Who wants CCT's
02-10-2009, 03:25 PM
#1
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SuperBike
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,033
Who wants CCT's
So im thinking about making a run of manual CCT's.
Here is a picture of mine Ive made for my bike.
Price is 70$ plus shipping.
This price includes the 2 stainless steel bolts, 4 nuts, one welded to the end of each bolt, and 2 gaskets.
Who is interested?
Here is a picture of mine Ive made for my bike.
Price is 70$ plus shipping.
This price includes the 2 stainless steel bolts, 4 nuts, one welded to the end of each bolt, and 2 gaskets.
Who is interested?
Last edited by Truckinduc; 03-08-2009 at 06:29 PM.
02-10-2009, 05:13 PM
#8
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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It's easier to set the lock nut. With the bolt heads sticking out like you have in those pics it's not as easy to get an open end wrench on that lock nut. With the heads recessed, below the outer face of the block, you can do so easily.
Also keep in mind that most people won't have the engine out of their bike, so this feature would really help since there's a bike in the way of making life easy. It's one thing to angle a wrench when you have all the room in the world - when there's a bike in the way you usually just curse and swear.
I speak from experience. I built a pair for myself (i'm a machinist) and learned the hard way. Just trying to help you make a better product, not only for yourself, but for your customers.
Also keep in mind that most people won't have the engine out of their bike, so this feature would really help since there's a bike in the way of making life easy. It's one thing to angle a wrench when you have all the room in the world - when there's a bike in the way you usually just curse and swear.
I speak from experience. I built a pair for myself (i'm a machinist) and learned the hard way. Just trying to help you make a better product, not only for yourself, but for your customers.
02-10-2009, 05:33 PM
#10
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That's the best way to do it, man. The KISS principle is worth it's weight in gold.
Knowing this i'd strongly recommend using a counterboring bit, what's meant for the job. Please avoid doing a hack job and grinding the tip of a larger diameter drill flat. This can easily result in injury and/or scrap parts. I would also not recommend using an endmill for like reasons.
Before you go too nuts, though, double check how far you can screw those mounting bolts into the heads. If the bolts won't screw into the heads much farther then you might have to use a thicker place to start with before you can do this (counterbore).
Knowing this i'd strongly recommend using a counterboring bit, what's meant for the job. Please avoid doing a hack job and grinding the tip of a larger diameter drill flat. This can easily result in injury and/or scrap parts. I would also not recommend using an endmill for like reasons.
Before you go too nuts, though, double check how far you can screw those mounting bolts into the heads. If the bolts won't screw into the heads much farther then you might have to use a thicker place to start with before you can do this (counterbore).
02-10-2009, 05:52 PM
#12
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That's the best way to do it, man. The KISS principle is worth it's weight in gold.
Knowing this i'd strongly recommend using a counterboring bit, what's meant for the job. Please avoid doing a hack job and grinding the tip of a larger diameter drill flat. This can easily result in injury and/or scrap parts. I would also not recommend using an endmill for like reasons.
Before you go too nuts, though, double check how far you can screw those mounting bolts into the heads. If the bolts won't screw into the heads much farther then you might have to use a thicker place to start with before you can do this (counterbore).
Knowing this i'd strongly recommend using a counterboring bit, what's meant for the job. Please avoid doing a hack job and grinding the tip of a larger diameter drill flat. This can easily result in injury and/or scrap parts. I would also not recommend using an endmill for like reasons.
Before you go too nuts, though, double check how far you can screw those mounting bolts into the heads. If the bolts won't screw into the heads much farther then you might have to use a thicker place to start with before you can do this (counterbore).
Even if I cant recess the head of the allen bolt completely, every little bit helps.
02-10-2009, 09:22 PM
#17
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Something else that might also improve the product.. Later APE's included a o-ring below the loose nut to prevent oil weeping out through the threads. It just get squished, nothing fancy.. but keeps the engine clean.
02-10-2009, 09:24 PM
#19
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02-11-2009, 04:51 AM
#23
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02-11-2009, 05:19 AM
#25
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You start of by getting it fingertight (no tools) and start up the bike to idle... DO NOT REV!... then fiddle until it's as quiet as possible...
Then lock the nut and go for a warm-up ride... Once fully warmed up, you do the same routine...
The end result is that you get it right at operating temps, it will make a little noise when the bike is warming up...
I thing the consensus was that it was fully fingertight, then back of one turn... I wasn't that scientific... I did it by ear and feel...
Then lock the nut and go for a warm-up ride... Once fully warmed up, you do the same routine...
The end result is that you get it right at operating temps, it will make a little noise when the bike is warming up...
I thing the consensus was that it was fully fingertight, then back of one turn... I wasn't that scientific... I did it by ear and feel...
Last edited by Tweety; 02-11-2009 at 05:29 AM.
02-11-2009, 08:27 AM
#28
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Just took a closer look at the APE. Does anyone think there may be a hardness spec for the tensioner bolt? I'm just thinking what this might look like after 10k or 20k miles for the cam chain rubbing on it. Is a stainless bolt already that hard so there is no worry?
02-11-2009, 08:53 AM
#29
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The chain is running on a guide and will never touch the bolt.
02-11-2009, 08:56 AM
#30
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The head of the stainless bolt comes in contact with a steel insert in the cam chain guide. Nothing that touches the bolt really moves.
Ill take a pic of what I mean.
I would like to have people interested in 10 sets before I start to make them.
Ill take a pic of what I mean.
I would like to have people interested in 10 sets before I start to make them.
