my bike.



Price is 70$ plus shipping.

This price includes the 2 stainless steel bolts, 4 nuts, one welded to the end of each bolt, and 2 gaskets.


Who is interested?

[Truckinduc]

[Truckinduc]

[Truckinduc]

[FL02SupaHawk996]

Dang it, I know I souldda waited before ordering new gaskets

Good luck bro they look better than the ones I have and I paid over $100!
RC

[Slim]

You'd be doing everyone a big favor by counter-boring the attaching bolt holes. Trust me - been there, done that.

[Truckinduc]

ok. whats your reasoning behind that though?

[Slim]

It's easier to set the lock nut. With the bolt heads sticking out like you have in those pics it's not as easy to get an open end wrench on that lock nut. With the heads recessed, below the outer face of the block, you can do so easily.

Also keep in mind that most people won't have the engine out of their bike, so this feature would really help since there's a bike in the way of making life easy. It's one thing to angle a wrench when you have all the room in the world - when there's a bike in the way you usually just curse and swear.

I speak from experience. I built a pair for myself (i'm a machinist) and learned the hard way. Just trying to help you make a better product, not only for yourself, but for your customers.

[Truckinduc]

Now it makes perfect sense.

Alright, Ill do that from now on. I have to get a special bit.

Im making mine with a band saw, lathe and drill press.

[Slim]

That's the best way to do it, man. The KISS principle is worth it's weight in gold.

Knowing this i'd strongly recommend using a counterboring bit, what's meant for the job. Please avoid doing a hack job and grinding the tip of a larger diameter drill flat. This can easily result in injury and/or scrap parts. I would also not recommend using an endmill for like reasons.

Before you go too nuts, though, double check how far you can screw those mounting bolts into the heads. If the bolts won't screw into the heads much farther then you might have to use a thicker place to start with before you can do this (counterbore).

[Moto Man]

I'd take a pair. Rather have them plain metal though or possibly yellow.

[Truckinduc]

Originally Posted by Slim

That's the best way to do it, man. The KISS principle is worth it's weight in gold.

Knowing this i'd strongly recommend using a counterboring bit, what's meant for the job. Please avoid doing a hack job and grinding the tip of a larger diameter drill flat. This can easily result in injury and/or scrap parts. I would also not recommend using an endmill for like reasons.

Before you go too nuts, though, double check how far you can screw those mounting bolts into the heads. If the bolts won't screw into the heads much farther then you might have to use a thicker place to start with before you can do this (counterbore).

Yes the bolts have about 1/4 inch shank. Im using 3/4 inch aluminum, but in turning them down on the lathe so there is a part that actually fits snugly in the head.

Even if I cant recess the head of the allen bolt completely, every little bit helps.

[Truckinduc]

Originally Posted by Moto Man

I'd take a pair. Rather have them plain metal though or possibly yellow.

raw aluminum is fine with me. You can paint them yourself if you prefer.

[Truckinduc]

If enough people want them I might get some yellow and black ceramic paint along with the red and offer different colors.

[captainchaos]

That's badass bro, you do some really nice work

[pzurek18]

i would take a pair, in either black or red.
So these are the same things as the APE ccts besides their just homemade?

sorry about the dumb question

[lazn]

Something else that might also improve the product.. Later APE's included a o-ring below the loose nut to prevent oil weeping out through the threads. It just get squished, nothing fancy.. but keeps the engine clean.

[Truckinduc]

you are correct.

Im down on my luck lately and need to pay some medical bills so I figure why not.

They function 100% like the ape's do.

[Truckinduc]

Originally Posted by lazn

Something else that might also improve the product.. Later APE's included a o-ring below the loose nut to prevent oil weeping out through the threads. It just get squished, nothing fancy.. but keeps the engine clean.

I can do that too, good suggestion.

[pzurek18]

Well ya then if you said they work exactly and its 70$ shipped, i will definitley be interested in getting a pair for myself.

Thanks,
Pawel

[LineArrayNut]

count me in for the blue ones, lol! seriously, take paypal?

[nothing]

i may be in, how do these actually work?

[Tweety]

Originally Posted by nothing

i may be in, how do these actually work?

You set the tension by threading the bolt in/out, and then lock it in place with the inner nut... The outer nut is just to make it easier turning the nut...

[nothing]

hmm, how do i know how much tension to put on the cam chain? my luck i'd tighten it too much and first start up things would go snap

[Tweety]

You start of by getting it fingertight (no tools) and start up the bike to idle... DO NOT REV!... then fiddle until it's as quiet as possible...

Then lock the nut and go for a warm-up ride... Once fully warmed up, you do the same routine...

The end result is that you get it right at operating temps, it will make a little noise when the bike is warming up...

I thing the consensus was that it was fully fingertight, then back of one turn... I wasn't that scientific... I did it by ear and feel...

[Stevebis1]

Count me in for a set too. Do you need a certain number before you make them?

[Syclone]

I'm in for a set

[Stevebis1]

Just took a closer look at the APE. Does anyone think there may be a hardness spec for the tensioner bolt? I'm just thinking what this might look like after 10k or 20k miles for the cam chain rubbing on it. Is a stainless bolt already that hard so there is no worry?

[inderocker]

Originally Posted by Stevebis1

Just took a closer look at the APE. Does anyone think there may be a hardness spec for the tensioner bolt? I'm just thinking what this might look like after 10k or 20k miles for the cam chain rubbing on it. Is a stainless bolt already that hard so there is no worry?

The chain is running on a guide and will never touch the bolt.

[Truckinduc]

The head of the stainless bolt comes in contact with a steel insert in the cam chain guide. Nothing that touches the bolt really moves.

Ill take a pic of what I mean.

I would like to have people interested in 10 sets before I start to make them.